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Old 01-23-2016, 10:54 AM   #101
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Yea, I'm sure that's a typo, (10,000)
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:08 AM   #102
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yes that was a typo 10,000' camping just outside of the town of Tin Cup. I did get the high altitude jet, but never needed it. Still running on the original spark plug. I was sure it would run rich and would have to change the jet. My son and a good friend of mine both have the 3100 Watt Power House generators and they did not have to rejet.
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:51 PM   #103
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I have used a little 900 watt gen to plug in a regular 3 stage battery charger hooked directly to the battery. Charged up in short time.
Thanks, About how long did you run it daily?
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Old 01-23-2016, 08:51 PM   #104
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We ran it an hour or so mid day and 3-4 hours in the evening to charge up, cook, shower, watch a movie or ballgame. So maybe 4-5 hours total. But we're dry camping in the woods with no neighbors. Not sure how long til full charge but battery cycles furnace all night.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:24 PM   #105
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Appreciate the info, one thing I forgot to ask you, How many batteries were you using? two? thanks.
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:57 PM   #106
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Just the one original 12v that came with the rockwood. And remember, I had a 12v charger (from my boat) hooked directly to the battety. 15 amp.
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Old 01-24-2016, 03:09 AM   #107
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yes that was a typo 10,000' camping just outside of the town of Tin Cup. I did get the high altitude jet, but never needed it. Still running on the original spark plug. I was sure it would run rich and would have to change the jet. My son and a good friend of mine both have the 3100 Watt Power House generators and they did not have to rejet.
Shhhh, please don't mention this camping area again. I practically live in Taylor Park during the summer months and camp along the river that runs from Mirror Lake to Tin Cup.

I fouled my Boliy's spark arrester screen at Tin Cup. We run our generator about 3-4 hours in the morning and 3-4 hours in the evening. Our setup was less than ideal at the time and it took "forever" to top of the batteries.

I can't think of a single night where we didn't run the heat at Tin Cup even in the hottest months of summer!

I usually visit TinCup a couple of times during the winter via snowmobile and leave a winter note at Jessie and Cynthia's place-they sell BBQ across from Frenchy's Cafe.

Wife and I are always looking to meet other campers and ATV'ers...give me a shout next summer!
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Old 01-24-2016, 02:15 PM   #108
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When we were there last year in July the first morning we got up and it was 32 degrees and the next it was 30 degrees. So we ran the heater and had to run the generator to keep the battery charged. We will be going again this year in July or August.
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Old 01-24-2016, 02:49 PM   #109
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Like has been pointed out, a 1000W genset running a 50Amp charger would be efficient, but having one dedicated to charging only might not be such a good idea.

What most folks do not consider is that it is the voltage that pushes the charge, no matter the max amps, and most chargers that come with our units simply do not keep the voltage high enough; long enough... if charging in the least time is the goal. And, if making the batteries last is important to you.

Not to mention the wire from the factory charger to the battery might be to light a gauge for the length of the run.

If you don't have a good charger that keeps the voltage higher longer, I would suggest getting one; IOTA makes one and the ideal is an good Inverter / charger such as a Magnum. I have two 230AH 6 volts batteries and am going to four and will need both a good charger and why not go with a good Inverter that has a good charger (temperature sensing, adjustable for various battery types) for times when you don't have to drag out the gen set and / or appreciate quiet.

Like many have said, the TV hot wire to the camper has too much loss due to its length and is nearly useless; but you could turn the truck around and use jumper cables in an emergency, but running the big engine for the time needed, would be a terrible waste of dollars.
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Old 01-24-2016, 04:39 PM   #110
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Light gauge wire and distance to batteries fromm converter is what caused my system to take forever to charge the batteries in my last camper. I have a 2/0 gauge wire run in parallel with the factory wire (6 gauge I think) to reduce voltage loss from my 2 batteries in front of the camper-these are for emergency use only and are charged with factory converter.

Using 2/0 gauge wire with main battery banks in rear of camper that are wired with 2/0 wire and inverter/converter and batteries are all within 3 feet of each other.
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Old 01-24-2016, 07:01 PM   #111
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Like has been pointed out, a 1000W genset running a 50Amp charger would be efficient, but having one dedicated to charging only might not be such a good idea.

What most folks do not consider is that it is the voltage that pushes the charge, no matter the max amps, and most chargers that come with our units simply do not keep the voltage high enough; long enough... if charging in the least time is the goal. And, if making the batteries last is important to you.

Not to mention the wire from the factory charger to the battery might be to light a gauge for the length of the run.

If you don't have a good charger that keeps the voltage higher longer, I would suggest getting one; IOTA makes one and the ideal is an good Inverter / charger such as a Magnum. I have two 230AH 6 volts batteries and am going to four and will need both a good charger and why not go with a good Inverter that has a good charger (temperature sensing, adjustable for various battery types) for times when you don't have to drag out the gen set and / or appreciate quiet.

Like many have said, the TV hot wire to the camper has too much loss due to its length and is nearly useless; but you could turn the truck around and use jumper cables in an emergency, but running the big engine for the time needed, would be a terrible waste of dollars.
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Exactly the problem I have but didn't know it. All my chargers including the RV top out at about 3.6 volts, so the charger drops the amps going in to stay at 13.6 v. Even a 30 amp Schmacher will back off at 13.6 volts and you are stuck waiting hours because it's dropped down to 2 amps or less.

I looked at Iota but they all seem to be limited to 13.6 volts also. If you have model that will go to 14.8 or better, I'd appreciate your feedback.

thanks for the post, very helpful.
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Old 01-24-2016, 07:17 PM   #112
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I looked at Iota but they all seem to be limited to 13.6 volts also. If you have model that will go to 14.8 or better, I'd appreciate your feedback.



thanks for the post, very helpful.

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Old 01-24-2016, 07:25 PM   #113
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I looked at Iota but they all seem to be limited to 13.6 volts also. If you have model that will go to 14.8 or better, I'd appreciate your feedback.
That's wrong TT.... the IOTA DLS series is a single stage charger UNTIL you add their plug in module called the IQ4 Smart Controller. This can be added to any old or new DLS converter/charger they make OR you can buy the converter with it built in...you can read all about it at the link but for those who like it brief:

The IQ4 Charge Controller allows the DLS Series battery charger to operate as an automatic 4-Stage "Smart Charger," delivering the charge your battery needs at the time it needs it. The IQ4 uses four different charging modes to keep your battery in peak condition...

BULK STAGE The Bulk Stage of the IQ4 allows the batteries to be charged from the full rated output of the charger (for example, a 12V charger will charge at a maximum of 14.8V). This increased charging period reduces the overall charging time of the battery.

ABSORPTION STAGE After the Bulk Stage, the IQ4 then moves to the Absorption Stage (14.2V for a 12V battery). This mode will continue for up to 480 minutes (8 hours) to ensure that the battery receives a complete charge.

FLOAT STAGE During the Float Stage, the IQ4 reduces the DLS charge voltage. This reduced voltage maintains the full charge while minimizing 'gassing' of the battery. The IQ4's float stage prevents boiling and bulging of the battery caused when the battery is exposed to higher charging voltages for too long.

EQUALIZATION STAGE If the batteries remain in a "float stage" for a seven-day period, the IQ4 will switch the DLS charger into a pre-programmed Equalization Stage. This protects the life of your battery by dissolving any sulfate layer on the battery's internal plates and avoids stratification that can occur when a battery has not been in use for extended periods.

http://www.iotaengineering.com/iq.htm

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Old 01-24-2016, 08:22 PM   #114
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That's wrong TT.... the IOTA DLS series is a single stage charger UNTIL you add their plug in module called the IQ4 Smart Controller. This can be added to any old or new DLS converter/charger they make OR you can buy the converter with it built in...you can read all about it at the link but for those who like it brief:

The IQ4 Charge Controller allows the DLS Series battery charger to operate as an automatic 4-Stage "Smart Charger," delivering the charge your battery needs at the time it needs it. The IQ4 uses four different charging modes to keep your battery in peak condition...

BULK STAGE The Bulk Stage of the IQ4 allows the batteries to be charged from the full rated output of the charger (for example, a 12V charger will charge at a maximum of 14.8V). This increased charging period reduces the overall charging time of the battery.

ABSORPTION STAGE After the Bulk Stage, the IQ4 then moves to the Absorption Stage (14.2V for a 12V battery). This mode will continue for up to 480 minutes (8 hours) to ensure that the battery receives a complete charge.

FLOAT STAGE During the Float Stage, the IQ4 reduces the DLS charge voltage. This reduced voltage maintains the full charge while minimizing 'gassing' of the battery. The IQ4's float stage prevents boiling and bulging of the battery caused when the battery is exposed to higher charging voltages for too long.

EQUALIZATION STAGE If the batteries remain in a "float stage" for a seven-day period, the IQ4 will switch the DLS charger into a pre-programmed Equalization Stage. This protects the life of your battery by dissolving any sulfate layer on the battery's internal plates and avoids stratification that can occur when a battery has not been in use for extended periods.

IOTA Product Specifications

So the do I need the IQ4 if all i want is bulk mode? Bulk stage, that's what I'm looking for. thanks. 14.8 volts till I check the hydrometer and call it good.
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:37 PM   #115
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So the do I need the IQ4 if all i want is bulk mode? Bulk stage, that's what I'm looking for. thanks. 14.8 volts till I check the hydrometer and call it good.

You are going to check the battery with a hydrometer, during each and every charge???


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Old 01-24-2016, 08:50 PM   #116
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That's my plan. My thoughts is to run gennie the minimum time so I want max output from whatever charger I use while the gennie running. I don't want a smart charger that will tapper the current as voltage increases. Am I screwed up?
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:46 PM   #117
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. Am I screwed up?

Maybe !!! Lol. Jk.

Seems like a ton of work.

Just put some panels on the roof, magnum inverter/charger. Sit back and enjoy.


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Old 01-24-2016, 09:46 PM   #118
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That's my plan. My thoughts is to run gennie the minimum time so I want max output from whatever charger I use while the gennie running. I don't want a smart charger that will tapper the current as voltage increases. Am I screwed up?
TT...trust the engineers at IOTA and spend the extra $20 bucks for the smart charging.

But to answer your question...NO...if you COULD buy a charger that would just deliver 14.8 and constantly check every cell in both batteries you can achieve a full charge in the shortest time at 14.8V.
Of course you must also monitor battery temperature if you try pushing this hard for the full charge cycle. Case must not go over 120 degrees and you need to refill the distilled water that will boil off at 14.8.
I don't know anyone who does this....and not being religious about it would shorten the life of the battery and/or risk other damage. Which is probably why you can't buy one at this level as the mfrs. wouldn't want the risk.


Furthermore....what will maintain the battery at 100% safely? (13.2V) What will EQ the battery?(15.5V)
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:04 PM   #119
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TT...trust the engineers at IOTA and spend the extra $20 bucks for the smart charging.

But to answer your question...NO...if you COULD buy a charger that would just deliver 14.8 and constantly check every cell in both batteries you can achieve a full charge in the shortest time at 14.8V.
Of course you must also monitor battery temperature if you try pushing this hard for the full charge cycle. Case must not go over 120 degrees and you need to refill the distilled water that will boil off at 14.8.
I don't know anyone who does this....and not being religious about it would shorten the life of the battery and/or risk other damage. Which is probably why you can't buy one at this level as the mfrs. wouldn't want the risk.


Furthermore....what will maintain the battery at 100% safely? (13.2V) What will EQ the battery?(15.5V)

Yes, I see your point. That would be impractical especially in the field and probably dangerous.
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:07 PM   #120
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Maybe !!! Lol. Jk.

Seems like a ton of work.

Just put some panels on the roof, magnum inverter/charger. Sit back and enjoy.


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Solar would be great and I would like to do that eventually. I'm considering purchasing a portable solar charge. What do you do when you are under the trees, do you get some charging?
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