Fried 30 amp inlet this weekend, repair question

[babock]

Originally Posted by wszApex245

lewisra, since this occurred in the circuit between the pedestal and the main breaker, I believe an EMS at either location would have detected a low voltage In the circuit and I hope shut down the circuit.

I personally have a hardwired EMS so I do not forget it at the campground or home, fail to install it, and so I can monitor the incoming power while I am inside.

The importance the monitoring became more clear recently after I installed a Victron Multiplus 3000 inverter in my trailer. I hooked up to a 50 amp service and the 30 amp main tripped. I was a bit confused until I reset the breaker and the found the inverter was pulling a stable 33amp through the EMS. What I discovered is the Inverter was shipped programmed to draw a maximum of 50 amps. Since then I have learned how to adjust the inverter current draw based on the available service.

I disagree. If the EMS was hardwired after a connector that was producing a voltage drop, it would fault out and one at the pedestal would obviously not detect that.

[wszApex245]

Originally Posted by babock

I disagree. If the EMS was hardwired after a connector that was producing a voltage drop, it would fault out and one at the pedestal would obviously not detect that.

Babcock (babock) is correct that if you have something in the circuit causing a resistance, such as a bad shoreline connection, the hardwired unit would identify something a pedestal unit would not.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by campers302

Will this cover existing hole?
I do not like the existing plug like this gentleman had burn up on him.
Thanks

Yes, it will cover the existing hole.

Their website states it will even use the same screw holes.

[campers302]

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

It's my understanding that the twist lock connector has been around for a long time. It was initially created to connect machines in a shop. Most often the machine was plugged in by a professional installer and then never touched. At some point it was repurposed for use by the RV industry, possibly to answer people who wanted to separately store their power cords and save space.

In that environment they are fine. When you have a TT that is constantly moving and even though you have the retainer screwed down all the way tight there is still movement which can cause arching. This is just my opinion.


Also why the heck is the retainer fine thread? Do they do that so we can cross thread it easier. Should be course thread for faster tightening.

[Tombsy]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

Yes, it will cover the existing hole.

Their website states it will even use the same screw holes.

Yes, I installed one of these and it covers the old hole. The Smart Plug comes with great instructions as well.

[Cosmos]

Originally Posted by Deputy382

Sorry, I was unsure which forum this went in. This weekend my A/C went off so I went over to the breaker on the post and it wasn't tripped. I turned it off and back on and the A/C came back on. After leaving to go swim for 5 hours I came back to no A/C. I tried to remove my 30 amp cord from the camper and it was melted on. After some work I was able to get it off. I called the desk and the owner came back and cut my cord and inlet off and wired them together and the power came back on. Later that night it went off again. I went out to the box to turn the breaker off and back on and sparks came out when I touched the breaker.

Did I void any warranty by altering the 30 amp inlet (cutting it off). Should I put a new one on myself and get another cord? I have a service scheduled on Sept 23 for some other issues. Should I let them fix it?

I have a 2020 Wolf Pup and have used it 3 times (3 months old). The last time I used it the shore power cable (neutral) melted!!!. the dealer acted like this never happened before. Well, this forum tells me that this may have been a problem for several years now. Very dangerous! No indications other than a smoldered shore cable end and scorched receptacle. Only notice when leaving the camp ground.

I took it to the dealer. It took a week for them to tell me that Forest river will cover this under warranty. But!!! "It may be several more weeks until the parts come in from China." I have lost the Summer months for camping due to something that should never happen. Further, the shore cable and 30 amp plug could be purchased almost anywhere. But!!!!! "I have to wait for OEM parts to get this repaired under warranty."
See attached photos. How can this be prevented?

[babock]

Originally Posted by Cosmos

I have a 2020 Wolf Pup and have used it 3 times (3 months old). The last time I used it the shore power cable (neutral) melted!!!. the dealer acted like this never happened before. Well, this forum tells me that this may have been a problem for several years now. Very dangerous! No indications other than a smoldered shore cable end and scorched receptacle. Only notice when leaving the camp ground.

I took it to the dealer. It took a week for them to tell me that Forest river will cover this under warranty. But!!! "It may be several more weeks until the parts come in from China." I have lost the Summer months for camping due to something that should never happen. Further, the shore cable and 30 amp plug could be purchased almost anywhere. But!!!!! "I have to wait for OEM parts to get this repaired under warranty."
See attached photos. How can this be prevented?

Making sure the wires on the other side of the trailer plug are tight. Have you taken it off and seen if that particular input was loose?

Personally, I would have not even bothered with the warranty and just bought my own plug and installed it. Not even worth the effort hitching it up and bringing to the dealer.

[Jfkmk]

Originally Posted by campers302

In that environment they are fine. When you have a TT that is constantly moving and even though you have the retainer screwed down all the way tight there is still movement which can cause arching. This is just my opinion.


Also why the heck is the retainer fine thread? Do they do that so we can cross thread it easier. Should be course thread for faster tightening.

How much is your camper moving with the shore power connected?? Ther is no way the tiny bit of shake a parked camper gets can cause arcing, especially with the retainer tightened.

I agree on the fine threads though...what the heck were they thinking?

[rsdata]

Mike Sokol the RV Electric guru, just published ( Aug 29) an article about how to HELP keep melting POWER plugs from happening.

RV Electricity – How to keep your shore power connections clean and cool

As promised, here’s a brief tutorial on how to clean your shore power plug contacts to help prevent overheating. Note that if the pedestal outlet is already damaged simply cleaning your own plug will do little to prevent damage from overheating. But at least you’ll know that you’ve done everything possible on your end of things.

Read entire article HERE...

https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electric...ections-clean/

[Cosmos]

Originally Posted by Cosmos

I have a 2020 Wolf Pup and have used it 3 times (3 months old). The last time I used it the shore power cable (neutral) melted!!!. the dealer acted like this never happened before. Well, this forum tells me that this may have been a problem for several years now. Very dangerous! No indications other than a smoldered shore cable end and scorched receptacle. Only notice when leaving the camp ground.

I took it to the dealer. It took a week for them to tell me that Forest river will cover this under warranty. But!!! "It may be several more weeks until the parts come in from China." I have lost the Summer months for camping due to something that should never happen. Further, the shore cable and 30 amp plug could be purchased almost anywhere. But!!!!! "I have to wait for OEM parts to get this repaired under warranty."
See attached photos. How can this be prevented?

I gave up on the OEM replacement and went for the 30 Amp Smart Plug. I did not want to get the same potential problem back.

[Sunseeker16]

Looks similar to my 2016 3010 DS. When I removed the three screws from the plug that mounts to the coach wall and gently pulled out the slack in the cable, the whole plug came off the wire that goes to the inverter. Not only was the burnt connection loose, the other two wires were loose too.

[KevK]

I was considering rewiring my RV to have the newer twist connection but now I think I'm going to stay with my original pull-out cord. Never realized the twist connectors were so finicky and the Smart Plug is on the pricey side for what it is.

[PharrOut]

A EMS could have saved u from burning up your wiring if it was a low voltage issue. I’m assuming you are not using one. I never plug in without one,some camp grounds have some questionable hook ups.

[babock]

You will have the exact same problem with the Smart Plug if the wire on the back side of the plug is loose which is likely the problem the OP had.

[lp98gold]

Looking at this picture the burnt connection is the neutral , 90% on these problems are caused by over tightening the connection screws. underwriters lab test the connections and they give the manufacturers the proper torque amount to be applied to the connection point. I would say most if not all manufacturers do not have there people properly torque the connection points

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by babock

I disagree. If the EMS was hardwired after a connector that was producing a voltage drop, it would fault out and one at the pedestal would obviously not detect that.

This EMS, connected at the pedestal would have detected this problem. It comes in a 30amp and 50amp version:

https://rvpower.southwire.com/produc...a-model-34931/

https://youtu.be/3335kUMln6Y

This is one of the many benefits of the Surge Guard pedestal-connected EMS over the Progressive.

Bruce

[Tombsy]

Originally Posted by lp98gold

Looking at this picture the burnt connection is the neutral , 90% on these problems are caused by over tightening the connection screws. underwriters lab test the connections and they give the manufacturers the proper torque amount to be applied to the connection point. I would say most if not all manufacturers do not have there people properly torque the connection points

It’s 14-20lbs for the 30amp SmartPlug.

[Sunseeker16]

My EMS didn't detect it and I have a good one. I knew something was wrong when I tried to remove the twist lock and it wouldn't turn. I'm considering rewiring mine to a pull out if it happens again. Just eliminates a point of failure. The fewer connections the better. Besides what a better place to store the cable in wasted space behind the wardrobe.

[B and B]

I have used Twist Locks since 1970. Lighting instruments in Theatre, Television power connections, data centre UPS connections and on trailers. The big issue with RV connections is less than ideal quality as well not testing all way home to use the full part of the contact. The tightening of the trailer connections should be carried out during PDI. I doubt any dealer does this. My Rockwoods both where loose and the panel connections were as well.

[brewnut44]

Spend the money on a surge protector like southwire
This will never happen. You could have come back from your swim to a burnt down trailer. Ver lucky.