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11-11-2019, 08:49 PM
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#41
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1
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Battery discharge
I too use a CPAP and I have 2 suggestions. 1. Many CPAPs will actually run on 12 volt. Check the output on your power cord coming out of the "transformer" and see if it may be 12 volts. If so rig the CPAP directly to the batteries rather than using your regular power cord and running it through an inverter. 2. The humidifier actually takes more current than the motor. If you can get along without the humidifier for a while, turn it off. It actually has a heater in it to cause the humidity.
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11-11-2019, 11:31 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 420
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Bring your batteries down to under 60 percent the. Plug into a good power source. Since you have s victron monitor charging voltage.
With my wfco converter that came with my trailer it never goes into bulk charge. I even had them send me a new one under warranty and it does the same thing. I have a progressive dynamics converter waiting to go in.
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11-12-2019, 12:21 PM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quicky06
With my wfco converter that came with my trailer it never goes into bulk charge. I even had them send me a new one under warranty and it does the same thing. I have a progressive dynamics converter waiting to go in.
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Don't be surprised if your new PD doesn't go into Bulk mode either. Often there is enough line resistance between converter (smaller wire size, lots of connections, etc) that the voltage rises quickly at the converter. While it may have started at Bulk charge voltage it switches too soon into Absorbtion mode.
At least with the PD converter you will have the Smart Wizard feature and can force it into Bulk mode by pushing the button on the pendant. Great for times when running a generator or you want more rapid recovery of charge on the batteries.
BTW, don't just focus on wire size between converter and batteries. Pay extra attention to the negative wires at both battery and converter end. Factory often attaches them to the frame right over the "paint" using a TEK screw. Removing the screw, sanding off all the paint at the contact point, and reattaching the connector (after it's cleaned of any corrosion too) will often yield surprising results.
For an interesting, and often surprising exercise, use a voltmeter and check voltage drop across every connection between battery and converter. Pay extra attention to battery terminal connections and disconnect switch.
Each connection may show just a few millivolts drop but record the amount at each connection and then add them all up. For the long run just measure voltage at converter and again where the wire reappears next to the batteries. Add that voltage drop to what you find at each connection.
Extra work-yes, but it will reveal where work is necessary to get the converter to function properly, even WFCO's.
__________________
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11-12-2019, 05:41 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
Don't be surprised if your new PD doesn't go into Bulk mode either. Often there is enough line resistance between converter (smaller wire size, lots of connections, etc) that the voltage rises quickly at the converter. While it may have started at Bulk charge voltage it switches too soon into Absorbtion mode.
At least with the PD converter you will have the Smart Wizard feature and can force it into Bulk mode by pushing the button on the pendant. Great for times when running a generator or you want more rapid recovery of charge on the batteries.
BTW, don't just focus on wire size between converter and batteries. Pay extra attention to the negative wires at both battery and converter end. Factory often attaches them to the frame right over the "paint" using a TEK screw. Removing the screw, sanding off all the paint at the contact point, and reattaching the connector (after it's cleaned of any corrosion too) will often yield surprising results.
For an interesting, and often surprising exercise, use a voltmeter and check voltage drop across every connection between battery and converter. Pay extra attention to battery terminal connections and disconnect switch.
Each connection may show just a few millivolts drop but record the amount at each connection and then add them all up. For the long run just measure voltage at converter and again where the wire reappears next to the batteries. Add that voltage drop to what you find at each connection.
Extra work-yes, but it will reveal where work is necessary to get the converter to function properly, even WFCO's.
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I’m a master tech at a car dealer. My standards of a good connnection Sns the RV industries standards are two different things. I have 1/0 welding cable ran from the battery to the load center. And from the load center to the frame and from the battery to the frame. All crimped and soldered connections. Then heat shrinked with gel filled tube this way there is not copper wire exposed to prevent corrosion.
The factory ground wire from the load center to the frame was 8 gauge to a buss bar then 10 gauge to the frame. Replace the 8 gauge with 1/0 going straight to the frame and left the 10gauge for the other items on the buss bar.
It’s not a resistance issue.
I’m in the process of adding 12v heaters to all my tanks and under belly plumbing. Tired of freezing on 20 degree nights. So the converter upgrade is to go from a 40 amp to a 70 amp.
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11-14-2019, 08:05 PM
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#46
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 32
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charging your rv batteries fast and efficient
The converter is no method to charge your batteries fast, even if you put #1 welding cables between converter and batteries, as the most I have ever seen is a 7 amp charge! To get your 2 - 6V batteries from 12V to full will take at least 7 hours!
I have a smart charger that pumps up to 25 amps steady into the batteries, and they can handle that kind of charge!
I hook my charger up when I need it (I don't need it much as I have 200 watts of solar, and I am good for 4 to 5 days in summer), however if you have no solar help and need to run your generator to charge, get a BIG charger. 25 amps for 2 hours gets you likely close to your full battery!
And read up on battery info and also buy a quality DC volt and ampere meter!
No more guessing!
You can also install such a charger in your RV if you need it frequently!
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11-14-2019, 08:41 PM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebergler
The converter is no method to charge your batteries fast, even if you put #1 welding cables between converter and batteries, as the most I have ever seen is a 7 amp charge! To get your 2 - 6V batteries from 12V to full will take at least 7 hours!
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A converter is fully capable of outputting large charge currents. The problem is if the voltage isn't high enough due to voltage drops, it's not going to happen. My 60A converter outputs 60A into my lithium batteries just fine!
BTW, 25A for 2 hours will get you 50AH. If you have 2 6V golf cart batteries that are at 50%, they are down 110AH. You do the math!
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11-14-2019, 09:54 PM
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#48
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebergler
The converter is no method to charge your batteries fast, even if you put #1 welding cables between converter and batteries, as the most I have ever seen is a 7 amp charge! To get your 2 - 6V batteries from 12V to full will take at least 7 hours!
I have a smart charger that pumps up to 25 amps steady into the batteries, and they can handle that kind of charge!
I hook my charger up when I need it (I don't need it much as I have 200 watts of solar, and I am good for 4 to 5 days in summer), however if you have no solar help and need to run your generator to charge, get a BIG charger. 25 amps for 2 hours gets you likely close to your full battery!
And read up on battery info and also buy a quality DC volt and ampere meter!
No more guessing!
You can also install such a charger in your RV if you need it frequently!
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You have an issue with your converter if you only get 7 amps. Even with my converter not going into bulk charge I can get 25 amps going to the batteries.
Also just putting a high amp charger on the batteries and boiling the batteries will kill them.
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11-14-2019, 10:38 PM
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#49
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 32
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The builders of RV's put the cheapest components into them and if you want a high battery charging on it will cost you more than a higher output battery charger. My charger has max 25 amp output that gets reduced as the batteries go fuller and does not boil them. If you let them go the full distance their final function is equalizing the cells.
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11-14-2019, 11:22 PM
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#50
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebergler
The converter is no method to charge your batteries fast, even if you put #1 welding cables between converter and batteries, as the most I have ever seen is a 7 amp charge!
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Before upgrading my converter, I was seeing 20-25 amps hitting the batteries.
After upgrading it (to be lithium aware) and moving it to be close to the batteries with 2AWG cables, I'm now seeing 60-70amps pushed into the batteries.
What I upgraded to is still just an off-the-shelf converter.
__________________
Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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Linear Mode
