Going Lithium

[doanshop]

Originally Posted by Tabasco_Joe

A couple of thoughts on selected components:

The temperature controller mentioned has a poor quality track record. If I used one I'd make sure it had the 3.3V regulator. It seems like most of the issues are from those that have the regulator eliminated for cost savings.

That solid state relay has been reported to have a rather high voltage drop at high current. This will reduce charging time, waste more of any solar charge energy, and possibly confuse the charge controller charging profile. Might consider a bypass switch to turn on during warm weather. Or find a switch with lower internal resistance.

Also I'd suggest a Schottky rectifier in place of a silicon one. It reduces voltage drop. Maybe even pair two in parallel to further reduce voltage drop. It's not a stud but Vishay VS-175BGQ030HF4 would work. About $9 from Mouser. (I didn't check on Amazon.) I'm sure some research could find others at slightly lower cost. As far as I can tell the Accrie rectifier is silicon. By parralelling two Schottkys you can get the drop down to about 0.3 V. As with the stud, these should be heat sunk.

Joe that's what they say but you don't know if they overloaded it, they could use whatever suits them this is what I used and is still working. As for ssr I think that mostly applies to A/C loads have-not seen any problems still charges to 100 or 99% with my setup. As I said they can use whatever they want to this works, and I found out a long time ago if it isn't broke don't fix it

I'm just setting the foundation they can build with whatever they want to just trying to give ideas .
And remember I only cutting the charging circuit from converter not the circuit to inverter

[Tabasco_Joe]

Originally Posted by doanshop

Joe that's what they say but you don't know if they overloaded it, they could use whatever suits them this is what I used and is still working. As for ssr I think that mostly applies to A/C loads have-not seen any problems still charges to 100 or 99% with my setup. As I said they can use whatever they want to this works, and I found out a long time ago if it isn't broke don't fix it

I'm just setting the foundation they can build with whatever they want to just trying to give ideas .
And remember I only cutting the charging circuit from converter not the circuit to inverter

I applaud your creativity and willingness to investigate solutions.

I do understand how your circuit works.

The temperature controllers are not blowing up because they are overloaded. When the regulator is removed and replaced by a resistor, they are running the processor chip beyond it's rated operating voltage.

I'm just providing some thoughts as an experienced engineer that can improve the concept.

[doanshop]

Originally Posted by doanshop

OK been there done it you need this to control charging circuit or your power from converter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...Q280RHPK&psc=1 it controls this ssr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...VYV0WHGPJ&th=1 >it has worked for me I had to install this so I would have power when ssr is open https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I won't go into wiring because if you don't understand what was done you need to search and read pluse I don't want to be responsible if done wrong sorry .If you know motor controls and wiring it should be easy for you
I also installed these to heat batteries https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1 same temp controller will turn on heaters but I used 120 because if you are going to charge batteries you need power to charge batteries and solar, I found was not enough for 200-amp .300 wat solar so I used gen to heat and charge batteries .I hope this helps you

Remember 400 watts solar will only give you 15 to 19 amps charging. Say you get 15 amps out of solar 200-amp battery will take 13 hours to charge you don't have that much day light may only charge 40 to 50 % each day you lose battery SOC. On a good day I get 10 to 14 amps out of 300 watts solar I have two 100-amp lithium's 5 to 7 amps goes to each battery anyway just my findings. hope this helps

[doanshop]

One other thing I went with two 100-amp batteries so if one would die, I still have one to try to salvage trip. If you have one battery and it would die trip would be over.

[W5CRE]

Originally Posted by doanshop

Remember 400 watts solar will only give you 15 to 19 amps charging. Say you get 15 amps out of solar 200-amp battery will take 13 hours to charge you don't have that much day light may only charge 40 to 50 % each day you lose battery SOC. On a good day I get 10 to 14 amps out of 300 watts solar I have two 100-amp lithium's 5 to 7 amps goes to each battery anyway just my findings. hope this helps

Good numbers, but, when's the last time you charged a totally dead 200 ah battery using only solar?

IMHO your system is a bit under solar paneled or do you also run extra solar or generator when needed?

I find that, although 200 watts solar per 100ah of battery is a very good rule of thumb, it will fail to cover those bad strings of solar days. Where as going a little over on the solar, when you can, really helps. Even if it's a couple 100 watts of portable solar. I do not like generators, but, when it rains, and rains, and rains, you just gotta do what you must.

[doanshop]

Originally Posted by Tabasco_Joe

I applaud your creativity and willingness to investigate solutions.

I do understand how your circuit works.

The temperature controllers are not blowing up because they are overloaded. When the regulator is removed and replaced by a resistor, they are running the processor chip beyond it's rated operating voltage.

I'm just providing some thoughts as an experienced engineer that can improve the concept.

Joe when I did this, I was flying by the seat of my pants I just used what I could get cheap to see if I could make it work after doing it, I had other ideas how to improve it but like I stated earlier if it's not broke don't fix it LOL.

[doanshop]

Originally Posted by W5CRE

Good numbers, but, when's the last time you charged a totally dead 200 ah battery using only solar?

IMHO your system is a bit under solar paneled or do you also run extra solar or generator when needed?

I find that, although 200 watts solar per 100ah of battery is a very good rule of thumb, it will fail to cover those bad strings of solar days. Where as going a little over on the solar, when you can, really helps. Even if it's a couple 100 watts of portable solar. I do not like generators, but, when it rains, and rains, and rains, you just gotta do what you must.

Only if it sets for weeks with no use. Camping I have to use gen Champion inverter 3500-watt remote start love it. and quiet. don't have room for more solar.
cheaper and quicker to run gen. We don't want to worry about battery power during the night or we can't run this or that because it will eat battery power batteries low run gen charge them up good to go. Fully charged I can go two days but if I run heater only 30 hours I also have a residual fridge. heater lights and fridge running use 8.5 amps 1 amps for lights and Eletronic's

[richminaya]

Well, then ... I spoke to the weather Gods and we are sending you a very nice warm-up next week. Thank me.

[doanshop]

Originally Posted by richminaya

Well, then ... I spoke to the weather Gods and we are sending you a very nice warm-up next week. Thank me.

Thank you very much and would you please close that artic fridge door up there LOL

[Half Ton Heavy]

Originally Posted by W5CRE

Good numbers, but, when's the last time you charged a totally dead 200 ah battery using only solar?

IMHO your system is a bit under solar paneled or do you also run extra solar or generator when needed?

I find that, although 200 watts solar per 100ah of battery is a very good rule of thumb, it will fail to cover those bad strings of solar days. Where as going a little over on the solar, when you can, really helps. Even if it's a couple 100 watts of portable solar. I do not like generators, but, when it rains, and rains, and rains, you just gotta do what you must.

It also depends on loads. Not using ac or coffee maker, furnace, etc, my 280ah battery will power all week with loads to spare. We have a 1500 watt coffee pot, and if we brew full (10 cups), it will take 6% of the battery. During the summer season on a great day, 30% is easy to recharge with two 100 watt panels.

[doanshop]

Originally Posted by Half Ton Heavy

It also depends on loads. Not using ac or coffee maker, furnace, etc, my 280ah battery will power all week with loads to spare. We have a 1500 watt coffee pot, and if we brew full (10 cups), it will take 6% of the battery. During the summer season on a great day, 30% is easy to recharge with two 100 watt panels.

I assume you have an asboration fridge that cuts down on a lot of amp use. If I didn't have the residential fridge I could go that long to. Don't get me wrong I like the fridge we have. I just know I have to feed it amps so everyone will be happy and cool. That is why in other posts I stated what I know now I would have forgot the solar and saved myself some money and work and just went lithium and generator but solar does help some I have 300 watts on roof and two 100-watt suitcase panels, but I just got lazy and don't put out suitcase panels just easer to run gen. If gen would die, I have the suitcase panels as backup to try and keep on camping. I don't live in the mountains where it is cool in summertime so in Kansas you want shade and shade and solar don't play well together plus we need gen to run A/C. So, fall winter and spring I can park in sun but in summertime I want shade. My main goal was to camp all night and still have plenty of battery power in the morning and I have done that. I can get up push the remote to start gen make coffee watch news and weather then get dressed and start my day. I really like the champion gen I have the remote start is the cat's meow for me. As for batteries mine are mounted on tongue I use to have to go out turn off batteries start gen let heaters warm up batteries turn on batteries let them charge now I have it automated start gen batteries warm up and start charging I don't have to worry about them it all works for me.

[doanshop]

Originally Posted by richminaya

Well, then ... I spoke to the weather Gods and we are sending you a very nice warm-up next week. Thank me.

Your gods are at work 9am 50 degrees out should get up in the 60s today thanks LOL.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by doanshop

Remember 400 watts solar will only give you 15 to 19 amps charging.

Are these the numbers you see from a "flat mounted" set of panels on the rooftop?

If so this is a good example of how a portable solar kit is so much more efficient than "flat panels".

I have two 100 w panels in series and an MPPT controller. When sun is full and panels facing it I see 13-15 amps feeding my two Battleborn batteries.

[sdelam]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Are these the numbers you see from a "flat mounted" set of panels on the rooftop?

If so this is a good example of how a portable solar kit is so much more efficient than "flat panels".

I have two 100 w panels in series and an MPPT controller. When sun is full and panels facing it I see 13-15 amps feeding my two Battleborn batteries.

I assume thats output of the controller? My last trip in early Oct. I seen 33v @ 3.5-3.8a from 2 flat mounted 100w panels in series. This resulted in around 8-9a going from the MPPT controller to the batteries on full sun days. I'm sure its a bit higher in the summer.

[doanshop]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Are these the numbers you see from a "flat mounted" set of panels on the rooftop?

If so this is a good example of how a portable solar kit is so much more efficient than "flat panels".

I have two 100 w panels in series and an MPPT controller. When sun is full and panels facing it I see 13-15 amps feeding my two Battleborn batteries.

yea Mike they are flat mounted I didn't go series because shade will knock out all panels if any are in shade from what I read I went parallel that way only the panel in shade shuts down or decreases in output. The numbers I speak about are with camper facing south at noon panels cleaned no clouds. dirty panels clouds not facing south all cut down output. What I have read series or parallel you still get the same amps out you may get a few amps more from a mppt controller only if panels are putting out 18 v controller will convert extra volts to amps but it not a game changer for me. right now, my camper is facing east I may be getting 6 amps now at 11:30 am. I have a epever 4210 an controller. If I put out the two 100watt suitcase panels I could go an extra day without running gen. I modded my generator to run off a 6-gallon fuel tank I found a guy that has a video on youtube showing how to do it and it works fuel up once a week and camp on. We just came back from two weeks boon docking deer hunting I got a 10 point buck my buddies the 4 of them bagged 12 and 14 point bucks we had a good time. We bagged a doe that we ate at the camp site.

[TitanMike]

Shade will only knock out a whole panel if the entire panel is shaded. Bypass diodes that are included in most all modern panels allow the unshaded cells to still produce.

Chances are that when chances are when one panel is totally shaded, others are as well.

The shading issue is often misunderstood as many don't understand how the bypass diodes work.

If one has 4-6 or more panels (in even amounts) ideally they would be connected in series/parallel and controlled by an MPPT controller.

Even if some were shaded the bypass diodes would keep feeding power to the controller and as long as voltage input is above threshold charge current will be flowing.

[doanshop]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Shade will only knock out a whole panel if the entire panel is shaded. Bypass diodes that are included in most all modern panels allow the unshaded cells to still produce.

Chances are that when chances are when one panel is totally shaded, others are as well.

The shading issue is often misunderstood as many don't understand how the bypass diodes work.

If one has 4-6 or more panels (in even amounts) ideally they would be connected in series/parallel and controlled by an MPPT controller.

Even if some were shaded the bypass diodes would keep feeding power to the controller and as long as voltage input is above threshold charge current will be flowing.

That's most likely right the info I read was 2-3 years ago. Don't get me wrong I'm kind of happy with the solar I know it is charging some going down the road and some camping if there is no shade just that where I camp at most of the time there are trees and sometimes, I would have to run 100' of cord to use suitcase panels and getting older just not worth the trouble knowing I will still have to run generator just easier to set up generator and not having to move solar to chase the sun for me. But glad to find out about panels the info you provided. Plus, others that read this thread may learn something. I posted about the lithium battery I installed on my generator to let others know what I found and at the same time if 10 other people come on that thread and say they did or didn't have the same problem then I would know yes, it is the battery or it is just my battery that is the problem all info helps.Thanks

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by doanshop

That's most likely right the info I read was 2-3 years ago. Don't get me wrong I'm kind of happy with the solar I know it is charging some going down the road and some camping if there is no shade just that where I camp at most of the time there are trees and sometimes, I would have to run 100' of cord to use suitcase panels and getting older just not worth the trouble knowing I will still have to run generator just easier to set up generator and not having to move solar to chase the sun for me. But glad to find out about panels the info you provided. Plus, others that read this thread may learn something. I posted about the lithium battery I installed on my generator to let others know what I found and at the same time if 10 other people come on that thread and say they did or didn't have the same problem then I would know yes, it is the battery or it is just my battery that is the problem all info helps.Thanks

That's what it's all about. Sharing information that may not be directly pertinent to the party you are respinding to's situation but for the benefit of those reading it.

On the extension cord issue, I just finished "repurposing" #10 awg, 50-foot, extension cord so I have more flexibility in placing my panels. For my portable setup it's about the max length with panels in series. In parallel I need a lot heavier gauge at 50'.

[doanshop]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

That's what it's all about. Sharing information that may not be directly pertinent to the party you are respinding to's situation but for the benefit of those reading it.

On the extension cord issue, I just finished "repurposing" #10 awg, 50-foot, extension cord so I have more flexibility in placing my panels. For my portable setup it's about the max length with panels in series. In parallel I need a lot heavier gauge at 50'.

When I got my suitcase panels, I did the same thing but with 25 ' cords 10awg to.

[doanshop]

Been busy when it was warm out removed voltx batteries needed them for trolling motor and another project. removed ssr and temp controllers. Installed these in place I hope they work and last https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N56CYS5...t_details&th=1 Will be testing out low temp charging when it gets cold enough to test.