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Old 02-01-2016, 11:39 PM   #21
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Thanks, I'm putting the SPP6 in, I hear good and bad but it's very popular. The Coleman factory tech told me it should help. He also liked the idea of a time delay.
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Old 02-02-2016, 02:51 AM   #22
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Thanks guys, I'm probably too anal.

Have any of you installed a hard start capacitor and if so, did you see any benefit?

thanks in advance
Tried one on the traler I have now and it didn't make any difference trying to run the 13.5 AC with a 2000 watt Inverter Genny. So I purchased another Genny and parallel kit. Works great know.
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Old 02-02-2016, 05:48 AM   #23
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Yea, your right, hi and low would be better to delay. Wouldn't you need two of these delays to do both high and low? One for each wire?
If you are using the Coleman thermostat you will need to use a relay for each high and low speed. Check the color of the wire connections on the subase. I think 1 is gray and 1 is green. Then drop your R/A grill that is where your wires hook to the A/C board install them there. DO NOT TIE them together the high and low speed to 1 relay. You for sure will smoke your subase. The relay Turbs showed should work for your fan even if it is rated for 18 volt. The spp6 has to connect to your start/ run capacitor at the unit on the roof. That would be a must IMO for a ginny.
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Old 02-02-2016, 07:27 AM   #24
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Fan Delay Relay for Coleman Mach

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Originally Posted by boondocking View Post
Tried one on the traler I have now and it didn't make any difference trying to run the 13.5 AC with a 2000 watt Inverter Genny. So I purchased another Genny and parallel kit. Works great know.

That's because you need 2500 minimum running watts for a dometic a/c, more for a Coleman a/c


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Old 02-02-2016, 08:04 AM   #25
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I could run my dometic off one eu2000. Just had to have the fridge off 120. Worked fine as just a test.

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Old 02-02-2016, 10:07 AM   #26
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If you are using the Coleman thermostat you will need to use a relay for each high and low speed. Check the color of the wire connections on the subase. I think 1 is gray and 1 is green. Then drop your R/A grill that is where your wires hook to the A/C board install them there. DO NOT TIE them together the high and low speed to 1 relay. You for sure will smoke your subase. The relay Turbs showed should work for your fan even if it is rated for 18 volt. The spp6 has to connect to your start/ run capacitor at the unit on the roof. That would be a must IMO for a ginny.
Thanks for this. Yes, I have a GL and a GH, (fan low and fan high) at ceiling unit so I couldn't figure out how to delay both with one unit. I'm going to start with one delay and probably stay with one to keep the generator load lower (low fan). The 13.5 BTU is overkill for my little 21' Rockwood so low fan will be fine and will draw less amps.

The folks using the 18 VAC delays seem to have good luck with them with 12 v.
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:38 AM   #27
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I could run my dometic off one eu2000. Just had to have the fridge off 120. Worked fine as just a test.

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Wow, what size unit is that?
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Old 02-02-2016, 11:03 AM   #28
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I could run my dometic off one eu2000. Just had to have the fridge off 120. Worked fine as just a test.

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I bet not in hot humid air



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Old 02-02-2016, 03:09 PM   #29
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I bet not in hot humid air



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It was above 95 in the summer. It was not the optimal way to run, I do not want to do all the time. Just wanted to see if it could be done. It is a 13. 5 unit. It did help fire up the ac much cleaner when on both Hondas. No more lag.

I will say it would trip on one geni if I ran it for a few minutes then shut off and did not let the ac pressure equalize out. But again, I will not run on just one, just wanted to push the limit to see if it could and it worked fine so long as power was monitored to everything else.

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Old 02-02-2016, 04:16 PM   #30
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It was above 95 in the summer. It was not the optimal way to run, I do not want to do all the time. Just wanted to see if it could be done. It is a 13. 5 unit. It did help fire up the ac much cleaner when on both Hondas. No more lag.

I will say it would trip on one geni if I ran it for a few minutes then shut off and did not let the ac pressure equalize out. But again, I will not run on just one, just wanted to push the limit to see if it could and it worked fine so long as power was monitored to everything else.

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those little honda's are a great machine. Yea, I'll open every circuit in the breaker panel but the AC when I try it. I'm working with 2400 wt max, 2100 wt continuous.
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:17 PM   #31
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Yeah I only has the 2000 watts and the 1800 running so you might be better off with a bit more juice.

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Old 02-02-2016, 08:03 PM   #32
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those little honda's are a great machine. Yea, I'll open every circuit in the breaker panel but the AC when I try it. I'm working with 2400 wt max, 2100 wt continuous.
I wish I could open that attachment bigger I can't read the figures they are posting for it. Did HVAC for 20 some years, would like to see the specks better....
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:02 PM   #33
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Sorry I will make it larger and repost
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:10 PM   #34
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Here's my Coleman 13.5 Placard on the AC. should be able to enlarge this one.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxW...ew?usp=sharing
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:17 PM   #35
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I wish I could open that attachment bigger I can't read the figures they are posting for it. Did HVAC for 20 some years, would like to see the specks better....
I did some HVAC as a helper in high school but I spent more time in attics wrapping insulation than I did learning about the details. But from what I read, starting amps is about 1.64 times running amps so starting amps on the compressor alone would be about 15.9 or about 1800 watts at 115 v. That sounds a little low however but would be nice.
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Old 02-03-2016, 03:59 PM   #36
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I did some HVAC as a helper in high school but I spent more time in attics wrapping insulation than I did learning about the details. But from what I read, starting amps is about 1.64 times running amps so starting amps on the compressor alone would be about 15.9 or about 1800 watts at 115 v. That sounds a little low however but would be nice.
Well your pretty close with that # but when you add up your FLA at start up and running at 90 degrees you are only looking at 13.1 amps FLA. That's not much but maybe on a ginny. Where this 6.5 amps for a fan motor came from I don't know your fan at FLA is only 3.4 amps and that is also on start up....Thanks for the bigger picture...
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Old 02-03-2016, 04:25 PM   #37
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At initial start up of the air conditioner, the amps would be close to LRA (50 amps) and then rapidly decrease to the FLA ( 13 amps) that is the reason a generator needs to be sized properly to all load in an RV that a person wants to operate at same time.....

Sizing a Generator to Start Air Conditioner and Motors
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Old 02-04-2016, 02:00 AM   #38
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Well your pretty close with that # but when you add up your FLA at start up and running at 90 degrees you are only looking at 13.1 amps FLA. That's not much but maybe on a ginny. Where this 6.5 amps for a fan motor came from I don't know your fan at FLA is only 3.4 amps and that is also on start up....Thanks for the bigger picture...
So they starting amps on the fan motor is about the same starting and running? Thanks
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Old 02-04-2016, 05:27 AM   #39
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To Tall no matter what you do I would think that a must is a hard start kit on the compressor, as far as the fan motor go's if you are running a genny it would be best still to delay the Fan Motor with that time delay the one Turbs showed will work fine on the 12 volt side control wires. These little units there really not much difference between high speed and low speed CFM wise. I always think it's better to run your A/C on high speed, but that is just my opinion. If you are changing your stat to digital your only going to be able to pick high or low, without adding a switch as some members have done using a hunter or honeywell.
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Old 02-04-2016, 09:13 PM   #40
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To Tall no matter what you do I would think that a must is a hard start kit on the compressor, as far as the fan motor go's if you are running a genny it would be best still to delay the Fan Motor with that time delay the one Turbs showed will work fine on the 12 volt side control wires. These little units there really not much difference between high speed and low speed CFM wise. I always think it's better to run your A/C on high speed, but that is just my opinion. If you are changing your stat to digital your only going to be able to pick high or low, without adding a switch as some members have done using a hunter or honeywell.
Thanks, yes I noticed very little difference between high and low fan. I already purchased the 12 v Dayton before this discussion confirmed it would work. I connected it yesterday and it's working great. I received the 2400/2100 gen today late and got it going. After a little brief break in, I plugged on the TT with nothing on but a light and the convertor. I haven't installed the hard start yet but the ac cranked right up just as it did on shore power. I will add the hard start tomorrow.

What I'm wondering is when temps get up in the 90s, if it will still perform. It was only 55 to 60 deg today. Seems like I saw a chart some where on the web that estimated the various evap and condenser loads at various temps.
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