Electrical question

[llr]

Many devices leak a little current to ground which is not an issue even with a GFCI. The problem with a camber is there are many small leaks now connected to one GFCI which may exceed the threshold for the GFCI.

Turning off everything not needed or finding a non-GFCI source are the only solutions.

[Flybob]

Some of the IC's used in the low cost GFCIs appear to higher quality GFCIs as a ground fault and cause a fault.

[Chuck_S]

All ya gotta do is to turn ALL the 110vAC circuit breakers in the camper OFF except for the one marked CONVERTER. The converter charges the battery, No GFCI on that circuit.

All circuits OFF prevents things like the water heater from deciding to turn of and overloading the circuit.

If you park the camper at home frequently a dedicated 30amp or 50amp outlet on the side of the house is handy. I have one but use it so infrequently ('cuz the camper is rarely home) that I had an "adapter" box made that allows ordinary extension cords outdoors.

-- Chuck

[rocco52]

You mentioned that you tried three different outside plugs. On my house all of the exterior plugs, three, are on the same circuit. Are all three of yours on separate circuits with their own GFI? That would be really unusual. If they are on the same circuit it might be a bad GFI.

[RDGreen]

So, what I've done is to wrap each connection with a couple layers plastic wrap or saran wrap, this keeps the moisture out of the connections

[10Ranger]

Originally Posted by rocco52

You mentioned that you tried three different outside plugs. On my house all of the exterior plugs, three, are on the same circuit. Are all three of yours on separate circuits with their own GFI? That would be really unusual. If they are on the same circuit it might be a bad GFI.

All 3 circuits are on different GFI's each one connected to GFI outlets inside the house.

[frankhaas]

Originally Posted by 10Ranger

Our 5er is parked in our back yard for the winter. I have plugged it into several different outside outlets in order to keep the batteries charged. My problem is all these outlets are on GFI circuits and they keep tripping. They don't usually trip right away and may even go for several days before they trip. I thought that maybe the GFIs in the trailer may be causing the problem so I turned off that circuit but that did not fix the problem. Could it because the trailer is not grounded or maybe because I had to adapt the 50 amp down to 20 amps?

Curious to know if anybody else has had the same problem.

to where you want to plug in.

A GFCI is not to used on a motor driven device.
Run a dedicated 30 amp circuit. 10ga wire and a heavy duty outlet in a moisture resistant outlet box.

[smittyboy]

I would purchase a good battery maintainer, this is a charger that only charges when the batteries drop below a set amperage. We purchased ours from Harbor Freight and it was not the cheapest, they have two at different prices. The more expensive one is the one I recommend.

[dlambers]

As long as you aren't running the AC or water heater, etc. a single 20 amp circuit is all you need to keep things charged and dry in your rig.
Try this for the GCFI problem. Where you make the connection outside coat the plug where it comes together with vasiline to keep the moisture out and prop it up off of the ground to keep it dry.

[Top B]

GFCIs detect leaks to ground and trip for safety reasons. Something in your trailer or power cord is causing this. The fun part is trying to figure it out. A dedicated circuit for your trailer would solve your issue.

[W5CRE]

Originally Posted by camper_Lucy

You do realize the sun hitting plastic or saran wrap causes it to "sweat" moisture on the inside, thus creating water exactly where you are trying to prevent it.

Interesting thought but I must disagree. It doesn't work that way. That is condensation you see on the cooler side of a plastic wrap. For this to happen there must be moisture in the air (humidity). Without moist air, no condensation.

For example. Put a plastic bag over your head. Initially you get moisture from your panicked breathing and it condenses on the inside of the bag. When you stop breathing the condensation stops due to a lack of moist air. Of course you'll be dead then but no more condensation.

[shelkol]

If you are going to rely upon the converter to keep your batteries charged, you better check the water often. That is unless you have a multi stage converter that will drop down to 13.2 volts to float the battery

[Chuck_S]

Every camper for the past 20+ years has a multi-stage "smart" converter with 3 or 4 charge stages. Even my former popup.

Still good advice to check the electrolyte occasionally.

-- Chuck

[pitzhauler]

Originally Posted by 10Ranger

That's a good point but we haven't had many rainy days in the past couple of months and it seems it has tripped more often then the rainy days we've had. Looks like we will be getting some rain in a day or two so I will check
it during and after the rain.

Do not have anything running in the camper.it is pulling too many amps:ie fridge ,heater, fans, lites.

[Flybob]

Originally Posted by pitzhauler

Do not have anything running in the camper.it is pulling too many amps:ie fridge ,heater, fans, lites.

If the breaker in the house is tripping, It could be excessive current, however I believe the OP said it was a GFCI that was tripping. Unless it is a GFCI/Breaker combo in the Distribution panel, a GFCI will not protect against over current.

[BehindBars]

Originally Posted by 10Ranger

Our 5er is parked in our back yard for the winter. I have plugged it into several different outside outlets in order to keep the batteries charged. My problem is all these outlets are on GFI circuits and they keep tripping. They don't usually trip right away and may even go for several days before they trip. I thought that maybe the GFIs in the trailer may be causing the problem so I turned off that circuit but that did not fix the problem. Could it because the trailer is not grounded or maybe because I had to adapt the 50 amp down to 20 amps?

Curious to know if anybody else has had the same problem.

My question is why bother with a charger? Unless you need to use 12 volt things in the RV over the course of the winter, I see no need to be concerned about the battery charge. You didn’t mention any other reason for connecting AC power other than to charge the batteries. Fully charge, then completely disconnect the batteries. They will only loose a few percent charge over the winter. The colder your winter weather is, the less they will self discharge.

[10Ranger]

Originally Posted by BehindBars

My question is why bother with a charger? Unless you need to use 12 volt things in the RV over the course of the winter, I see no need to be concerned about the battery charge. You didn’t mention any other reason for connecting AC power other than to charge the batteries. Fully charge, then completely disconnect the batteries. They will only loose a few percent charge over the winter. The colder your winter weather is, the less they will self discharge.

I'm keeping the heat on low so I need the batteries for the fan. I have not winterized it because we may be using it at some point in the early spring. We are in North Carolina and the temperatures have been in the mid 20s several times already. We also want the120 power available.

[shelkol]

Originally Posted by Chuck_S

Every camper for the past 20+ years has a multi-stage "smart" converter with 3 or 4 charge stages. Even my former popup.

Still good advice to check the electrolyte occasionally.

-- Chuck

My 2016 Wildcat had a converter that only went to 13.6 volts which is too high for long term float. It is less than 20 years old if my math is correct So after it has been hooked up for a week measure the charging voltage.

And yes, in any case keep tabs on the electrolyte!

[roblombardo]

Originally Posted by jakefleming

Normally home GFI's are rated at a lower amperage, usually 15 amps. I would check that of find a non GFI plug that you will be able to reach with the umbilical.

15A receptacles (GFCI or otherwise) are "rated" for 20A, it is only the blade configuration that is different. A 15A device is meant to reject a 20A plug (5-20P), otherwise the devices are identical internally. As also stated above, a GFCI receptacle offers no overcurrent protection.