Converter, solar charge controller and transfer switch. Oh my...

[melvin2345]

Hello all.

I'll be as brief as I can be. Not wanting to drill holes in my roof, I was going to run my solar wiring down through the fridge vent, and wire the controller under the fridge near the converter. Fridge is on the driver side, batteries are on the passenger side. I couldn't find a decent way to run from the controller to the batteries, so here was my thought:

Converter and controller wired to an automatic transfer switch, with converter having priority. Using existing wires from converter output as output from the transfer switch. The converter is 60A, the controller is 40A, so I assume existing wiring is sufficient.

Thoughts?

[rk06382]

Originally Posted by melvin2345

Hello all.

I'll be as brief as I can be. Not wanting to drill holes in my roof, I was going to run my solar wiring down through the fridge vent, and wire the controller under the fridge near the converter. Fridge is on the driver side, batteries are on the passenger side. I couldn't find a decent way to run from the controller to the batteries, so here was my thought:

Converter and controller wired to an automatic transfer switch, with converter having priority. Using existing wires from converter output as output from the transfer switch. The converter is 60A, the controller is 40A, so I assume existing wiring is sufficient.

Thoughts?

Please post your model & year. I am using the fridge vent on my passenger side.

You can have both connected to the battery at the same time. Most solar charge controller are smart enough to shutdown when the converter is on.

[Desert Boat]

You don't need a transfer switch. You could connect the solar charger to at the battery side of the converter wiring. This _should_ be electrically equivalent to connecting the solar directly to the battery.

Things to consider. Where is your battery disconnect switch? Normally you want to be able to keep the batteries charged while power to the trailer is off. And you want a switch in the solar line as well.

This is not an optimum install. However, RV manufacturers have hooked up chargers in all sorts of locations, such as at the distribution fuse panel, instead of the recommended direct feed to the batteries.

[boondocking]

Run the controller wires to the converter output. No need for a transfer switch, the converter and charge controller play well together.

[jimmoore13]

If you're mounting panels on the roof, you're already penetrating the roof many times to anchor the panels. Don't mess around with running wires down roof-mounted vents for the fridge. The wires could easily conduct water down into the fridge compartment.

Buy a gland. That's what they are for. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...BoCnp4QAvD_BwE

Then you can position the gland above a closet or the pantry and route the wires as directly as possible thru that cabinetry down to the battery bay. You can also mount the charge controller outside or inside the cabinetry where you can see it and check the numerous readouts it offers. 40 amps suggests #8 or #6 wire.

You can hookup to the battery bank in parallel with the converter...no muss no fuss.

When mounting anything on the roof, use butyl tape as a "gasket", and then, once anchored, slather on the dicor or eternabond - or both. Other places will leak before this does.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

... When mounting anything on the roof, use butyl tape as a "gasket", and then, once anchored, slather on the dicor or eternabond - or both. Other places will leak before this does.

How do you get Dicor sealant on the inside edge of the solar panel z-bracket? There's very little room under the frame of the panel.

[bhoth]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

How do you get Dicor sealant on the inside edge of the solar panel z-bracket? There's very little room under the frame of the panel.

You squirt a glob of Dicor about 2 inches in diameter by 1/4 inch thick where each bracket will be placed.