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Old 06-03-2013, 07:34 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garbonz
Get as big a bat as you can fit. Grp 27 better than 24 AND make sure it is a true deep cycle. Mfg is less important than design. Make sure that quote the AH 20 hr discharge rate is listed on the spec. A grp 24 will be about 80 AH, a 27 around 100. Don't skimp.
How do I know if its a true deep cycle?
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:03 AM   #22
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How do I know if its a true deep cycle?
It won't say starting on it.

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Old 06-03-2013, 08:56 AM   #23
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Cold Cranking Amps is a dead giveaway.
CCA rating means cell plates are thin and waffled for maximum starting amps but minimal life.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:47 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo

It won't say starting on it.

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So it doesn't say starting and the CCA reference is bad as well?
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:44 PM   #25
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Lifeline Batteries - Marine & RV Deep Cycle Batteries

http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/...MasterGolf.pdf

Interstate are good but don't appear to make a true 12 v deep cycle but do make 6 volt if you have room for 2 in series.

Trojans are GREAT but expensive.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:51 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garbonz
Lifeline Batteries - Marine & RV Deep Cycle Batteries

http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/...MasterGolf.pdf

Interstate are good but don't appear to make a true 12 v deep cycle but do make 6 volt if you have room for 2 in series.

Trojans are GREAT but expensive.
Thanx for the links those helped out alot. My battery is located in a single plastic container right behind the propane tanks. Menards has the interstate and I noticed all said starting even the one listed as deep cycle .
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:33 PM   #27
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Yep, the interstates are hybrids and not as good as true deep cycles, as mentioned. Better than nuting, tho. Your battery box will probably not fit a grp 27.

Get a 4d Trojan and a battery box it fits. That would be 180 ah of awesome power.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:41 PM   #28
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Yep, the interstates are hybrids and not as good as true deep cycles, as mentioned. Better than nuting, tho. Your battery box will probably not fit a grp 27.

Get a 4d Trojan and a battery box it fits. That would be 180 ah of awesome power.
Lol sorry to hijack.....
You mentioning "4d" batteries remindd me of our hawkeye bus.
2 8-d batteries to run the inverter!

450 ah each.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:55 PM   #29
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Lol sorry to hijack.....
You mentioning "4d" batteries remindd me of our hawkeye bus.
2 8-d batteries to run the inverter!

450 ah each.
Now that would have some POWER, baby.

My last sailboat had 2 4d's and an 1800 watt inverter and it would run the microwave (140 amps). But I would only use it for a couple minutes at a time. Inverter was right on top of the batts with about 12 inches of 00 wire.
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:12 PM   #30
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OK new converter in and seems to be in good order. Still checking prices on batteries as the one in TT finally fully charged up after a week on the tender charger.

I do have one question on the old converter the line going into the 15amp box was a spliced 2 line with the second wire being capped off. The new one had single wire which j did not add a second wire to it.. is that OK to do? It didn't say I had to just said to make sure there was only one wire combined going into it.
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:37 AM   #31
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I think I am also having the same problem on my Rockwood Roo 23RS. Where is the converter located in your trailer?
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:36 AM   #32
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Mine is under my fridge
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:41 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by BLTOH View Post
OK new converter in and seems to be in good order. Still checking prices on batteries as the one in TT finally fully charged up after a week on the tender charger.

I do have one question on the old converter the line going into the 15amp box was a spliced 2 line with the second wire being capped off. The new one had single wire which j did not add a second wire to it.. is that OK to do? It didn't say I had to just said to make sure there was only one wire combined going into it.
Not sure what your talking about here.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:32 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Not sure what your talking about here.
I'll take a picture tonite of it...basically there is one line that is spliced with 2 wires but I don't see the need of why it is..
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:35 AM   #35
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I'll take a picture tonite of it...basically there is one line that is spliced with 2 wires but I don't see the need of why it is..
Good deal !
Surely interesting at the least.
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:04 PM   #36
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I'll take a picture tonite of it...basically there is one line that is spliced with 2 wires but I don't see the need of why it is..
A picture sure would help

Sounds like a pigtail in there to make a code proper connection if one of your 120v wires (like the hot 110v wire from your converter) is stranded copper. I'm not an electrician, but, if I recall, stranded copper is not allowed to screw directly to a circuit breaker, hence a pigtail with wirenut.

I say, "If I recall", darn it I just swapped an old Parallax 7155 with a PD 4655 and I did re-arrange the 120v circuits but I can't remember what I did with a pigtail I found.

C
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:08 PM   #37
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ok got pictures taken but cant figure out how to get them posted other then attachments.

dcm chrissy .. that is probably what it is... so i should go thru and check to make sure it is not a stranded wire end that went into the circuit breaker and f it is i should pigtail it? i cant remember if the new one was stranded wire or not.
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:43 AM   #38
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... so i should go thru and check to make sure it is not a stranded wire end . . .
I don't think so, if you just disconnected & reconnected exactly the way it was originally. But if you removed the pigtail, I would still say "ask an electrician." (like I said, I'm only vaguely recalling about the 110v stranded wire / code issue.) Ask about stranded wiring into a normal style home breaker. The advice my electrician told me may be exactly as I am telling you, or it may have been that you can't mix stranded & solid wire into a breaker slot. I just can't remember, so please check with someone qualified.

Your pictures indeed show a pigtail ready to connect. I can't zoom enough, but looking at that green wire, it might be stranded. If so, I can guess the black & white are also stranded.

If true, the picture makes sense in that . . .
The short black wire is like an extension cord that can properly continue to the breaker slot & complete the connection.

My situation went a little further in that the existing converter had two connections at the end of the black wire. One was the pigtail continuing to the breaker. The second was the hot wire that powered the receptacles in the camper.

I didn't want my new converter & my camper receptacles sharing the same breaker/circuit. So I had to find out what the purpose of a "pigtail" was before I modified it.

Using math, scissors, a ruler, Microsoft Word, & Avery removable labels, I made new 110v & 12v labels to stick over the existing handwritten labels in the camper.

Hope this helps.

dcmChrissy
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:22 AM   #39
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stranded wire is used on the main tho.

it looks like the wires are soldered to the board so the pigtail might just be an extension (needed or not).
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:52 PM   #40
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stranded wire is used on the main tho.

it looks like the wires are soldered to the board so the pigtail might just be an extension (needed or not).
That's the old one I took out the pigtail was in the circuit breaker and the new was is a single line into the circuit breaker. I am thinking its the circuit breaker for the ac but would have to look to confirm. I honestly don't see a need for the pigtail myself but I don't know the deeper details of the electrical world
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