Go Power expansion or new Renogy panels?

[Captain Insaino]

Originally Posted by NJKris

I actually contacted Renogy about this and complained. They affirmed it is important to avoid controller damage that battery must be hooked up first. Their solution was to cover then panels to stop current flow to controller. yeah, real easy to do taking panels out of protective sleeve. An inline breaker on the pos output for panel was easiest solution.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089LGJGSZ...roduct_details


I don't think it's just Renogy. My GoPower controller manual says same thing.

I guess you can never have too many fuses! I may do the same so I don't lay awake thinking about it.

[NJKris]

Hardest part was cutting outer jacket of cable on the Renogy panel pigtail, without cutting wires inside, to pull some of positive wire out to install inline breaker on.

[rk06382]

I installed a 60 Amp inline Circuit Breaker from the solar array to the Victron MPPT & on the MPPT output to the batteries. (as/per Victron recommendations).

Note: the picture below was taken before I upgraded the battery side from (green) 50a to (blue) 60a in Spring 2020. Working without issues since.

[BOO-BOO-IS-IN-CAMP]

Originally Posted by NJKris

The OEM wiring is 8 gauge. Has no problem keeping my FLA's at 100%. Since the Li batt likes higher voltage during charging, I went with the 6 gauge for that battery bank, leaving the 8 gauge as is for now to the lead.



As for beer temp, I cringe when a bar pours a good beer into a frosted glass. I'm a bit of a beer snob, used to be a brewer. When beer is too cold, it hides the good flavors/aromas. But it also hides not so so good flavors of cheaper beer, so not all bad!


***Wire run length. I was surprised how much wire I needed to buy for the Li project. I only have a 20' trailer, with a ~17.5' box. By the time you run the cable down through wall from OEM controller, over side rail of frame, then up to where battery is, I'm estimating 25' run. I bought 30' lengths so I don't come up short on install. (Windy Nation).

Kris i went down my frig vent short cut but i have a 2608ws i removed the microwave & stove to get mine set up but this yr im adder to the set up
i use # 8 gage on my solar it keeps up but i put fuses wall mart sterieo fueses you can get the big fuses up to 80 amp's mounted them under the sink to the wall in the connection to bat and to the controled wair the solor comes in this way i just pull the batt fuse then i pull fuse to solar i have never covered the panels iv built quit a few systems for all my rv an house they probably say that becouse most people are not fermilier with the power or the diode in the box on the solar panel if you short them out you probably can damage the panels or the controler ...

2000 Dodge ram 3500 dully 5.9 cummins
2014 rock wood 2608ws UL full on customizing
Two side kicks Zoie & Cre

[Captain Insaino]

Kris, I keep forgetting that you are using portable. I have a cutoff and an inline fuse. But I AM going to make large signs for myself at each end to remind myself of the sequence.

[NJKris]

I have the OEM 100w panel on roof, and two 100w suitcases. Holy smokes, rk is a rolling power plant! 600 ah of batteries and 800w of solar panels! Only 100 bucks per amp hour!

[rk06382]

Originally Posted by NJKris

I have the OEM 100w panel on roof, and two 100w suitcases. Holy smokes, rk is a rolling power plant! 600 ah of batteries and 800w of solar panels! Only 100 bucks per amp hour!

I wanted a system that was simple enough for my wife to use. The Samlex EVO-3012 Inverter/Charger is on 24/7. It is like having a Uninterruptible Power Supply for the motorhome. I only do a generator test once a month.

With the Battle Born ten year warranty & no battery corrosion, I have a low maintenance system. I only need to clean the solar panels.