Fried 30 amp inlet this weekend, repair question

[campers302]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Not that I'm aware of.

Their cover flap/lid does lock/snap onto the plug to help hold the weight of the cable/plug.

Will this cover existing hole?
I do not like the existing plug like this gentleman had burn up on him.
Thanks

[joeuncool]

I read through all the posts. You reported that other campers were reporting electrical issues. One thing I have seen is whether or not you used a surge suppressor.

Just curious.

[babock]

Originally Posted by joeuncool

I read through all the posts. You reported that other campers were reporting electrical issues. One thing I have seen is whether or not you used a surge suppressor.

Just curious.

A surge suppressor wouldn't prevent this issue. A hardwired EMS might.

[TitanMike]

Whenever a breaker trips on the pedestal it's a great idea to check cord ends for heat. Heat and smell almost always give up where the fault is.

[muddyrode]

what is the orange cord in the third picture is that the cord to the RV?

[5picker]

Originally Posted by muddyrode

what is the orange cord in the third picture is that the cord to the RV?

That is the supply Romex that goes from the receptacle on the side of the R/V to the power distribution box (breaker box) inside the R/V.

[Sunseeker16]

Somebody help me out here. I've had this same issue and found all of the connections loose, the ones on the inside of the motorhome, at the shore power connection. I complained to FR and they reimbursed me for parts. My concern is why is everybody hung up on twisting the plug and securing the ring to the coach? All that does is keep it from falling out. If that was an issue the pedestal would have a lock of some sort. I don't believe it has anything to do with twisting the plug or tightening the ring.

[babock]

Originally Posted by Sunseeker16

Somebody help me out here. I've had this same issue and found all of the connections loose, the ones on the inside of the motorhome, at the shore power connection. I complained to FR and they reimbursed me for parts. My concern is why is everybody hung up on twisting the plug and securing the ring to the coach? All that does is keep it from falling out. If that was an issue the pedestal would have a lock of some sort. I don't believe it has anything to do with twisting the plug or tightening the ring.

I agree. In this case, my bet is that the romex going into the back of the shorepower plug had a loose connection.

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by campers302

THESE NEW TWIST LOCK CONNECTIONS ARE THE WORST DESIGN EVER. PIECES OF CRAP.

It's my understanding that the twist lock connector has been around for a long time. It was initially created to connect machines in a shop. Most often the machine was plugged in by a professional installer and then never touched. At some point it was repurposed for use by the RV industry, possibly to answer people who wanted to separately store their power cords and save space.

[Jfkmk]

Originally Posted by babock

I agree. In this case, my bet is that the romex going into the back of the shorepower plug had a loose connection.

In my humble opinion I believe this is correct. I had the same thing happen to me but only on one prong.

To the OP, the shore power outlet is easy to replace and not terribly expensive. I bought my replacement on etrailer, along with a new cord.

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by Sunseeker16

My concern is why is everybody hung up on twisting the plug and securing the ring to the coach? All that does is keep it from falling out. If that was an issue the pedestal would have a lock of some sort. I don't believe it has anything to do with twisting the plug or tightening the ring.

It's called a twist lock for a reason. Correct use is to push the plug in, then twist the plug to lock it in place. The ring is to keep it from falling out. If you don't twist the plug, the electrical contacts are NOT fully engaged. Not completely engaging the contacts increases the possibility of the suffering OP's issue.

[babock]

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

It's called a twist lock for a reason. Correct use is to push the plug in, then twist the plug to lock it in place. The ring is to keep it from falling out. If you don't twist the plug, the electrical contacts are NOT fully engaged. Not completely engaging the contacts increases the possibility of the suffering OP's issue.

Turning doesn't increase the surface area of contact. Look inside the female end of a shore power cord. There is contact across the entire width. That is not the issue here.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by Deputy382

I think that is what I might do, just get another one and wire it in myself. If not they will charge me for install which is labor I can do.

Yep...............New Receptacle New cord end, and call it done! I might eve take the opportunity to go for one of those new "Smart Plug" connectors that don't twist on.

https://shop.opticsplanet.com/smartp...BoCHf8QAvD_BwE

[spicercars]

You should always have one of these. Made by camco and there cheap. You can monitor your voltage.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by spicercars

You should always have one of these. Made by camco and there cheap. You can monitor your voltage.

Shows voltage, but doesn't show the temperature of the outlet as it's melting. Until the actual connections are compromised, it's going to show voltage is there.

[Sunseeker16]

Good thoughts here. In my case where one pinned burned, it didn't have anything to do with the twist lock or the ring. Those contact surfaces were fine. Mine was loose factory connections inside the coach wall. Even the ones that didn't burn were loose. This was a real fire hazard because there is a lot of wood in the area. The plug goes through the wall behind the wardrobe.

[mfMcFroggierPod]

Use a DIGITAL voltage gauge. I had a analog gauge and the needle sticks/not responsive. I also have a power mgmt system. Use caution when A/C falls below 108v. You mentioned arching at the breaker contacts where it contacts the buss bar at power pole. I would have to guess this CG had power problems. A lot of 30 connections are weak. I use a cheapo dogbone 30A Male/Female so it does not burn up my $100+ power cord or I just don’t us the electric service. This past trip 2 experiences with poor connections. I had Mx replace the pole socket which he was doing wrong...Next place weak connections; so I used my propane services instead. This does not help if it is hot and air conditioning is needed! Campgrounds need to understand the hazards of weak connections! Too many with faults. I even thought of carrying a spare 30 socket to provide them of course at a fee for the part. The first event Mx brought a used one. What the Heck!!! You got really lucky. Safe Travels

[wszApex245]

The upper left picture indicate the heat was localized around the upper left contact/blade. The upper right picture again indicates significant heat in a particular portion of the receptacle which appears to be the upper left contact/blade. The lower picture may indicate a significant amount of heat where the Romex cable entered the receptacle. Without a better picture of the area around the Romex and the receptacle the diagnosis is a bit complicated. I would bet the connection in the receptacle where the Romex cable terminated was loose and came that way from the factory. Disassembly of the receptacle would identify if the connection was loose or if the technician at the factory removed too many strands.

The sparking pedestal should not cause this problem and would cause other issues.

I am shocked the campground owner would cut a camper’s wires and then hard wire the connection. The liability alarms are ringing off the chart. That is probably why the pedestal was arcing.

If you do not own a pedestal or hardwired Energy Managment System like Progressive Industries (https://www.progressiveindustries.net/) you should consider investing in one to protect yourself from campground owners like this one. The EMS probably would have prevented this.

[lewisra]

Originally Posted by wszApex245

The EMS probably would have prevented this.

This was the question that came to mind. True or False? External or hardwired would it have mattered?

[wszApex245]

Originally Posted by lewisra

This was the question that came to mind. True or False? External or hardwired would it have mattered?

lewisra, since this occurred in the circuit between the pedestal and the main breaker, I believe an EMS at either location would have detected a low voltage In the circuit and I hope shut down the circuit.

I personally have a hardwired EMS so I do not forget it at the campground or home, fail to install it, and so I can monitor the incoming power while I am inside.

The importance the monitoring became more clear recently after I installed a Victron Multiplus 3000 inverter in my trailer. I hooked up to a 50 amp service and the 30 amp main tripped. I was a bit confused until I reset the breaker and the found the inverter was pulling a stable 33amp through the EMS. What I discovered is the Inverter was shipped programmed to draw a maximum of 50 amps. Since then I have learned how to adjust the inverter current draw based on the available service.