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Old 11-06-2019, 02:04 PM   #21
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Ironic

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Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
I've always wondered the same thing. My Solar Controller receives it's control voltage readings from my battery monitor (both Victron) and disregards any voltage drop between battery and controller when determining which "mode" to use while charging.

I've even asked the people at Progressive Dynamics and didn't really get an answer.

I believe their answer is to merely recommend floor mounted Converters (like 9100/9200 series) that can be mounted next to the batteries and merely plugged into and AC outlet nearby.

If I were to install a Victron Converter it too would share battery voltage with the Victron network. Charging would be controlled by the voltage read at the battery by the shunt.
It's ironic that the converter in the Cherokee 38P (which never moves or is off of shore power) is mounted in the very front of the trailer. The battery cables are just a couple of feet long.

The converter in the SOB 22' Nash is mounted beneath the refrigerator half the length of the trailer from the batteries and that's the unit we would take traveling or dry-camping.
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Old 11-06-2019, 02:40 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by ArkRVHog View Post
"One other thought... Is your CPAP running off an DC to AC inverter or does it have a DC power plug option? You do loose some "power" as overhead for a DC to AC converter and the smaller ones like 300-500 watts are usually less efficient than the larger more expensive sine wave inverters. So that may contribute to the drain. See if they make a DC plug power cord for your model as that may help.

Also you still have phantom DC loads in the trailer and if you ran the furnace, that is a DC power hog for sure when the fan runs."

dward51, based on past great input from this forum I did get a DC cord for my CPAP which plugs into a cig outlet close to my bed. And those phantom loads (with everything off) are a bigger issue than most know. Even with my battery cut-off engaged, I lost 15% battery power over the course of two weeks with it in storage. Have now charged it up and disconnected negative cables to stop that!
A while back I read where another forum member purchased a portable Jump Start "box" with internal battery and cigarette lighter type outlet for use with his CPAP.

This puts the CPAP on a totally different battery than house batteries and it gave him enough run time for all night, regardless of power use by furnace, etc. It recharged quickly from shore power or generator during regular battery charge time.

I've seen these with 25 ah capacity which is almost 2/3 my daily power usage in my TT.

Oh yeah, they also double as a Jump Starter if you can't get your main engine started due to dead battery. Some even have built in compressors too.
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Old 11-06-2019, 02:55 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by McCormickJim View Post
Sorry, but 100 watts of solar isn't much, but since every bit helps here is a tip.

A solar panel may lose over 50% of it's charging capability if it is dirty.

Dirty doesn't mean covered with mud. Dirty with >50% loss means just a little dust or condensation spots.

Second tip is to use alagator clips and short cables between your portable charger and your batteries. If you use the 'solar ready' connection you my lose up to 25% of your input due to line loss. The same applies if you are using a 12v extension cord.

Third tip: Check your solar controller to verify th amps of input you are getting out of it. My 100W Dokio panel produces less than half the amps of my 110W Zamp suitcase charger. Zamp is expensive. Dokio is cheap. You get what you pay for.

I connect my Dokio and my Zamp directly to the batteries. On a good day, they will maintain the charge on the batteries when I'm using only the on-board loads (lights, water pump, etc., with nothing else plugged in or running).
Not if your "extension cord" is a piece of industrial 10-4 SO cord with the four conductors connected in two pairs. I have a 40' extension cord on my Solar Suitcase with MPPT controller mounted in trailer. In full sun my 160 W panel setup shows as much as 155 watts going into my batteries. Especially when I take the time to aim the panels directly at the Sun, usually around mid-day.
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Old 11-06-2019, 02:57 PM   #24
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I put an extra regular car battery under my bed and ran a cigarette lighter plug to the outside and connect my CPAP to tht. I have gone 5 nights on the battery without running out. Not sure how far it would go.
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Old 11-06-2019, 04:42 PM   #25
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Thanks for mentioning this but I'm just running the "blower" only to not suck anymore DC power than it already is...but I miss my nice warm air humidifier!

I considered buying a dedicated "travel battery" that is sold by the CPAP places...it would get me through the night but then I've still got the challenge of getting it charged back up for the next night.

Boon-docking gets you into some great parks but I sure miss that shore power!
I use a SnuggleHose Cover on my heated hose. (I also have a 12v adapter for my CPAP.)


With water tank & heated hose, I use about 40-50ah for 6-8 hours of sleep.
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Old 11-06-2019, 05:22 PM   #26
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I use a SnuggleHose Cover on my heated hose. (I also have a 12v adapter for my CPAP.)


With water tank & heated hose, I use about 40-50ah for 6-8 hours of sleep.

Wow, that sure seems like a lot. Especially when compared to my 35 ah daily average using lights, fans, and watching a movie every night running both TV and DVD player. This also includes some furnace use.

Is the 40-50 ah use just for CPAP or is it included in your overnight use that would include lights, TV, etc?
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Old 11-06-2019, 05:53 PM   #27
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Wow, that sure seems like a lot. Especially when compared to my 35 ah daily average using lights, fans, and watching a movie every night running both TV and DVD player. This also includes some furnace use.

Is the 40-50 ah use just for CPAP or is it included in your overnight use that would include lights, TV, etc?
That does include lights, TV, DVD, & my wifes small fan. That was in the summer. I used about 10% of my battery capacity.
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Old 11-06-2019, 05:56 PM   #28
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That does include lights, TV, DVD, & my wifes small fan. That was in the summer. I used about 10% of my battery capacity.

That makes more sense.
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Old 11-06-2019, 06:21 PM   #29
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That does include lights, TV, DVD, & my wifes small fan. That was in the summer. I used about 10% of my battery capacity.
Your mention of your wife's small fan made me grin.

When I met my late wife I thought she was a "hot chick". After we'd been married a few years I realized how "hot".

I'd wake up in the middle of the night feeling like I was sleeping in a wind storm. She would have the ceiling fan on High and the bedroom window wide open even with the outside temperature in the 50's.

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Old 11-06-2019, 07:35 PM   #30
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McCormickJim...thanks for your great tips on the solar. I'll wipe my Renogy panel daily even if it doesn't appear dirty. My RV was pre-wired for the Zamp system and I had my RV place install the Renogy controller in my unit thus my Renogy "suitcase" is just the solar panel only. I'm using the max gauge of wire possible from the suitcase to the Zamp connection. I will have my place make sure that we're also using the max gauge wire from the Zamp connection to the controller to the battery.
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Old 11-06-2019, 07:59 PM   #31
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TitanMike and ependydad...I'm hoping my converter is already very close to the batteries...under my frig, inches from the breaker box, and the entry steps where my batteries are located. If that's the case, then it's just a matter of changing out wiring to the heaviest gauge possible as you mentioned. Is that just needed from converter to battery or also from converter to breaker box connection too? (I am very much an electrical novice.) Thanks!
If the batteries are that close to the converter/charger then putting in a thicker gauge wire or doubling the wire will probably not change a thing. Longer distance runs have increased resistance from the length of the wire which causes a voltage drop. The vast majority of units out there seem to have batteries almost as far as possible from the converter/charger, but it sounds like yours is not like that.
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Old 11-06-2019, 09:16 PM   #32
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So I now have a second question regarding coach battery charging...3 days ago, I ran my generator to get my coach batteries up to 90% charged per my Victron battery monitor. I then disconnected my negative battery cables to negate the phantom draw that everyone experiences. Today I went back to my stored unit, hooked back up my batterty cables, and my Victron monitor is now saying 100% charged. Any ideas on that...I'm baffled...again!
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Old 11-06-2019, 10:50 PM   #33
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Through the chemical reaction they will come back up as they settle from charging. That's one reason they say to wait before checking after charging to let them settle.
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Old 11-06-2019, 10:51 PM   #34
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So I now have a second question regarding coach battery charging...3 days ago, I ran my generator to get my coach batteries up to 90% charged per my Victron battery monitor. I then disconnected my negative battery cables to negate the phantom draw that everyone experiences. Today I went back to my stored unit, hooked back up my batterty cables, and my Victron monitor is now saying 100% charged. Any ideas on that...I'm baffled...again!
Victron defaults to 100% when turned on.
From BMV manual Page 6:
"When powered up for the first time, the BMV will display 100% state of charge."
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Old 11-07-2019, 07:43 PM   #35
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For AGM batteries you need a charge rate of aprox. 14.4 to 14.7 for bulk charge. Check with manufacturer as they will vary slightly
You also need a quality 3 stage charger for an AGM. a standard converter charger will wreck your new AGM batteries. You have 184 amp hours of capacity. If you take 25% out of them that's 46 amps. It will take 40% more charge rate to replace capacity. So if you take 46 amp hours out, it will take 64.5 amp hours of charge to replace capacity. About an hour and a half at 40 amp charge rate.

Hope it helps
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Old 11-07-2019, 09:27 PM   #36
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For AGM batteries you need a charge rate of aprox. 14.4 to 14.7 for bulk charge. Check with manufacturer as they will vary slightly
You also need a quality 3 stage charger for an AGM. a standard converter charger will wreck your new AGM batteries. You have 184 amp hours of capacity. If you take 25% out of them that's 46 amps. It will take 40% more charge rate to replace capacity. So if you take 46 amp hours out, it will take 64.5 amp hours of charge to replace capacity. About an hour and a half at 40 amp charge rate.

Hope it helps
AGMs are actually very efficient at being charged. No where near as bad as what you state. Typically, they are 95% efficient. Even flooded lead acid batteries are nowhere near what you say. They are closer to 80% efficient.

Here is what Lifeline says about their AGM battery charging. The cut off voltage to switch from bulk to Absorb is 14.3V.

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Old 11-07-2019, 09:31 PM   #37
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Also a 4 stage converter is better then a 3 stage. I put a 4 in mine. Works great along with 305 of solar.
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Old 11-07-2019, 09:37 PM   #38
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Also a 4 stage converter is better then a 3 stage. I put a 4 in mine. Works great along with 305 of solar.
All the 4th stage does is add equilization.
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Old 11-07-2019, 09:49 PM   #39
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With all due respect, I dontjisbfor a living. Never heard of that brand. Here is a snap shot of charging information right from East Penn. As mentioned, all manufactures may be different. Rolls brand is 14.7 min. Good luck
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AGMs are actually very efficient at being charged. No where near as bad as what you state. Typically, they are 95% efficient. Even flooded lead acid batteries are nowhere near what you say. They are closer to 80% efficient.

Here is what Lifeline says about their AGM battery charging. The cut off voltage to switch from bulk to Absorb is 14.3V.

Click image for larger version

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Old 11-07-2019, 10:18 PM   #40
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With all due respect, I dontjisbfor a living. Never heard of that brand. Here is a snap shot of charging information right from East Penn. As mentioned, all manufactures may be different. Rolls brand is 14.7 min. Good luck
Lifeline is one of the Cadillac brands as is Rolls.

BTW...I was an EE at GM working on the EV1 years ago. I know a little about batteries!

My main issue with what you said was the 40% more charge required.
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