First post but been lurking the forum for some time even before signing up. Taking notes and learning tips/tricks from you pros out there. First run at glamping after years of primitive hike in. Have a 2017 30KQBSS for reference. Had issue couple weeks ago and then duplicated this weekend. Dealer can't get in for 6wks under warranty (seriously) and I'm not waiting with a trip planned for spring break in March. Sorry for length but looking for direction.
BIG Nube question: If tied to shore pwr, should that not control everything in the coach except obviously stove/oven?
Issue/Synopsis: Left battery on trickle charger over night. Check battery before leaving 13.2v. DON'T turn on fridge or anything else. Drive 30min to CG. Hook up to shore pwr. Open propane, and turn on fridge (auto setting), lights, radio, etc. All works fine including furnace that night. Next day all seems fine. Go hiking, come back for lunch. Turn AC on for lil dog that stayed behind while out hiking again. Yes AC in February; nearly 90 crazy degrees. Come back to start dinner. Notice fridge check light coming on while set in auto. What lights turned on are all dim. Check battery and it reads E. Fridge won't fire on propane. Guessing needs battery to ignite.
Trouble shoot: Shut everything off. Disconnect from shore pwr. Disconnect battery. Check all breakers and fuses in box & wait few mins...
Connect to shore pwr only... results:
Lights dim, awning slow function, hot water will ignite and functions, AC blows cold but flipped to furnace (thermo on Au) and no heat. Outlets & Radio work
Connected TV to TT and shore... results:
Battery jumped to 2/3 full. Lights at full power, fridge ignites & runs, awning and furnace function fine.
So just guessing fridge is prob the big draw on the battery regardless of being on shore pwr. Ideas... solutions... am I missing something... please.
Wife, kids, and I want to rather than being frustrated. Thanks in advance!!
Plugging into shore power usually powers the converter, which charges the 12v batteries, which then run may items including lights. Lights are normally 12V, as are other things. They won't run on 110a/c. They are direct current devices.
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FROG AR-0019-242
2016 GMC Denali 3500Dually--2017 CC 36CKTS
No, that is probably not the problem. I would bet that your converter is not working. Remember, the battery LEDs are pretty much a voltmeter. When you hooked to the TV the alternator or battery ran the voltage on the batteries up. When the converter is working and you are plugged in, the LEDs should read FULL, even if the battery is not full since they are getting 13.6 volts or so.
Is the breaker for the converter turned on. What is the voltage on the bank when the converter is running. It does have fuses as well. Start there.
I would agree the converter is where to start. From description given it appears batteries are not being charged by converter.
That is without a question! lol. Inputs given make sense given my limited knowledge of RV electricity. Based off what y'all have said I'm guessing my issue is going to be the converter not charging the battery. Is there typically a line running from converter to the connections just behind the battery under the frame? I will look into the suggestions given and get a read from the voltmeter while hooked up to converter.
Check your 120 volt circuit breakers in the panel for a "tripped/off" condition.
This is NOT readily apparent from a casual glance.
Find the breaker marked "converter" and switch it off; then back on. If the camper lights become bright and the micro panel shows 4 lights you are done.
Next, remove the cover panel from the converter and inspect the wires going to the converter breaker for looseness or fire damage. (see photo) Also check the converter's white Neutral wire for damage an tightness. (See photo).
If you own a volt meter, switch it to DC Volts of the correct range and meter between the two terminals that your battery's wires connect to in the panel for 13+ volts. If that reads 13+ volts you are done.
Disconnect your battery's ground at the battery terminals. Remove 120 AC power from camper and wait 5 minutes for the converter to reset. Restore 120 volt AC and again meter the two screws on the panel for 13+ volts. If it comes back on, you must replace the battery as a plate has shorted out internal to the battery. If not, the converter is bad.
I have included a troubleshooting guide for a WFCO type Converter and a generic "Load Test" procedure as well. Something in there may help you with yours.
Herk
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
We have a 2016 38FL6 that we picked up 11/18/16. We're now on our third converter as the first two didn't work. This one works like a charm. Start with that. Good luck and welcome to the forums!
Troubleshooting a problem by replacing the most expensive part first is a tried and true method of making repair shops rich. Better to discover the root cause of the problem first and repair or replace that.
It has been my experience, in aviation as well as life, that the search for the root cause of a problem only begins after a line level replacement has failed to determine the root cause more than once. The number of perfectly good items returned to the depot as "bad" and subsequently found as "good" is amazing.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
For Whaler who PM'ed me, look for the popped current limiters near the battery itself and very close to the metal box where the truck's umbilical cord attaches to the camper. Reset a popped current limiter by pressing the button on the short side in. Also look for corroded terminals and rusted limiters.
5th wheels can be under the pin box and travel trailers have theirs under the frame.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
I agree with all the posts so far. There are 12 volt fuses in other places than the regular fuse box for 12 volt, and the converter. So make sure you don't have another 1 out. My thinking is battery as my last resort, fuse, converter is my first thought. I had a converter go bad 2 years ago, dim lights all the time. I had the dealer run a check on the converter, which should not take long. If it's the converter and dealer won't fix for 6 weeks. Cad independent shop.ll Forest River and tell them that a dealer said it was a converter and they can't fix it for 6 weeks. They will maybe refer you to another dealer that will do it or and independent shop that they would honor the warranty.
Slim
C.brown, if you follow the above mentioned checks and do not resolve the problem you make be able to turn off the battery charging function of the converter and just connect a regular battery charger (such ad trolling motor for boat, etc.) This would be a temporary fix, just to keep you camping until properly repaired. There should be an AC breaker on the panel. Just flip it off to turn off the charge function. This will let you AC appliances (microwave, A/C, oulets) still function while your battery and external charger would power your 12 volt things (lights, fridge, furnace blower, propane hot water heater.)
Where in TX are you? I'm 50 Mi SE of Dallas. If you are near me I will be glad to help you check it.
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Cedar Creek Lake, Texas
2019 Keystone Loredo 290SRL
2019 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins crew cab
Andersen hitch
Mr. Brown...If your dealer can not get to your repair for 6 weeks, find another repair shop. Many independents can do FR work under warranty. And other FR dealers might be able to get you in sooner. And make sure you tell your friends about how your dealer treats you after the sale.
Your problem definitely sounds like the converter isn't charging the battery. There's a number of causes for this:
1. no power to the converter (circuit breaker or maybe unplugged - depends on configuration)
2. blown fuse at the converter (usually two fuses, each carrying half of the converter's output)
3. Battery master disconnect turned off (unlikely - battery was running lights)
4. Bad converter
The easiest way to test this is with a multimeter. Check for voltage (13+V) at the output terminals of the converter. If found, the problem is the connection to the battery. If missing, then either no power to the converter or blown converter fuse(s), or bad converter. Turn off the circuit breaker for the converter and check the converter fuses. All converter fuses need to be good before power is reapplied to the converter. These fuses are usually located on the back of the converter, near the DC wire connectors but may be located with other fuses in your fuse panel. Also verify that the DC wires from the converter to the battery aren't wired backwards. If wired this way, it'll blow the converter fuses. With the fuses removed, a multimeter will show the polarity of the wiring to the battery.
A temporary emergency fix would be to get a separate battery charger and put it on the house batteries when you're plugged in. Do this as soon as possible because leaving the batteries discharged for a few days will damage them and they'll loose a good portion of their capacity.
The good news about this problem is that you now know how long the batteries will run the rig when boondocking.
2. blown fuse at the converter (usually two fuses, each carrying half of the converter's output)
Turn off the circuit breaker for the converter and check the converter fuses. All converter fuses need to be good before power is reapplied to the converter. These fuses are usually located on the back of the converter, near the DC wire connectors but may be located with other fuses in your fuse panel.
Phil
I believe there is only one fuse on the DC side of the converter. The AC side is not fused as the incoming AC is wired directly to the full wave bridge rectifier (see attached "generic" - not WFCO - diagram). The DC fuse that protects the converter from a direct short at the output is soldered to the converter control board (per my previous photos).
I am confused about this "(usually two fuses, each carrying half of the converter's output)" and could you explain it better for me? The converter output only has a 12 volt DC and ground wire. Perhaps I am missing something.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Start at the beginning. Load test the battery. A dead cell short inside can cause the problems you suggest. The refrigerator controls and igniter are all 12 volt. Actually almost everything in the trailer is 12 volt except AC, Water heater, (if electric) refrigerator electric heating element, and TV's. If the battery tests good then on to the converter. You can do a simple voltage out put test on the converter by disconnecting the battery and testing terminals with a volt meter. DO NOT SHORT THEM OUT then you will for sure have a converter problem.
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2003 Duramax
2017 Crusader 315
2016 Boston Whaler Montauk 150
Former Montana owner
Colorado Cruiser, Over the Pass and Down the Hill
ARGH! I have a bad converter. Took the batteries out of the equation by disconnecting them and then running the converter. No 12vdc out. 120vac input, measured right at the wires soldered on the converter circuit board. No 12vdc out measured right at where the 12vdc wires are soldered on the converter circuit board. That soldered in fuse on the conveter main board is good. WFCO has a 2 year warranty so I am covered but it looks like a long turn around, you have to ship it to them and they fix or replace and send it or one back to you... Not convenient when on the road. I have been using a battery charger but can tell my batteries are not doing so well either. I guess I will bite the bullet and just order and install a Progressive Dynamics 4 stage converter. Anyway, nice timing on this post, used some of the hints to diagnose it. Thanks.
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2016 Windjammer 3006WK - Sold July 2018
2002 Lance Lite 835EC TC - Sold July 2015
2010 Dodge Ram 2500, 4x4, Diesel, Front Hitch, Air Lift 5000 Rear Air Bags, Sold Mar 2019.
MISSION COMPLETED!
) and I'm not waiting with a trip planned for spring break in March. Sorry for length but looking for direction.
rather than being frustrated. Thanks in advance!!
Took the batteries out of the equation by disconnecting them and then running the converter. No 12vdc out. 120vac input, measured right at the wires soldered on the converter circuit board. No 12vdc out measured right at where the 12vdc wires are soldered on the converter circuit board. That soldered in fuse on the conveter main board is good. WFCO has a 2 year warranty so I am covered but it looks like a long turn around, you have to ship it to them and they fix or replace and send it or one back to you... Not convenient when on the road. I have been using a battery charger but can tell my batteries are not doing so well either. I guess I will bite the bullet and just order and install a Progressive Dynamics 4 stage converter. Anyway, nice timing on this post, used some of the hints to diagnose it. Thanks.
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