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Old 03-21-2020, 01:12 AM   #1
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Converter bad?

All of a sudden tonight, out LP detector in the kitchen began beeping. When I looked at it, the light was flashing red/green. The info on it said that meant low voltage or a fault.

We are connected to shore power, 30amp, and our 110 outlets are working fine. The lights inside are very dim and the jacks wonít extend or retract.

All the fuses, that I can see, are good and none of the breakers have popped. Iíve reset the main 30 amp breaker.

I think the converter has gone out, but I canít find it. Any idea where itís located?

2015 Forest River 8289WS fifth wheel.

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2020, 01:15 AM   #2
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It is the box with the fuses and breakers.

If you measure voltage or check the batteries what is it at? If anything other than full the converter is not putting out enough voltage if any and you are just seeing what the battery is providing.

It is also possible that the detector has aged out and is just alarming for that.
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Old 03-21-2020, 01:21 AM   #3
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I forgot to add:

The temperature lights on the fridge are flashing and the light inside wonít come on. The lights in the rig are very dim.

When I press the button on the panel to check the battery level, it now reads 1/3. Iíve plugged in a battery tender and attached it to the battery to try to charge it.
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Old 03-21-2020, 04:34 AM   #4
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When you find the converter disconnect the 12 volt output wires and check the voltage at the out put screws. The converter needs 120 volts to operate. Check the 2 reverse polarity fuses (Two 30/40 amp ) on the fuse board. Check the inline resetable fuse that is within 6' of the battery.
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Old 03-21-2020, 04:36 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by guzziknight View Post
I forgot to add:

The temperature lights on the fridge are flashing and the light inside wonít come on. The lights in the rig are very dim.

When I press the button on the panel to check the battery level, it now reads 1/3. Iíve plugged in a battery tender and attached it to the battery to try to charge it.
The light in the fridge is 12 volts. It will be on a circuit with other things. (WH control, furnace control, range hood.)
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Old 03-21-2020, 09:39 AM   #6
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Thanks. How easy is it to replace? All I see are a couple of screws on the cover.

Any recommendations as to what to buy to replace it?
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Old 03-21-2020, 09:49 AM   #7
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have you confirmed that the converter is bad? it does sound like it is not supplying 12 vdc power as the lights are dim when plugged into shore power. they should be normal running off the converter 12 vdc power even if the batteries were low. but they are not.

but you have also not confirmed that the converter itself is bad. have you checked the input and output power at the converter terminals? have you checked the reverse polarity fuses? i would check those before i just went out and replaced the converter. not saying you won't have to, but check the simple things first and know for sure.
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Old 03-21-2020, 10:03 AM   #8
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have you confirmed that the converter is bad? it does sound like it is not supplying 12 vdc power as the lights are dim when plugged into shore power. they should be normal running off the converter 12 vdc power even if the batteries were low. but they are not.

but you have also not confirmed that the converter itself is bad. have you checked the input and output power at the converter terminals? have you checked the reverse polarity fuses? i would check those before i just went out and replaced the converter. not saying you won't have to, but check the simple things first and know for sure.


I checked the reverse polarity fuses. Theyíre fine.


I figured out how to get to converter. Itís hardwired in. There are 5 wires going to it. The large red and white on one side and a green wire, white wire and black wire on the other side.

I canít see how to check the input and output power without cutting those wires.


Also, since the battery has been hooked up to the battery tender, the lights have come back up and the fridge seems to be working again.

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2020, 10:22 AM   #9
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get the model number of the converter. it is probably but not guaranteed to be a WFCO product. then check the progressive dynamics web site to see if they have a drop replacement.
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Old 03-21-2020, 10:31 AM   #10
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I checked the reverse polarity fuses. Theyíre fine.


I figured out how to get to converter. Itís hardwired in. There are 5 wires going to it. The large red and white on one side and a green wire, white wire and black wire on the other side.

I canít see how to check the input and output power without cutting those wires.


Also, since the battery has been hooked up to the battery tender, the lights have come back up and the fridge seems to be working again.

Thanks
You take the cover off and check where those wires are connected. 1 set is for AC and 1 set is from the battery. B/W/G in 120 volt in. R/W are 12 volts to the battery.
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Old 03-21-2020, 10:58 AM   #11
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One way to check the converter is to disconnect the battery then check the voltage at the leads while off the battery. Often easier to check here than at the converter/power panel. (Note: check at wires, not battery terminals and wires must be disconnected from battery)

If the converter is working there should be 13 volts plus measured there. Also, lights in the RV should work if plugged into shore power as they 12 volts and the only place they can get power when battery is disconnected is from the converter. Be sure that the circuit breaker between panel and battery isn't tripped.

Lastly, before just replacing the converter, make sure that the power connections are sound at the circuit breaker for the converter (black wire) as well as at the neutral bus (white wire). Not unusual to find a loose wire at either point.
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