Electrical - GFI works - little else does

Tallulah · 07-15-2020, 12:08 PM

We brought home our Mini Lite last night. Today we had an electrician come by to check our 30 amp outlet by the driveway. (Previous owner had a camper).
After checking the outlet and everything looking okay, he plugged in the camper. POP.
This is what is no longer working: a/c, fridge, slides, overhead lights, a/c.
The outlets do work. The tv., microwave and seats work. That's it.
He's checked the breaker and fuses at the panel. Said they were all good.
He's left and I'm stuck.
I've read through the threads, but some are very technical and I'm not.
I'm not sure what to do now.
Thank you in advance.

Oaklevel · 07-15-2020, 12:15 PM

Is your camper a 30A or 50A

Is the outlet that you plugged into a 110V or 220V

NavyLCDR · 07-15-2020, 12:28 PM

Sounds to me like the DC side is dead. Did the camper have a battery installed?

Lights are completely DC. Unless the fridge is an AC voltage only fridge running off an inverter, it would require DC voltage for control panel. The same with most A/C units - DC required for control circuits. Is your furnace working? Probably not. Slides are completely DC. Water heater won't be working on propane, only AC. Water pump won't be working.

Tallulah · 07-15-2020, 12:30 PM

It's a 30 amp. I'm guessing 220 v. (not sure how to tell. It's like a dryer plug)

Tallulah · 07-15-2020, 12:33 PM

Yes, there is a battery - on the hitch

NavyLCDR · 07-15-2020, 12:38 PM

1. Standard 30 amp connection for RVs is 120 V. If the 30 amp pedestal outlet was wired for 220 v, like a dryer, that's the problem.

2. I think it might be possible the battery was installed backwards. Follow the wire(s) from the (-) post of the battery. That should be connected to the frame of the trailer. If you follow the wire(s) from the (+) post on the battery, and one or more of the (+) side is going to the frame of the trailer, that's your problem.

If the battery was connected backwards, and the trailer was never on shore power, I don't know if any fuses or DC breakers would blow. As soon as shore power was connected, though, the converter and the battery would be on opposite polarity and the reverse polarity fuse would blow.

Tallulah · 07-15-2020, 12:51 PM

I'm new - I will say that when we bought this, it was plugged in and connected at their home. We had everything running.
Where can I find the convertor? I called an RV dealer and they said maybe the convertor "fried." He wasn't sure where the convertor is on my model (FR Mini Lite 2511S) and told me to try on an owner forum.

BriaBeck · 07-15-2020, 01:01 PM

Unfortunately, it sounds like the receptacle you plugged into is likely wired for 240V rather than the 120V that it should be.

**bikendan** · 07-15-2020, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BriaBeck

Unfortunately, it sounds like the receptacle you plugged into is likely wired for 240V rather than the 120V that it should be.

^^^^^^^^^THIS!
Your electrician failed you.

U.S.ArmyVeteran · 07-15-2020, 01:12 PM

Where was this outlet located?? Sounds like it was a 240 outlet not 120.

Look for the converter near the floor. Behind a plastic panel about the size of a bread box. Not sure finding it is going to help you any. Do you have a volt meter or the knowledge to use it?

Since you called an electrician who had no RV knowledge. If he tested and measured 240 VAC. And knew you were going to plug in your trailer. He should have told you not compatible.

Sorry for your troubles. Best of luck.

**wmtire** · 07-15-2020, 01:18 PM

Unplug your RV immediately from the receptacle. Your electrician mistakingly wired it for 240 volts.

Your converter is most likely what you heard pop. Your microwave and television if equipped are sometimes damaged too when this happens. Hold on and let me get you some links.

**wmtire** · 07-15-2020, 01:20 PM

#1, start with this thread. Unfortunately this happens more often than it should. If you used a NEMA TT-30 outlet, it even has molded on the front of it that it's 120/125 volts only.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...let-27223.html

**wmtire** · 07-15-2020, 01:29 PM

Lisa, I sent you a private message aka a pm. See if you got it.

**wmtire** · 07-15-2020, 02:46 PM

Ok, we have talked by phone and went over some things. It doesn't appear that the electrician messed up at this point, but there is still a very slim possibility. The outlet does appear to be on a single pole circuit breaker (it's on one side of a 30 amp tandem breaker), if the labels are correct in the house electrical panel.

The POP was the circuit breaker tripping in the house electrical panel, not the RV. That was corrected.

The member does currently have 12 volt DC power and we are testing some things to see if the converter is outputting. Will know more tomorrow and then can post a solution.

BriaBeck · 07-15-2020, 03:54 PM

OK, that is better news!!

Mike ONeill · 07-16-2020, 02:08 PM

Following

Witch Doctor · 07-16-2020, 05:44 PM

If you are plugged into a 30 amp 110v outlet and if it is connected to a house GFIC a lot of times both do not play well together. Call the electrician back and have him check. Atleast start there, it’s a pretty common problem sometimes it will get by with it but mostly not. You would need to take your house receptacle off the GFIC.

**wmtire** · 07-16-2020, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Witch Doctor

If you are plugged into a 30 amp 110v outlet and if it is connected to a house GFIC a lot of times both do not play well together. Call the electrician back and have him check. Atleast start there, it’s a pretty common problem sometimes it will get by with it but mostly not. You would need to take your house receptacle off the GFIC.

It's none of that. A rv tech is scheduled. Will update later after he gets there. The converter seems to be out