Converter [edited] went out on my Signature Ultra lite 8335BSS

[Ken K.]

Getting ready for a trip next week and showed up to the trailer to find my battery bank completely dead and when I checked the incoming cables from the inverter I got no volts coming in. Also have 0 volts out from the converter to the 12 volt switch panel. Has anyone had to change theirs out. What brand, specs did you use to replace it, and how did you like it?

Thanks,
Ken

[WanderMore]

I’m a bit confused here. The converter takes in 110 VAC and distributes that AC power as well as charging batteries and supply’s DC power to lights and other DC devices.

An inverter takes DC power from the batteries and makes AC power. They are generally two separate units.

Have checked to see if you have shore power coming in, or the main AC breaker hasn’t tripped? If you had not plugged into shore power it is conceivable that your batteries just died because they were not disconnected due to parasitic loads.

[Ken K.]

I may have misspoken, I just have a converter. I wasn't sure what to call it so I used both. I do have shore power all of my 110 volt appliances work as expected. all of the 12 volt things work when I hook up t he truck at the front of the trailer. I have no 12 volt power out from the converter, nothing to the batteries. This is why I asked what others has had done to remedy this specific problem.

[WanderMore]

If you have no 12v power while hooked to shore power but do on truck power it is very possible that the converter is bad. Although, I would cycle the CONV breaker as this takes AC power and supplies it to the converter side of the house and if possible probe it to rule out a bad circuit breaker.

[CHICKDOE]

first thing i would say it to not panic. don't just replace it because you think it might be bad. you need to check it out systematically. i am unsure exactly what type of power you have available. do you have 120 volt power where the trailer is? it is hard to believe that the converter will fail when not connected to shore power.

if i understand you claim zero volts going into the battery from the converter. this would be true if the converter is not connected to shore power or a generator. so first thing connect to shore power and measure the output right at the converter output terminals. if there is no output power reset the converter ac breaker in the 120 volt distribution panel. pull the reverse polarity fuses from the converter and check them with a meter to make sure they are not blown. either of these conditions would keep the converter from supplying 12 volt power when it is connected to shore power. i'm assuming you can take voltage measurements with a meter.

[TitanMike]

As CHICKDOE said, don't panic. Converter manufacturers recommend that the user disconnect the Positive wire from the converter itself (the unit often mounted in the bottom of the Power Center) and measure voltage with nothing connected to it. If not at least 13 volts then the Converter itself is bad although if there are reverse polarity fuses mounted on the Converter (like on Progressive Dynamics 9100 and 9200 series Deck Mounts) make sure they aren't blown.

Converters are protected against shorts/overloads and merely shut off if a fault exists "downstream". This is why it's essential to check first with NOTHING connected to them.

Could be converter but make sure the Reverse Polarity Fuses are good and there isn't a problem in the wire to the battery first.

Progressive Dynamics makes a big deal of testing like this based on the number of "defective" converters returned that weren't defective.

[Sarahcat]

I agree with checking for open (blown) fuses, tripped circuit breakers in the 110 volt AC input or on the output (if any), cycling power, disconnecting the batteries themselves to see if you have a 12 volt output from the converter/charger.

After checking breakers and fuses, I would disconnect any leads from the positive terminal of the battery first and check with a voltmeter from the disconnected lead to the negative lead to determine if the converter output is reaching the battery. If yes, then something associated with the batteries may be a problem. If no, then go to the converter 12 volt DC output as close to the converter as possible and check to see if you have a 12 volt output from it. If yes, then then the converter is possibly working to some degree. If not, and no fuses or breakers are open or tripped, then you very likely have a failed converter/charger.

All of the troubleshooting steps I suggested assume that you are connected to shore power and that is verified to the input of your converter/charger. Good luck!

[camaraderie]

I agree with the last couple of post...but also suggest that your batteries may be damaged if they're flat and depending on age...you may want to either try to rescue charge them at a dealer or buy some new ones since you have a trip coming up.
Is your present converter a separate box or built in with your fuse/breaker panel?

[Ken K.]

I've isolated everything and checked all components. I have located the fuses, and cycled the breakers. My battery cut off switch is a little corroded but tested fine. I am going to swap that out just because of the condition. It wasn't part of the problem. I have fresh batteries, that were replaced when I discovered the problem, the old ones wouldn't take a charge. I did measure the voltage out from the positive out lug on the distribution board, and also with a test light in the output from the converter itself. This is why I titled my post, "My Converter Went Out....". I'll just ask my service manager at the dealer, was looking to get educated on the options before I got to that point though. Thanks for responses. I always appreciate the people on here willing to take there time and post advice to help others.