Generator Engine Run Only Operation

Rick Eddy · 07-24-2018, 10:51 AM

I have a 2014 Georgetown 377. It is powered by the Ford V10. My very low hours Onan HGJAA 7k generator is running in "Engine Run Only" mode. I cannot get any AC power out of it. Also, this happened when I was on shore power. When I disconnected during a move from shore power, I noticed my 12 volt lights and fans also did not work. I guess my steps and water pump must be direct wired because they continued to function. When the engine is running (but disconnected from shore power) the lights and fans work. Unfortunately, the generator is hard mounted so I can't reach anything in the back. Looking for someone more knowledgeable than I (wouldn't take much) for help. Thank you.

Kevin & Judy · 07-24-2018, 10:54 AM

Check the breaker on the generator. May be tripped.

Rick Eddy · 07-24-2018, 01:53 PM

I have 2- 30 amp breaker switches next to the start switch on the generator. They were both in the "on" position. Reset them both but no luck. I found 2 breaker switches by the house batteries under the steps and reset them. Now the 12 volt system is working no current still from generator, however.

rk06382 · 07-24-2018, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Eddy

I have a 2014 Georgetown 377. It is powered by the Ford V10. My very low hours Onan HGJAA 7k generator is running in "Engine Run Only" mode. I cannot get any AC power out of it. Also, this happened when I was on shore power. When I disconnected during a move from shore power, I noticed my 12 volt lights and fans also did not work. I guess my steps and water pump must be direct wired because they continued to function. When the engine is running (but disconnected from shore power) the lights and fans work. Unfortunately, the generator is hard mounted so I can't reach anything in the back. Looking for someone more knowledgeable than I (wouldn't take much) for help. Thank you.

Do you have an automatic transfer switch for the generator? Or do you have to plug your power cord into the generator outlet?

"When I disconnected during a move from shore power, I noticed my 12 volt lights and fans also did not work."
The loss of 12v DC means a break between the batteries and the 12v fuse panel. You would get 12v DC from your converter when on shore power. The 12v disconnect switch and a 12v circuit breaker are in-line between the batteries and the fuse panel. Check in your battery compartment for the in-line circuit breaker.

Rick Eddy · 07-24-2018, 04:53 PM

My 12 volt is working. Apparently it was just a breaker that was under the steps that I was able to reset. However, my 120 volt from the generator is still not working. We've been in some heavy electrical storms on the East Coast. I don't know if this is a problem because I have an in-line surge protector on the shore power. Thanks. I have a direct connect between 12 volt and 120 volt. I don't have a plug in.

ScottBrownstein · 07-24-2018, 05:25 PM

SOunds like your transfer switch is hung. Give it a wrap with a screwdriver and see if it triggers.

If you are comfortable with a multimeter, open the cover and see if the generator feed has 120 volts on it. It needs to see voltage from the generator and then waits 15 seconds or so before switching over to generator power.

The switch is in a metal box in the rear power bay. Documentation is attached.

bubbles · 07-24-2018, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

SOunds like your transfer switch is hung. Give it a wrap with a screwdriver and see if it triggers.

If you are comfortable with a multimeter, open the cover and see if the generator feed has 120 volts on it. It needs to see voltage from the generator and then waits 15 seconds or so before switching over to generator power.

The switch is in a metal box in the rear power bay. Documentation is attached.

I could be wrong but the contactor actuation happens because 12 volts from the genny is applied to the coil not because of AC genny power for a length of time. The genny will output the 12 volts after it stabilizes. I think the OP should check for 120 volts at the contactor, on the genny side and 12 volts to the contactor coil. Like I said, I could be wrong.

Rick Eddy · 07-25-2018, 12:34 PM

Thanks for all your help. It looks like it might have somewhat on a problem with the contacts. Found the control board and started playing with it. Tapped the transfer switch and removed and put back in the wire harness. I started up the generator. The blue breaker switch on the generator side started to make contact but would not stay closed. I held it in while it clicked a few times and then it remained closed. I started the generator 3-4 times, and after 20 seconds or so the breaker closed and remained closed and AC power went to the motor home. Maybe a bit of corrosion on the contacts. This is probably due to me not putting a load on the generator often enough. A lesson learned. Thanks to all of you for all your in steering me in the right direction.

kenandterry · 07-25-2018, 12:55 PM

Congrats on fixing your generator issues.

Yes....it doesn’t matter which brand (I have a Generac) versus Onan....it’s important to exercise the genny at least once a month. By that I mean, run it for at least an hour....longer is better....but make it work under load. Turn on the air conditioners, microwave, electric heater, toaster or hair dryer....not all at once though.

Even when I’m at a full service campground, if there’s no one around to disturb, I switch over to the genny to run things. Also....if driving in very hot weather, it may be necessary to drive with the genny running in order to run the rooftop air conditioners just to keep things comfortable inside. It’s good exercise. Don’t be afraid to use the genny. They can cause troubles if you don’t.

CHICKDOE · 07-25-2018, 01:10 PM

just wanted to comment on post #7. our transfer switch does not have any provision for 12 vdc going into it and our generator (onan 5500) does not produce any 12 volt dc power. it does require 12 vdc power to run which it pulls from the batteries.

bubbles · 07-25-2018, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

just wanted to comment on post #7. our transfer switch does not have any provision for 12 vdc going into it and our generator (onan 5500) does not produce any 12 volt dc power. it does require 12 vdc power to run which it pulls from the batteries.

As said, I could be wrong and I am wrong .

ScottBrownstein · 07-25-2018, 02:46 PM

Nope. Transfer switches don't use anything but the 120 volts from the generator.

bend302 · 07-25-2018, 05:02 PM

When I bought my '05 it was 5 yrs old and had very low generator hours. Turned out not to be a positive. Genny never would run more than 15 mins before it shut down.

Had the carburetor cleaned, and complete tune up. Since then it has performed flawlessly. I run it every time we travel. Usually we will eat lunch at a rest area and we run the genny to operate the AC and microwave, etc. I. Also run it when we drive in hot weather to add extra cooling from the front AC.

Bill

Rick Eddy · 08-13-2018, 10:13 AM

Well, it looks like I spoke too soon. I went to start my generator. It starts fine, but I'm not getting A/C power to MH. I did the same things that got it working last time but it didn't help. I pulled the small electrical harness off the circuit board and cleaned the contacts. I tried to get the breaker to close by holding it in. That didn't seem to help. I'm wondering if it might be the circuit board. I'd like to get the board out and have it tested. I can't seem to figure out how to remove it though. It looks like 2 plastic clips (one on each side). But it also looks like I'd break them if I tried to bend them out of the way. I should add that I put a small amount of dielectric grease on the contacts. Any thoughts? Thanks for the help.

CHICKDOE · 08-13-2018, 10:31 AM

you never said what make / model transfer switch you have. do you have the manual for it and have you looked at the troubleshooting section? perhaps a call to the manufacturer is needed.

from what you say the contacts are not moving when the generator is providing power. there might be a bypass option that you could use to see if the contacts actually move and make contact to the generator power. look closely at the terminals where the generator power connects to make sure they are tight and not corroded. also, use a multimeter to verify that you actually have 110 vac power at the generator input terminals.

needless to say, be very careful when working around live 110 vac power. disconnect shore power.

Rick Eddy · 08-13-2018, 11:20 AM

It looks like some of my original thread got cut off. I have an Onan 5500kw generator. The gen is in engine run only mode and will not carry A/C power to the motor home. Based on some good advice from this forum, I was able to get it running. I took off the wiring harness to the circuit board and cleaned it up (not dirty though). The transfer breaker would not stay closed but after playing with the harness and holding the breaker in, it clicked a few times and remained closed. I repeated the process 4-5 times and the breaker closed and remained closed by itself. I thought it might have been a corrosion problem because I haven't run the gen very much. However, I seem to be having the same problem again and the switch will not stay closed. I'm wondering if it might be the circuit board.

CHICKDOE · 08-13-2018, 11:48 AM

i may have misunderstood. are you saying the problem is within the generator itself? somehow i got the impression the problem was with the transfer switch that switches between shore and generator power. from rereading i think you are saying the contactors with the generator are not staying closed and outputting power from the generator. when you say it is running in engine run only mode this is not something that you set. you are just saying the generator motor is running but you are not getting any electrical power out. correct?

we have an onan 5500 also. the fact that you say it tries to close the contactors but they will not stay closed is bothersome. there may be some monitoring going on within the generator that would cause it to open the contactors. things like frequency, voltage, etc. does the motor continue to run or does it shut down? if it shuts down are any error codes being flashed on the on/off switch? there is a time delay built into the generator to not allow it to close the contactors until it is warmed up, but this would not explain the repeated close / open cycling.

when i had an issue with our 5500 generator i tried to contact onan for help, but basically all i got was a polite reply saying i should take it to one of their service centers. there are independent repair services, some of them mobile that service onan products.

yes it could be the circuit board, but it might be something else. i wish i could help more .

Rick Eddy · 08-14-2018, 08:24 AM

Chickdoe you are correct, the problem is with the transfer switch not remaining closed. I get a flashing red light on my starter switch which the manual says only that it's in "Engine Run Only" mode and is not putting out the A/C. However, as I said I was able to get it running (and keep the transfer switch closed). That's not working now and I don't know why. I thought it might be a corrosion problem on the contacts and that I had the problem solved. That does not seem to be the case. I kind of feel like it's a control board problem now.

CHICKDOE · 08-14-2018, 08:48 AM

it doesn't sound like the actual electric contacts themselves. they would be a problem if the switch closed but did not conduct electricity. you say the switch stutters and will not stay closed. sure it could be the control board but i do not know if this is the real problem. somehow the control board, or related sensors, have to monitor for stable power being generated and when they sense that they will power the electromagnet to close the contacts. they have to sense proper voltage and frequency. what if there is a problem elsewhere so that the control board isn't sensing stable power?

this is beyond my pay grade. there are people out there that know the insides of these generators. i don't. i hate to have you replace the board and not fix the problem. but i can't tell you not to. one thought. there is a company in oregon (i think) called dinosaur electronics that makes replacement control boards, including ones for onan. many people on the forum give them great reviews for their products and customer support. you might want to give them a call to see if they have any ideas.

hope you get a fix. if you do would you please post it as i'd like to know what it was.

Rick Eddy · 08-14-2018, 10:06 AM

Thank you Chickdoe for your help.

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