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Old 07-27-2013, 07:59 PM   #41
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Then can be all rusty and getting no power through as well.


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There are two of these (25 amp written on the side), not resettable, on top of the battery connected to the positive post. They look to be in good condition.
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:08 PM   #42
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There are two of these (25 amp written on the side), not resettable, on top of the battery connected to the positive post. They look to be in good condition.
Lesley.
Check to see if you have 12v on both posts of each breaker.


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Old 07-27-2013, 10:30 PM   #43
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Check to see if you have 12v on both posts of each breaker.


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I will do that. Thank you. Lesley.
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:17 PM   #44
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Check to see if you have 12v on both posts of each breaker.


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I just bought a multimeter and now I will have to learn how to use it.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:30 AM   #45
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Set your meter to measure 25 volts DC- place the black negative probe to a clean area of the frame (-) and the red probe to each side of the fuse/circuit brk. Measure the side attached to the battery first, then the protected side. They shoud each measure 12-13 volts DC.
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:00 PM   #46
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The battery itself is testing at 12.33V. The 2 small rectangular fuses attached to the + post of the battery are reading 0. When I replace these, do I need to disconnect the battery?
I did replace the 30 amp fuse that is about 18" from the battery as it was blown.
Thank you, Lesley.
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:34 PM   #47
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The battery itself is testing at 12.33V. The 2 small rectangular fuses attached to the + post of the battery are reading 0. When I replace these, do I need to disconnect the battery?
I did replace the 30 amp fuse that is about 18" from the battery as it was blown.
Thank you, Lesley.
Probably don't need to but I would.


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Old 07-29-2013, 05:04 PM   #48
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The battery itself is testing at 12.33V. The 2 small rectangular fuses attached to the + post of the battery are reading 0. When I replace these, do I need to disconnect the battery?
I did replace the 30 amp fuse that is about 18" from the battery as it was blown.
Thank you, Lesley.
Interesting arrangement. The bottom CB is connected in parallel to the top, but only the top side is used for load. The bottom is used as a buss bar but even if it opened nothing would change. You really only need to concentrate on the top brk with the wire attached. Connect your meter to (-) and the red lead to that circuit breaker both sides. You should have battery voltage on both terminals. Not sure why all the buss bars and two fuses, only one load coming from the lot! Good pics. BTW. The two leads to the left are unfused. Wiring may not be original.
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:36 PM   #49
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Interesting arrangement. The bottom CB is connected in parallel to the top, but only the top side is used for load. The bottom is used as a buss bar but even if it opened nothing would change. You really only need to concentrate on the top brk with the wire attached. Connect your meter to (-) and the red lead to that circuit breaker both sides. You should have battery voltage on both terminals. Not sure why all the buss bars and two fuses, only one load coming from the lot! Good pics. BTW. The two leads to the left are unfused. Wiring may not be original.
I looked twice at that myself. I think the person who installed that arrangement did not have the correct fuses; but had a drawer full of the others. By paralleling them, the load across is shared equally (if they are the same size) and if one blew, the overload would certainly take out the other.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:29 PM   #50
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Interesting arrangement. The bottom CB is connected in parallel to the top, but only the top side is used for load. The bottom is used as a buss bar but even if it opened nothing would change. You really only need to concentrate on the top brk with the wire attached. Connect your meter to (-) and the red lead to that circuit breaker both sides. You should have battery voltage on both terminals. Not sure why all the buss bars and two fuses, only one load coming from the lot! Good pics. BTW. The two leads to the left are unfused. Wiring may not be original.
Is it possible to replace the two 25 amp circuit breakers with one 50 amp circuit breaker or should I keep it the way it is? By the way, the trailer is wired for 15 amps. I don't know if that makes a difference.
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:51 PM   #51
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Today I bought two 30 amp circuit breakers to replace the two 25 amp that were being used. I could not find 25 amp...only 30. Do you think that will be okay?
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:07 PM   #52
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Today I bought two 30 amp circuit breakers to replace the two 25 amp that were being used. I could not find 25 amp...only 30. Do you think that will be okay?
Lesley.
You really need one 50 (if there were 2 25s prior) or 2 20 amps.
I would NOT go up in amperage without knowing what is on them.
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:47 PM   #53
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You really need one 50 (if there were 2 25s prior) or 2 20 amps.
I would NOT go up in amperage without knowing what is on them.
I will try one 50 amp breaker. Hope this solves the problem. Will let you know.
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:06 PM   #54
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You really need one 50 (if there were 2 25s prior) or 2 20 amps.
I would NOT go up in amperage without knowing what is on them.
Good point, my popup had a water pump and some lights. What does this popup up have to require 50 amp service?
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:27 PM   #55
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There is a water pump, lights, refrigerator, ceiling fan, heater fan...the usual things. So, two 20 amp circuit breakers should be okay. I am not able to find the 25 amp CBs. The original owner had an a/c unit installed on the roof, but that runs off the ac current only, of course.
Thank you for all your help. I will let you know if this solves the problem.
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:12 AM   #56
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I replaced the circuit breaker near the positive battery post and still no power to the inside lights. I finally contacted Forest River and was able to narrow it down to a wiring problem on the battery. The large white wire was connected to the positive post and should have been on the negative post. I changed it this morning and all seems to be working fine now. I feel great and now ready to go camping with everything working.
Thanks to all of you for your time and help. This is a wonderful site.
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:19 AM   #57
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I replaced the circuit breaker near the positive battery post and still no power to the inside lights. I finally contacted Forest River and was able to narrow it down to a wiring problem on the battery. The large white wire was connected to the positive post and should have been on the negative post. I changed it this morning and all seems to be working fine now. I feel great and now ready to go camping with everything working.
Thanks to all of you for your time and help. This is a wonderful site.
If the battery was hooked up backwards then it should have blown the converter protection fuses.
If there still blown the converter isn't working.

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Old 08-01-2013, 11:21 AM   #58
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Also in your picture I see the white to positive!
I can't believe none of us noticed!
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:26 AM   #59
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Also in your picture I see the white to positive!
I can't believe none of us noticed!
Well, I have replaced all the fuses and everything is working fine now.
Thanks again. I do appreciate the help.
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