We would like to be able to operate our camper to it's fullest potential (within reason) while dry camping at motocross tracks over the weekend.
I own a Husky brand generator that is a 5,500 (6,500 starting watt) generator.
For some reason it will run the A/C for just a few minutes then it will trip the breaker on the generator and it will no longer run the A/C. I can run my A/C off of a 120 outlet at my shop no problem. This is a 30 AMP trailer so it's not like I am trying to run 2 A/C units off of it. When it trips the generator breaker I am only running the A/C and a few small lights inside the camper. When I reset the breaker and try turning the A/C back on you will hear it pull the generator motor down...and it tries but can't get the A/C to start.
My generator will run lights, tools etc.. no problem. But not the A/C on my camper....I am not a electrical competent person. So I have resorted to buying a new generator to fix this issue.
A 30a R/V at capacity is 3600 watts.
A 30a shore power circuit can handle slightly more than the 3600w when there is an excessive inrush of current. If your wanting your R/V to behave the same on a generator as when on shore power then look for something in the 4000-4500w range.
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The AC start up current can be quite high since there is an inductive spike starting the compressor and the fan motor. Also known as LRA (Locked Rotor Amps) it can be as high as 58 amps (like my 15k Coleman Mach 3 shown here). That is 6,960 Watts.
Now that only lasts until the compressor and the fan start turning and the amperage drops quickly (a few seconds) to its Running Amps (RLA + FLA) (like my Coleman 15.3 amps).
Your house wall circuit breakers are time delay trip based on the degree of overload BUT the inverter in your generator is not. Even a half of an amp of overload will result in an immediate trip of a generator.
The solution is to install the Micro-Air SoftStart computer in your air conditioner. This small box is pretty cool (but pricey). It is worth every penny.
It basically (VERY) pulses small low amperage spurts of electricity to the fan motor to get it up to speed. Then it pulses small low amperage spurts to the compressor to bring it up to speed. That way it avoids the 58 amp spike for a few hundred microseconds completely.
I have run my 15k Coleman Mach 3 on a 2000 watt peak Honda with no issues and since I installed one in each of my 2 air conditioners, I can run both on a 30 amp campground service.
On the plus side they are easy to install and easy to remove and take with you when you upgrade to another camper.
Are you plugging into a 20 amp outlet or does this generator have a RV 30 amp outlet?
This is a very good question.
If your generator is a 220 volt construction type generator, you will only get the power available on each of the 20 amp duplex outlets. (20x120 = 2400 watts maximum.) This is NOT enough to run your AC without installing the Micro-Air.
Be VERY careful about using an adapter to use the 220 volt round socket to power your travel trailer. Most adapters that adapt the round 220 socket to the socket that LOOKS like your travel trailer's plug will put 220 volts to your camper and fry a lot of your 120 volt appliances.
Always measure the voltage across the socket BEFORE you plug into an unknown power source like an adapter (especially one made up by a friend who is an electrician).
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
micro air is expensive just get a $13.00 SPP6 from amazon it will take out the inrush to start the AC. I had to do it with my 3500watt generator. The Micro air does not lower your FLA running only the startup. HerK7796 is right about the 220V 30 amp being cut in half by pulling off the one side as 110. 15amp. running my converter, frig, and ac it pulls 15Amps constant.
micro air is expensive just get a $13.00 SPP6 from amazon it will take out the inrush to start the AC. I had to do it with my 3500watt generator. The Micro air does not lower your FLA running only the startup. HerK7796 is right about the 220V 30 amp being cut in half by pulling off the one side as 110. 15amp. running my converter, frig, and ac it pulls 15Amps constant.
I had one I gave away free. Useless for this purpose; especially in hot weather.
Would not reliably start my 15k Coleman Mach 3 with my Yamaha EF3000iSEB
Save your money and buy the correct fix for your issue.
Starting and Running Amps well within the range of a Honda 2000 in economy mode with the Micro-Air EasyStart.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
The AC start up current can be quite high since there is an inductive spike starting the compressor and the fan motor. Also known as LRA (Locked Rotor Amps) it can be as high as 58 amps (like my 15k Coleman Mach 3 shown here). That is 6,960 Watts.
Now that only lasts until the compressor and the fan start turning and the amperage drops quickly (a few seconds) to its Running Amps (RLA + FLA) (like my Coleman 15.3 amps).
Your house wall circuit breakers are time delay trip based on the degree of overload BUT the inverter in your generator is not. Even a half of an amp of overload will result in an immediate trip of a generator.
The solution is to install the Micro-Air SoftStart computer in your air conditioner. This small box is pretty cool (but pricey). It is worth every penny.
It basically (VERY) pulses small low amperage spurts of electricity to the fan motor to get it up to speed. Then it pulses small low amperage spurts to the compressor to bring it up to speed. That way it avoids the 58 amp spike for a few hundred microseconds completely.
I have run my 15k Coleman Mach 3 on a 2000 watt peak Honda with no issues and since I installed one in each of my 2 air conditioners, I can run both on a 30 amp campground service.
On the plus side they are easy to install and easy to remove and take with you when you upgrade to another camper.
We would like to be able to operate our camper to it's fullest potential (within reason) while dry camping at motocross tracks over the weekend.
I own a Husky brand generator that is a 5,500 (6,500 starting watt) generator.
For some reason it will run the A/C for just a few minutes then it will trip the breaker on the generator and it will no longer run the A/C. I can run my A/C off of a 120 outlet at my shop no problem. This is a 30 AMP trailer so it's not like I am trying to run 2 A/C units off of it. When it trips the generator breaker I am only running the A/C and a few small lights inside the camper. When I reset the breaker and try turning the A/C back on you will hear it pull the generator motor down...and it tries but can't get the A/C to start.
My generator will run lights, tools etc.. no problem. But not the A/C on my camper....I am not a electrical competent person. So I have resorted to buying a new generator to fix this issue.
My camper is a 2019 Salem 27DBK.
Search for a fast start capacitor for you A/C. I put one in mine to fix the same problem you are having. It is easy to install. Check with the manufacturer and they can give you the part number. I have used a 5000 watt generator with no problem. I have an onboard Onan that is 4000 watts and I can run the A/C, lights, refrigerator, TV, and phone and battery chargers at the same time.
I had one I gave away free. Useless for this purpose; especially in hot weather.
Would not reliably start my 15k Coleman Mach 3 with my Yamaha EF3000iSEB
Save your money and buy the correct fix for your issue.
Starting and Running Amps well within the range of a Honda 2000 in economy mode with the Micro-Air EasyStart.
For me the SPP6 works flawless I just had to get my Preditor generator to not cross 29Amps or it would trip out. It can run in eco mode how ever when sleeping we leave on the AC fan so we do not get waken with everything at one coming on. There are also less expensive alternatives to the Micro start:
Brand new AC cost $600.00 if a $13.00 rig will start my AC with out issue Its a Math thing for me. I will keep my $300.00 and spend it on a new AC years down the road (IF it ever goes bad). (IF)
I would absolutely recommend you consider purchasing a Champion 100573. It's an 3500 running watts inverter genset w/ remote start & 30A 120v TT outlet built right into the unit.
For Inrush current; One component strategically install for $10 no capacitor no relay no $300 dollar module. Just one component to limit current. (MS35 10018)
Remember you will be needing two, one for the compressor and one for the fan motor. You would also need a delay relay in order to start the fan first; then power the compressor.
In addition to limiting the inrush current, the MicroAir Easy Start stages the compressor start behind the fan start reducing the total start up current used to get everything going.
The fan current is slowly increased until the fan comes up to speed and stabilizes; then the compressor motor current is slowly increased until the compressor is on speed. It also provides a compressor time out should you accidently turn the AC OFF and immediately try to start it again.
All in all, though expensive, I think it is a near perfect solution to running the AC on an inverter generator and during low voltage campground power situations.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
I'm not handy with wiring something this complex! Would a mobile rv repair person be qualified to do this? Makes me nervous having just anyone attach new wiring to my camper. I don't want to jeopardize its reliability.
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