Coachmen Electrical Problem

[Baldicon]

We just returned from 4 weeks in Florida, where everything went fine. At first gas stop, we went in the camper and made sandwiches and all was well. But when we got home and started cleaning out the camper, none of the lights would work. I found the negative batter cable was loose, and one of the two 40A DC fuses was blown. After tightening the cable and replacing the fuse, still no lights. Got the voltmeter out, and read 12VDC across the battery terminals. Next checked the incoming battery cables inside the breaker/fuse box and read 0VDC. I disconnected the cables at the battery and at the breaker/fuse box, and using a long piece of wire, I checked continuity. From the positive (red) cable at the battery, I read an open to the red cable in the breaker/fuse box. From the negative (white) cable at the battery, I read a short (0 ohms) to the white cable inside the battery/fuse box as expected, but also read a short to the red cable inside the battery/fuse box (not expected). With the battery connected, the tongue jack and slide out work, but nothing else in the camper. I assume they both tie into the DC circuit before it enters the battery/fuse box. Our camper is a 2012 Coachmen Catalina Deluxe 30BHS. We have already experienced one shorted wire (DC to the stove vent fan/light and over sink light) due to a staple shot into the wire. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

[f5moab]

I ran into a similar problem with my popup. The powerlift worked, when plugged into AC everything inside worked, but on battery power nothing worked inside. Dealer told me they fixed it by an inline breaker, in the positive cable, from the battery to teh converter. It worked loose.
It appears to have fixed the problem.
I was under the trailer this weekend and still cannot find this mysterious breaker, so I can't help as to where it is located. (The service was closed on a Sat. when I picked up the trailer from a dealer, and the parts guy had no idea where the "breaker" was located.)

[dmf564]

Really double check all of your fuses. I've had them be blown and it was REAL hard to tell.

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[Baldicon]

f5moab, I had wondered about something like that, and it would explain reading an "open" between the outside red wire to the inside red wire. But it wouldn't explain reading a "short" between the outside white wire and the inside red wire. Also, the underbelly of my trailer is enclosed, so I can only see about 3' of the cables after they leave the battery. Taking it to the dealer tomorrow, I afraid it may be major issues.

dmf564, I checked the fuses with an ohm-meter. Also, I'm checking the inside voltage before it get to the two 40A fuses.

Thanks guys.

[Baldicon]

dfm564, just noticed we have identical trailers, how do you like yours? I can work remotely, so the bunk that convers to a table becomes my desk and the bunkhouse becomes my office. That is, when we don't have any of the 7 grandkids.

[MrJoe]

Are you confident that the"short" your reading isn't the load from the lights, convertor, frig, etc? I'd remove all those loads and check again. You might very well have a short, but I've seen that mistake a time or three.

[dmf564]

We love it. It works great with the 3 kids. Gives them a place of their own on a not so perfect camping day..
I'm at a loss on your electrical issue. There has to be an inline fuse that is blown between your battery and the fuse box. And yes like yours my underside is covered so it would make it hard to find. Let us know what the shop says.

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[Baldicon]

Mr. Joe,

When I checked using the ohm meter, the battery leads were disconnected at the battery and at the distribution box in the trailer. So, the only loads still connected should be the tongue jack and slide out. It shouldn't read through those since the switch to both was open. I agree, it doesn't make much sense. It's in the shop now, I'll let you know what they find.