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Old 10-13-2020, 08:30 AM   #1
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Converter breaker keeps tripping

I have a Prime Time Crusader 298BHD fifth wheel that while on shore power at home tripped the breaker for the converter and drained the battery. It recharged while traveling and worked fine for the first day. While camping this week it has tripped about 1 time a day plugged into the campground shore power. It doesn’t look or feel tripped but when you flip it all the way off and back on it begins charging again. I have found no fuses blown anywhere. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 10-13-2020, 08:37 AM   #2
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If its tripping once a day there is a problem. It may be the breaker is getting very weak or something in the rig is drawing high amps and causing it to trip. I would check the amp draw and consider replacing the breaker.
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Old 10-13-2020, 10:12 AM   #3
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I'd check the amp draw with an amp meter to see what you're drawing from the power center. Do you have any means of reading how many amps are being fed to your batteries (a load center or similar)? Unusual to trip the incoming power unless there's a short but that would not be intermittent.
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Old 10-13-2020, 11:06 AM   #4
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Keep in mind that breakers get weak over time, so you may just have a weak breaker.

As Nayther said, the first thing to check is how much current the converter is drawing, but if you don't have any way of doing that, I'd probably swap the breaker with another of the same rating and see if it trips with the converter connected to it.
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Old 10-13-2020, 01:26 PM   #5
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Don't even have to get another breaker

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
Keep in mind that breakers get weak over time, so you may just have a weak breaker.

As Nayther said, the first thing to check is how much current the converter is drawing, but if you don't have any way of doing that, I'd probably swap the breaker with another of the same rating and see if it trips with the converter connected to it.
You don't even have to get another breaker for this test. Just label the wires connected to this breaker and an adjacent breaker with the same rating. Turn off the main breaker and swap the wires.

If the new breaker that feeds the converter trips, the problem is in the converter.

If the old breaker trips, the breaker is weak. But it might not trip if the load is light.
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Old 10-14-2020, 04:28 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
You don't even have to get another breaker for this test. Just label the wires connected to this breaker and an adjacent breaker with the same rating. Turn off the main breaker and swap the wires.

If the new breaker that feeds the converter trips, the problem is in the converter.

If the old breaker trips, the breaker is weak. But it might not trip if the load is light.
My thinking exactly............but since they cost around $5 Id probably just go buy a new one to save myself the double labor involved in doing that when you found it was bad. If it isn't bad you now have a spare. (spare parts are not a bad thing)

If this does not work, the next suspect is the converter itself. If that is the case, Progressive Dynamics 9200 series with their Charge Wizard technology are; IMHO, the very best choice.

https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/po...er-converters/
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Old 10-14-2020, 10:34 AM   #7
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There might be another issue in play besides the breaker.

Since the breaker doesn't appear to be actually "tripped" where the handle moves to a center position, it could well be that the Converter itself is protecting itself and shutting down it's output. Modern Converters have overload protection that rather than blowing a fuse or tripping a breaker merely shut down the output. When power is turned off and on, and overload is corrected, power returns.

If batteries are drawing high current when charging and DC power is also being used the converter may be operating at it's maximum output. If it's getting hot, or has a defective component this could be the issue.

A long way of suggesting that it may not be the circuit breaker but the converter itself. Definitely check the breaker first but this should give you an idea of where to go next.

Check Batteries and other possible sources of DC current draw like an inverter.
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Old 10-14-2020, 02:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
There might be another issue in play besides the breaker.

Since the breaker doesn't appear to be actually "tripped" where the handle moves to a center position, it could well be that the Converter itself is protecting itself and shutting down it's output. Modern Converters have overload protection that rather than blowing a fuse or tripping a breaker merely shut down the output. When power is turned off and on, and overload is corrected, power returns.

If batteries are drawing high current when charging and DC power is also being used the converter may be operating at it's maximum output. If it's getting hot, or has a defective component this could be the issue.

A long way of suggesting that it may not be the circuit breaker but the converter itself. Definitely check the breaker first but this should give you an idea of where to go next.

Check Batteries and other possible sources of DC current draw like an inverter.
All that is true Mike, but still, the fastest, easiest test is the breaker swap or replacement.

Having the batteries load tested would also be inexpensive, just remove and take to Auto Zone or OReilleys and they will test them to determine if one is bad.

Im sure you know but the OP may not, a bad battery can draw excessive current from the converter, causing it to shut down.
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Old 10-14-2020, 04:43 PM   #9
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All that is true Mike, but still, the fastest, easiest test is the breaker swap or replacement.

Having the batteries load tested would also be inexpensive, just remove and take to Auto Zone or OReilleys and they will test them to determine if one is bad.

Im sure you know but the OP may not, a bad battery can draw excessive current from the converter, causing it to shut down.
Personally I wouldn't rely on a "Load Test" for a Deep Cycle battery. A far better test for Deep Cycle batteries is to use a hydrometer or perform a capacity test. Of course the latter takes more time and more knowledge of the test itself.

The LAST place I'd take DEEP CYCLE batteries for testing is an auto parts store. I seriously doubt that MOST are equipped to properly test DEEP CYCLE batteries, both equipment wise and personnel training. To overcome the last part they are now all using "Push Button" testers that merely test the battery's internal resistance (impedence) which is designed merely to determine if the battery will deliver a STARTING CURRENT.

A true "Battery Service Center" like those run by Interstate and many battery only outlets would be a far better choice.
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Old 10-14-2020, 05:01 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
Personally I wouldn't rely on a "Load Test" for a Deep Cycle battery. A far better test for Deep Cycle batteries is to use a hydrometer or perform a capacity test. Of course the latter takes more time and more knowledge of the test itself.

The LAST place I'd take DEEP CYCLE batteries for testing is an auto parts store. I seriously doubt that MOST are equipped to properly test DEEP CYCLE batteries, both equipment wise and personnel training. To overcome the last part they are now all using "Push Button" testers that merely test the battery's internal resistance (impedence) which is designed merely to determine if the battery will deliver a STARTING CURRENT.

A true "Battery Service Center" like those run by Interstate and many battery only outlets would be a far better choice.
Cant use a hydrometer on a sealed battery Mike.........butyou can load test it.

And most dont' know about the battery centers. We only have one in this entire area within about 60 miles or so.
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Old 10-15-2020, 09:53 AM   #11
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Cant use a hydrometer on a sealed battery Mike.........butyou can load test it.

And most dont' know about the battery centers. We only have one in this entire area within about 60 miles or so.

If you are going to do a load test than it would be best to do it properly for a Deep Cycle battery.

Here's what Crown Battery says:


Quote:
Load Test Inspection

Batteries must be at 100% voltage before a load test can be applied.
When load testing remove all battery cables from their terminals.
Using a load tester, apply a 15-second load equivalent to 50% of the battery's CCA rating.
Refer to the load testers minimum passing voltage to determine the battery condition. If the test voltage is below the minimum, replace the battery.
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...eply&p=2433442

I can assure you that those little testers used by almost all Auto Parts strores can't apply enough load. If an average Deep Cycle battery has a 500 CCA rating (yes, deep cycle batteries do have a CCA rating) that means that the person testing has to apply a 250 amp load for 15 seconds. That's a lot of heat for a hand held device like the Midland or AutoMeter testers that are so popular.

Also note the "100% charged" requirement.

Most Auto Parts people will just put the tester on the battery and proclaim it "good" or "bad" without checking SOC.
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Old 10-15-2020, 08:04 PM   #12
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Thanks all, I swapped the breakers and it is working fine so far, putting out 13.6 Volts. The old breaker is also working on the GFIC circuit. I’ll pick up a new breaker ASAP. Fingers crossed. Your help is very much appreciated. I the problem reoccurs I’ll update . Thanks
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Old 10-20-2020, 07:25 AM   #13
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I am surprised no one suggested reading the voltage input to the converter when it shutdown. If you have 120AC in put it is the converter and not the breaker. My converter has a fan for cooling. If the fan stops the converter may overheat and do a thermal shutdown depending on the load and temperature of the cabin.
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Old 10-20-2020, 11:04 AM   #14
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Thanks Dave, the issue has reoccurred, even on the shore power I have at home. The original converter is a parallax 7155, it has two cooling fans and both are working. from what I have researched the lifespan of these Chinese made converters is just a few years. I have ordered a Progressive Dynamics, American made replacement. I hope that solves my problem. Everyone’s help is appreciated.
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Old 10-20-2020, 06:37 PM   #15
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It does sound like the converter is going out. Replacing it should resolve the problem. The brand you are using as a replacement should give longer service. When you are camping and enjoying it problems are never welcome. Hopefully there is not an excessive current draw and replacing it is the solution. Usually excessive current would not only trip it once a day so replacing it should take care of the problem. Good luck and have fun camping.
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