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06-24-2024, 03:50 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2023
Posts: 6
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Cherokee 243TR batteries not charging
On a weekend trip on the second day, the Everchill 12v Fridge/Freezer died. Thought it was something with the fridge. Was connected to shore power, it was working when I got there, and everything else 12v/120v was working as far as I could tell.
Unplugged from shore power to head home the next day and- aha- batteries were down to 4.6 volts. So, dead batteries causing a disruption in 12v to the fridge?
Got home to disconnect and fridge was nice and cold but batteries were still at 4.6 (presumably truck was running fridge on the drive.
On a side note, I also noted that the solar charge control screen was blank during the trip- don't know if that is related.
Of course, first step is I will check the batteries, but what else could cause this? I have electrical troubleshooting experience, but dont' understand the system enought to put it all together.
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06-24-2024, 04:05 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 2,904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arullo123
On a weekend trip on the second day, the Everchill 12v Fridge/Freezer died. Thought it was something with the fridge. Was connected to shore power, it was working when I got there, and everything else 12v/120v was working as far as I could tell.
Unplugged from shore power to head home the next day and- aha- batteries were down to 4.6 volts. So, dead batteries causing a disruption in 12v to the fridge?
Got home to disconnect and fridge was nice and cold but batteries were still at 4.6 (presumably truck was running fridge on the drive.
On a side note, I also noted that the solar charge control screen was blank during the trip- don't know if that is related.
Of course, first step is I will check the batteries, but what else could cause this? I have electrical troubleshooting experience, but dont' understand the system enought to put it all together.
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Likely the batteries measuring 4.6 volts, are toast and may no longer hold a charge. As to the solar panel display being blank, depending on how the solar system is installed wired, and switched, it may or may not charge the batteries. And being blank, 4.6 volts is likely too low for the solar panel to display any status. If the battery switch is OFF, there is likely no voltage to the panel.
During camping, was the battery switch ON? If not then with shore power the converter was running the refrigerator and not charging the battery. Thats normal. And during the trip home, the charge line from the tow vehicle was running the refrigerator but didn't charge the battery. Thats normal.
My viewpoint is that one must be very knowledgeable, understanding, and competent in dealing with 3 or 4 different power systems, different sources, and different loads. Otherwise, expect to deal with unknown issues and power failures. I hate to be a pessimist but RV systems are getting very complex for the uninformed.
Bob
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06-24-2024, 04:08 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2023
Posts: 6
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Bob,
Thanks for the reply. I was an aircraft electrician for 14 years but typically had in depth manuals and schematics to reference so still getting my head around the RV.
Battery switch was on, but I think perhaps that’s correct, the batteries were so dead they wouldn’t take a charge. I’ll have to check them out. Just disappointing as they’re only 6 months old.
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06-24-2024, 04:17 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 2,904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arullo123
Bob,
Thanks for the reply. I was an aircraft electrician for 14 years but typically had in-depth manuals and schematics to reference so still getting my head around the RV.
Battery switch was on, but I think perhaps that’s correct, the batteries were so dead they wouldn’t take a charge. I’ll have to check them out. Just disappointing as they’re only 6 months old.
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As I've frequently written; "New guarantees new but not necessarily good". If the batteries were wired in parallel, then one bad cell in one battery with take both of them down. That is why I DO NOT like having batteries in parallel unless the current demand is such that one battery can not handle the load. A battery selector switch, #1 - Both - #2 - OFF is the better and safer approach. Thus if one battery is bad or fails it won't take the other one with it.
One issue we all have with RVs, there is no detailed Owners or Users manual available for the specific unit. As an aircraft electrician, I'm sure you had detailed manuals and parts lists. As me, an electronics engineer, MSEE, I understand most of the stuff. If I don't understand it, I can figure it out.
Sorry to learn of your issues but at least your weekend was not ruined.
Bob
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06-25-2024, 09:07 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Tarpon Springs FL
Posts: 4,621
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possible you may have a battery disconnect switch and the batteries are turned OFF
follow battery cables look for a disconnect and any resetable 12v breakers
double check the NEGATIVE connection to the frame too
on shore power... the converter (charger) powers the whole trailer and charges the battery (if the switch is set properly)
between trips .. make sure you have some sort of trickle charger or connect to a 120v source.. I use an extension cord + adapter to the 20 amp outlet in my garage
Since I added solar no longer need the converter to charge the batteries
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IF your batteries got damaged... and have to be replaced
have a look at lifepo4, I bought 2 x 100ah ($400) and they last a whole weekend.. without recharge.. 12v fridge and normal lights etc for 3 adults
With the solar I last indefinitely... haven't turned on the converter/charger for months
all my battery charging is solar.
but I do NOT use a Inverter, so my usage is pretty low.
__________________
Tarpon Springs FL
2022 Salem 24RLXL
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06-25-2024, 09:11 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Tarpon Springs FL
Posts: 4,621
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BTW... I had to replace the disconnect switch it was faulty
it Happens...
__________________
Tarpon Springs FL
2022 Salem 24RLXL
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