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Old 07-25-2014, 08:47 AM   #1
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Electrical help for dummies plz

I have a 2012 Vcross lite and am attempting to camp for the first outing of this season. When I plugged in, my AC will bounce on and off, the wall outlets wil work but no lights, fridge, microwave, fridge or pump activity. Breakers appear ok as well as fuses. We moved to a different power sourse and are having the same results.

HELP. IDK anything about electricity and all service locations I attempt to call have been rude and unable/unwilling to give any "phone" guidance. Of course, I can make an appointment and have it serviced in a month or so.

Any help our there?
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:07 AM   #2
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From your description, you have 120 volts to your power center. So, check the converter. The lights, fridge and pump need the battery/ converter to work. The converter takes 120 volts AC and turns it into 13.5 volts DC to charge your battery and power the lights, pump, fridge's brains, etc. If the converter doesn't work, the battery will drain and lots of things won't work.

Although I'm not even remotely familiar with your model, but a lot of things are the same for TTs.
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:15 AM   #3
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Thank you. My spouse is at the camper now and was going to look into this. I appreciate your help!
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:28 AM   #4
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Good advice above. Converters/inverters do have circuit breakers on them so it is a good recommendation to see if it/they have been tripped. Good luck.
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:30 AM   #5
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Hmmm when you say that the A/C goes on and off, do you mean it will start up, run for a while then quit?

Can you turn off your A/C and run your microwave?

Quick fix for your refer is push the switch and have it run on propane.

I assume your unit is 30AMP?

ATM, I am highly suspicious of the camp power grid. As soon as you can, I would buy one of these: EMS-PT30C (this is a 30 AMP model)
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:38 AM   #6
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HSVBamaBob, thanks! Yes, the AC will come on and seems to struggle, almost like not enough juice is going to is then will go off. If I leave it turned on, it will eventually kick on again. The microwave does not come on at all, no matter if AC is on or not. I think that yes, it is a 30AMP.
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:42 AM   #7
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When you check the breakers flip each one off and then on again. They can be tricky sometimes and look and feel like they are on but might not be. Flipping each one totally off and then on again will rule out a tripped breaker.

Do you have any kind of voltmeter / multimeter. Can you find a fellow camper with one. I have a feeling it might take some slightly advanced troubleshooting.

Until you know you have proper voltage don't try the AC unit again. Low voltage can do it harm very fast.
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:51 AM   #8
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cpettijohn, where is the rv plugged in at? Are ya at a campground, or using a plug off of a house or similar?

Also, not being familiar with your RV, is it a travel trailer, or a fifth wheel? As far as thinking it is a 30 amp trailer, do you know if the electrical cord from the RV has 3 prongs (30 amp) or 4 prongs (50 amp).

It almost sounds like you may have a 50 amp (and are maybe using an adapter) and may not be getting proper power to both sides of a 50 amp panel. This is all supposition though.

As Evereddie pointed out, you can damage your air/conditioner with low/improper voltage.

Any chance ya mistakingly plugged into a 240 volt outlet?

Thanks
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:12 AM   #9
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Quick note: the fridge will not work on gas without 12v for the control board "brains"
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:25 AM   #10
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Well, they have pulled the microwave out and it is not working on a different electrical sourse, neithe is the fridge on a different electrical sourse....LIGHTENING STRIKE? Could that have fried everything? But, if that is the case, how do we check the overhead lights? SIGH
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:43 AM   #11
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Cpettijohn, X2 what WMtire said - we need more info on your unit. Also if you are pulling out the Microwave, X2 what Everredied: you are gonna have to do some continuity checking. This is from my RV files - hope it helps you out.

Things You’ll Need:
· Multimeter (to check DC power)
· 12-volt test light
Step 1
Determine whether the coach battery is charged. The simplest way to do this is to disconnect the RV from any external electrical source, turn on a couple of cabin lights, and check the battery's status on the dashboard. To go more in depth, use a multimeter. Preset it for 12-volt DC, and align the (-) probe with the (-) terminal and the (+) probe with the (+) terminal. A healthy multimeter reading is between 12.6 and 12.7 volts. Any value below 12 volts means the battery requires a charge.
Step 2
If the battery is charged, verify that the battery disconnect switches are turned on.
Step 3
Check to see exactly which 12-volt cabin devices aren't functioning. These devices include the water pump, fans, stereos, TVs, etc.
Step 4
Go to the fuses at your RV's power distribution center. Find the fuses for the non-functioning devices (they should be labeled). With a safe grounding, test both sides of the fuse with the 12-volt test light. If only one side lights up, replace the fuse.
Step 5
Now try the device again. If it still doesn't work, use the test light at the device switch.
Step 6
If the switch shows 12 volts, then inspect the device wiring for an inline fuse. With the test light safely grounded, test the wire on one side of the fuse, then the other. If either side shows a lack of power, replace the fuse and try the device again.
Step 7
If the test light still doesn't work, follow the wire to the nut connections. These can rattle loose during normal operation. Tighten them, and try to turn on the device again.
Step 8
If you're still in the dark, it’s time to contact a mobile RV repair or head back to your RV dealer.
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:48 AM   #12
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EDIT: Oops, I see a great post above mine. Go for it.

Lightning strike, surge, or more likely the trailer got overvoltage due to a bad power hookup. Could be problems with your first hookup site. It sounds like this is your trailer you have had for a while and it worked on your last trip out of last season.

When was the last time it worked and where was it.

What does your readout panel say when you push the 12 volt button?

With it plugged into your tow vehicle do the inside lights work? If they do that should get your fridge working on propane.
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:55 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evereddie View Post
EDIT: Oops, I see a great post above mine. Go for it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evereddie View Post
Lightning strike, surge, or more likely the trailer got overvoltage due to a bad power hookup. Could be problems with your first hookup site. It sounds like this is your trailer you have had for a while and it worked on your last trip out of last season.
When was the last time it worked and where was it.
What does your readout panel say when you push the 12 volt button?
With it plugged into your tow vehicle do the inside lights work? If they do that should get your fridge working on propane.

X2 what Evereddie said! I would add that a lightning strike is at the edge of possibilities why your unit is not working.
What I am afraid of is your first plug in was to a bad power source and that is where your problems are now
Potential good news is if the power was bad, maybe the park owner will partially compensate you for your repairs (after all they have indemnification insurance)
Not really the best time, but this is why I always tell folks who buy a RV the 2 most important purchases are a water pressure regulator and a Power Management System.
Please Keep us posted on your progress!
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:03 PM   #14
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Try a different 12 volt battery (process of elimination)
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Old 09-12-2014, 10:24 PM   #15
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So, cpettijohn, what was the outcome of your issues.
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