converter that charges ship batteries

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by pbarge

Hey thanks for the ideas! I'll check out the voltage monitor...we don't usually boondock, but it is a possibility in the future....I'll check the charging status tomorrow while plugged in shore power....

Remember, if checking battery "charge status" using just a voltmeter that can mean two different things.

One would be the voltage the battery has reached while being charged. When low it will draw lots of current from the charger (converter) and voltage will be low. As charge increases it will rise. During this process all the voltmeter will tell you is that the battery is charging.

Second, if you want to know the actual State of Charge you will need to shut down the charger and let batteries sit for several hours (overnight is good) THEN read the voltage. While charging batteries take on what's known as a surface charge. This is much higher than the resting voltage that indicates the true State of Charge.

If you need to determine the true state of charge and have just shut off the charger (converter), turn on some 12 volt items. All the lights and fans for example, and let them run for 10 minutes. Turn off. This will help reduce the surface charge and give a somewhat accurate reading but the "overnight method" is best. If not "overnight" just wait several hours. Longer the better.

Now print out one of the Lead Acid State of Charge/Voltage charts posted online and post it next to your voltmeter. Should be fine for your needs if you aren't a boondocker.

[pbarge]

Well I switched the the battery disconnect from "store". to "use" several times. You can hear the relay switching, but with a voltmeter attached there is no change in output and stays at about 12 volts. So it appears that it is not charging. Ideas?

[Danesville]

So check the two fuse at the converter near to where the battery cables connect , you can also check voltage out put

[pbarge]

I checked the two fuses, they are good. I checked the output at the converter, but did not look close as to what it was...will check again.

[rk06382]

Originally Posted by pbarge

On the battery disconnect panek, there is a red light on. It stays on regardless of which way I move the toggle switch to "Use or Store". Is this normal or is this an issure?

The light should go off when the battery is connected. Does your 2006 Georgetown have a RV Custom Products Battery Control Center SDC-107A? (I have a SDC-107A.)




If you do have a SDC-107A, the battery disconnect switch needs power from the dead batteries to close. One way to override this is to start your engine and toggle the switch. There is also a 50a circuit breaker in the battery compartment going to the converter.

[pbarge]

The converter is a WFCO WF-8855. It is showing 13 volts at its terminals. At the batteries 12 volts. Doesn't sound normal to me. Of course this is an analog voltmeter I'm working with so it might not be completely accurate.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by pbarge

The converter is a WFCO WF-8855. It is showing 13 volts at its terminals. At the batteries 12 volts. Doesn't sound normal to me. Of course this is an analog voltmeter I'm working with so it might not be completely accurate.

There is an open circuit between converter and batteries.

Lift a cable from batteries and check voltage at the wires with converter on. Should read same as at converter.

Follow instructions given on starting engine and using overide switch/button.

[Danesville]

There is a name on the plate where your switch is, do a google search and download the manual, glad to hear the converter is working

[pbarge]

Will do the checking as suggested...will let you guys know what I find out...thanks!

[Danesville]

I am going to assume your control centre is a Intellitec BDO . So two things according to my manual, check 5amp fuses that plug into to relay under the hood and make sure battery voltage is more than 10.5 volts

[pbarge]

Its an Intellitec 800. I won't have time to try the suggestions until later this afternoon.

[Flat_twin]

Originally Posted by pbarge

The converter is a WFCO WF-8855. It is showing 13 volts at its terminals. At the batteries 12 volts. Doesn't sound normal to me. Of course this is an analog voltmeter I'm working with so it might not be completely accurate.

Keep this simple and disconnect your battery. Now start looking for that 13+ volts you saw at the charger/converter going toward the battery. Go to your battery cut off switch. Verify 13+ volts is passing thru the switch.

[Danesville]

Here is the manual good luck. https://www.rvtechmag.com/docs/EMS800_SvcManual.pdf

[Sarahcat]

Originally Posted by pbarge

I tested the lights and fans with the batteries disconnected. They all work! Must be the batteries. One more question tho....this all started because I could not get the front slideout to come in. The two rear slideouts work. Have any ideas on this? Do you know where the access to the front slideoeut motor and electrics are?

It’s conceivable that the front slide out motor requires more instantaneous current than your converter/battery charger may be able to supply. Lead-acid Batteries charge at a much lower rate than their discharge rate. That energy storage may be needed to power your slide out motor, which needs even more power to start under load than it needs when running.

My opinion is based upon an engineering analysis, because we are new to the RV/TT world. I just know energy storage and power transfer.

[pbarge]

Originally Posted by Danesville

Here is the manual good luck. https://www.rvtechmag.com/docs/EMS800_SvcManual.pdf

Thanks!

[pbarge]

Originally Posted by Sarahcat

It’s conceivable that the front slide out motor requires more instantaneous current than your converter/battery charger may be able to supply. Lead-acid Batteries charge at a much lower rate than their discharge rate. That energy storage may be needed to power your slide out motor, which needs even more power to start under load than it needs when running.

My opinion is based upon an engineering analysis, because we are new to the RV/TT world. I just know energy storage and power transfer.

Thanks for the idea! That may very well be true, as the front slide out is much larger than the two rears. I have always had some trouble with the front slide as it does not want to come in or out evenly and will bind and stop. Most times I have to get my wife to manipulate the controls while I tug on the lagging side to get it to go in and out. So I feel that I have other issues with the slide as well!