Charging Batteries

[Claycousins]

I am thinking about getting 2 VMAX batteries ( VSG-12 100 ah) - it had built in converter for solar panels- however if I am using my 3 stage converter in my NOBO 19.6 ... I was thinking disconnect and use a 8 stage charger is better... I am trying to contact VMAX and see if I can use both converters at the same time if you using solar panels [emoji2]

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Claycousins

I am thinking about getting 2 VMAX batteries ( VSG-12 100 ah) - it had built in converter for solar panels- however if I am using my 3 stage converter in my NOBO 19.6 ... I was thinking disconnect and use a 8 stage charger is better... I am trying to contact VMAX and see if I can use both converters at the same time if you using solar panels [emoji2]

8 stage chargers don't really do more than regular 3-4 stage chargers. Things like "detecting battery type" and such are included in the 8 stages.

Stages that do anything meaningful on charges are Bulk, Absorbtion, and Float. Add equalization/desulfation if you want but most chargers don't run a high enough voltage to really do a good job of equalization or desulfation.

The number of stages is mostly marketing hype.

[Claycousins]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

8 stage chargers don't really do more than regular 3-4 stage chargers. Things like "detecting battery type" and such are included in the 8 stages.



Stages that do anything meaningful on charges are Bulk, Absorbtion, and Float. Add equalization/desulfation if you want but most chargers don't run a high enough voltage to really do a good job of equalization or desulfation.



The number of stages is mostly marketing hype.

Thanks for your reply

[tomkatb]

What are yo trying to accomplish?

In general 2 6 volt batteries are more durable than 12 volt ones. take more abuse. longer life generally. The problem is bigger more powerful batteries are heavier and 6 volt are taller.

Converters are what you have. Basically an ac to dc device for charging the batteries. In a small set up a bigger fancier one likely will do little for you. Ditto Titanmike.

After installing bigger batteries I would install a good battery monitor. You will better understand your needs. A step in making a good plan.

Install a 12 volt outlet in the trailer and buy an inexpensive inverted to plug into it for infrequent use. What we use.

If you have greater need for 110 volt ac then an inverter of 2000 watts is a plan. It can deplete a battery in an hour. Got to plan.

You also have to address recharging the battery set. We plug in literally always. So, solar would do little for us. Does nothing for air conditioning. In the Midwest rain, clouds and trees are the enemy. You need the right number of panels and a controller to charge the batteries.

I was all ready to buy a good inverter and panels but, did not.

We carry a Honda 2200 for emergencies. With our battery bank we can go 2-3 days without recharging. 430 amps.

[Claycousins]

Originally Posted by tomkatb

What are yo trying to accomplish?



In general 2 6 volt batteries are more durable than 12 volt ones. take more abuse. longer life generally. The problem is bigger more powerful batteries are heavier and 6 volt are taller.



Converters are what you have. Basically an ac to dc device for charging the batteries. In a small set up a bigger fancier one likely will do little for you. Ditto Titanmike.



After installing bigger batteries I would install a good battery monitor. You will better understand your needs. A step in making a good plan.



Install a 12 volt outlet in the trailer and buy an inexpensive inverted to plug into it for infrequent use. What we use.



If you have greater need for 110 volt ac then an inverter of 2000 watts is a plan. It can deplete a battery in an hour. Got to plan.



You also have to address recharging the battery set. We plug in literally always. So, solar would do little for us. Does nothing for air conditioning. In the Midwest rain, clouds and trees are the enemy. You need the right number of panels and a controller to charge the batteries.



I was all ready to buy a good inverter and panels but, did not.



We carry a Honda 2200 for emergencies. With our battery bank we can go 2-3 days without recharging. 430 amps.

Thanks very much for the reply- so I will just let my onboard WFCO charge my batteries [emoji736] instead of getting a 8 stage ... then when boondocking I can use the VMAX built in converter for solar panels [emoji736] ... now I am wondering if I can have a Solar panel connected to each battery while wired it parallel connected to my NOBO- hnmm [emoji2] ... no worries I have a Champion dual fuel inverter for emergencies

[pgandw]

Originally Posted by Claycousins

Thanks very much for the reply- so I will just let my onboard WFCO charge my batteries [emoji736] instead of getting a 8 stage ... then when boondocking I can use the VMAX built in converter for solar panels [emoji736] ... now I am wondering if I can have a Solar panel connected to each battery while wired it parallel connected to my NOBO- hnmm [emoji2] ... no worries I have a Champion dual fuel inverter for emergencies

The WFCO, if working correctly (I do recommend verifying output voltages with a voltmeter), is fine for all situations EXCEPT trying to recharge batteries from a generator in minimal time. There, the WFCO reluctance to go to bulk mode slows down the battery recharging.

Fred W

[Claycousins]

Originally Posted by pgandw

The WFCO, if working correctly (I do recommend verifying output voltages with a voltmeter), is fine for all situations EXCEPT trying to recharge batteries from a generator in minimal time. There, the WFCO reluctance to go to bulk mode slows down the battery recharging.

Fred W

Thanks very much

[Jeffjeeptj]

I will fully agree with pgandw about the WFCO being slow to recharge. AGMs like being charged at 14.6/14.7 volts, far better than 13.6.
I replaced the converter portion with an IOTA DLS-55 with an IQ-AGM dongle. It fit nicely into the space in the WFCO panel, even using one of the converter mounting screws. I included a female cord cap so I did not cut off the male cord end from the IOTA to allow for future flexibility. The green light on the left is the dongle indicator lamp (which I ignore after first cycle). The orange wire on the left is the 110V power cord for connecting the DLS to the 110V circuit breaker in the WFCO panel.
The beauty of the IOTA is they have a LiFePO4 dongle if decide to change to Lithium batteries. I have used IOTA converters since 2003 with no issues.

Do NOT buy the DLS-nn-X, as the dongles do not work.

[Claycousins]

Originally Posted by Jeffjeeptj

I will fully agree with pgandw about the WFCO being slow to recharge. AGMs like being charged at 14.6/14.7 volts, far better than 13.6.

I replaced the converter portion with an IOTA DLS-55 with an IQ-AGM dongle. It fit nicely into the space in the WFCO panel, even using one of the converter mounting screws. I included a female cord cap so I did not cut off the male cord end from the IOTA to allow for future flexibility. The green light on the left is the dongle indicator lamp (which I ignore after first cycle). The orange wire on the left is the 110V power cord for connecting the DLS to the 110V circuit breaker in the WFCO panel.

The beauty of the IOTA is they have a LiFePO4 dongle if decide to change to Lithium batteries. I have used IOTA converters since 2003 with no issues.



Do NOT buy the DLS-nn-X, as the dongles do not work.

Thanks very much and that is very interesting [emoji2]