Cord to RV size

[ronthet]

ok, I just received Dogbone that is 15 amp to 50 amp. I can plug it into the trailer and then and extension cord into my outlet in my garage etc. 110. I am not trying to run anything in the trailer as I know AC, microwave etc, and Tv would blow a fuse maybe. Anyway all I'm trying to do is charge the batteries and keep my residential frig on. No currently i only have like a 16 ga extension cord and I plan on getting another. Is there a size suggestion if I want to run some thing in the trailer. Say i am traveling and only have access to a 110 outlet. Could I use water heater etc to be able to take a shower. My trailer is 50AMp with propane heat so just a furnace fan. How do I find this information

[upflying]

I assume your furnace runs on 12v, has nothing to do with 110volt. Unless I'm mistaken, the water heater does not depend on 110v either..except 12v pizeo igntion for the propane.
110v/15a shore power through the dog bone should be fine for the fridge and battery maintenance.

[Kimber45]

any quality cord should be fine, anything but the cheapest lightest gauge cord should work. keep the length as short as possible. You should be able to run anything you want (except air) as long as you are not doing it all at the same time.

[tomkatb]

I use a 100’ 12 gage cord.

You have to be careful. When you first plug in the converter draws a ton of amps for a little while. We have a gas fridge. After an hour I can run a 1500 ac no problem. No heaters or fireplace. Don’t know about the coffee pot. Accidentally had both ac units run once. Caused the voltage to go down to 118.

Charge batteries and run the fridge. No big deal. Waite a while after plug in to,turn the fridge on.

A kill a watt meter is a handy tool.

We have a 50 amp ems that displays usage by circuits. Interesting to watch.

[Boomerweps]

Stick with 12AWG for outdoor extension cables for 15/20 amp service. You likely can run ONE air conditioner unit with nothing else IF your batteries are mostly charged.

Combined cable length and gage into a given electrical load WILL affect voltage at the load. Calculator.net voltage load calculator will give you your voltage drop based on cable, length, gage, amperage load, and starting voltage at your source.

I concur with the poster who mentioned the Kil-A-Watt meter. You can place it near your RV power inlet when using a 15 amp source and adapter. Then turn on each electrical item one at a time seperately to find it's power draw. You can run a few items together and check for the voltage drop. Most electrical items are designed to operate down to 105VAC.

[cavie]

Take your 16 ga cord and throw it in the garbage. Do not try to use it on your rig.

use a 12 ga cord at a minimum.

[5picker]

Buy a quality 12 ga. extension cord in the length you believe you will need.

A 12 ga. cord is rated for 15a.

That's it... it is that easy!

[bubbles]

Kill-A-Watt meter? I don't want anything to do with something that destroys my Wattage.

[LTDunltd]

Wire size/gauge will depend on extension cord length.

25-50 feet- 12 gauge.
100 feet - 8 gauge.
+100 feet- You need to move closer to the outlet.
Always buy extension cords rated for 20 amp service.

[Scubanut]

What he says^. Stick with min 12AWG

[grandpawrichard]

A good rule of thumb to go by: Go with the heaviest power cord possible and the shortest run possible! Never, Ever coil up the cord while it is in use! A coiled power cord will create a n electrical field that will build up Heat and it can definitely get hot enough to start a FIRE!

[firemedicmark]

Originally Posted by cavie

Take your 16 ga cord and throw it in the garbage. Do not try to use it on your rig.

use a 12 ga cord at a minimum.

Ditto

[itat]

Here is a similar thread I started a week ago.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...it-179789.html

I just picked up a 100’ long 12AWG outdoor extension cord at Costco and will be using a 50A female twist lock to 15A male pigtail adapter like you.

[cariboo camper]

Originally Posted by tomkatb

I use a 100’ 12 gage cord.

You have to be careful. When you first plug in the converter draws a ton of amps for a little while. We have a gas fridge. After an hour I can run a 1500 ac no problem. No heaters or fireplace. Don’t know about the coffee pot. Accidentally had both ac units run once. Caused the voltage to go down to 118.

Charge batteries and run the fridge. No big deal. Waite a while after plug in to,turn the fridge on.

A kill a watt meter is a handy tool.

We have a 50 amp ems that displays usage by circuits. Interesting to watch.

I have a friend who is an electrician and he says don’t run my AC unless it is coming off a 20amp breaker. Even with a 20 amp breaker and 12 guage cord it is doable but not recommended.

[formerFR]

the size of the breaker, though, has nothing to do with whether the air conditioner will 'run', or not, that's the provision of the 120v power that comes through any outlet, no matter the breaker size.
A breaker's 'size' does not determine whether an appliance will 'work' or not, only WHEN the breaker will trip, depending on the amount of amps the appliance may require, and for a sufficient time, since a breaker 'trips' due to heat, not power, or even amps. The 'heat', though, is correlated with amperage, and therefore is sized appropriately for the demand.

Most 13.5kw rv roof air conditioners draw only about 8 amps when fully running, but might draw up to 13-14 when first starting the compressor. A 15amp breaker is perfectly sized for that, though many RV manufacturers install a 20amp so that the air conditioner has a little more headroom in the event it requires a little more than normal at start up, such as when the incoming voltage is less than 120volts.


You'd be surprised at how many things you can run at the same time, though, on a simple 15amp outlet, just like your normal household outlet.... very few things use more than a few amps, and even the normal household 'residential' fridge only uses about 8 at most, and only when the compressor is actually running. Could you run both the water heater and the fridge at the same time - probably so. Could you then also add the microwave? probably not... but it doesn't render the outlet 'unusable' as many would proclaim.

electrical systems in coaches are normally designed for 'normal' use, and therefore 'amperage' draw thru the system, which is why you normally see a single roof air conditioner rv as a 30amp variety, while most any two roof air units will be a 50amp variety - they could be drawing more amps at the same time on a hot sunny day, along with everything else, such as the water heater, battery charger, fridge, microwave, etc.

A 15amp outlet is not such a big deal as many might make it out to be. It's 15amps of usable 'power' for many things you want to use it for, and it's half of the 30amps that many rv have when on 'full power'... so, if you are careful and understand what items you are using at the same time, you'll be just fine. If the breaker trips, then you know you're using more than it's designed for - just turn something off, and carry on.

You can easily run a 13.5kw roof air on a simple 15amp outlet

You can even run TWO of the same roof airs on a 30amp outlet

Imagine what you can do with 50amp rv service, which is 100amps?!

[LTDunltd]

Originally Posted by formerFR

the size of the breaker, though, has nothing to do with whether the air conditioner will 'run', or not, that's the provision of the 120v power that comes through any outlet, no matter the breaker size.
A breaker's 'size' does not determine whether an appliance will 'work' or not, only WHEN the breaker will trip, depending on the amount of amps the appliance may require, and for a sufficient time, since a breaker 'trips' due to heat, not power, or even amps. The 'heat', though, is correlated with amperage, and therefore is sized appropriately for the demand.

Most 13.5kw rv roof air conditioners draw only about 8 amps when fully running, but might draw up to 13-14 when first starting the compressor. A 15amp breaker is perfectly sized for that, though many RV manufacturers install a 20amp so that the air conditioner has a little more headroom in the event it requires a little more than normal at start up, such as when the incoming voltage is less than 120volts.


You'd be surprised at how many things you can run at the same time, though, on a simple 15amp outlet, just like your normal household outlet.... very few things use more than a few amps, and even the normal household 'residential' fridge only uses about 8 at most, and only when the compressor is actually running. Could you run both the water heater and the fridge at the same time - probably so. Could you then also add the microwave? probably not... but it doesn't render the outlet 'unusable' as many would proclaim.

electrical systems in coaches are normally designed for 'normal' use, and therefore 'amperage' draw thru the system, which is why you normally see a single roof air conditioner rv as a 30amp variety, while most any two roof air units will be a 50amp variety - they could be drawing more amps at the same time on a hot sunny day, along with everything else, such as the water heater, battery charger, fridge, microwave, etc.

A 15amp outlet is not such a big deal as many might make it out to be. It's 15amps of usable 'power' for many things you want to use it for, and it's half of the 30amps that many rv have when on 'full power'... so, if you are careful and understand what items you are using at the same time, you'll be just fine. If the breaker trips, then you know you're using more than it's designed for - just turn something off, and carry on.

You can easily run a 13.5kw roof air on a simple 15amp outlet

You can even run TWO of the same roof airs on a 30amp outlet

Imagine what you can do with 50amp rv service, which is 100amps?!

When a motor first starts the initial inrush of current is a lot higher.
Most motors will list a Locked Rotor Amps on the name plate.

Locked Rotor Amps are much higher than running amps, generally around five times max running amps.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by cavie

Take your 16 ga cord and throw it in the garbage. Do not try to use it on your rig.

use a 12 ga cord at a minimum.

I would not necessarily throw it in the garbage. It is good as an extension to run an outdoor fan or electric mosquito killer, etc.

For the OPs use he needs a 50' or shorter 12 gauge extension, preferably on a 20 amp rather than a 15 amp dedicated circuit

[itat]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

I would not necessarily throw it in the garbage. It is good as an extension to run an outdoor fan or electric mosquito killer, etc.

For the OPs use he needs a 50' or shorter 12 gauge extension, preferably on a 20 amp rather than a 15 amp dedicated circuit

OP can use a 100’ long cord as long as he doesn’t try to use the water heater on electric as he suggested he might do. Use propane for the water heater if you need to use it.

Here is a voltage drop calculator that was linked in the thread I referenced before.

https://www.southwire.com/calculator-vdrop

If the OP knows the amperage that the electric element in the water heater will draw, he can use this calculator to determine the gauge of wire he’ll need if he wants to run the water heater on 120V.

[Maxwell D Pratt]

And as short as possible not over 25’.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by bubbles

Kill-A-Watt meter? I don't want anything to do with something that destroys my Wattage.

Rotflmao