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Old 06-11-2024, 06:58 PM   #1
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Hardwired inverter

I have a 2012 Cedar Creek 36RE touring edition. The factory 800w modified sine wave inverter went out so I replaced it with a HF 1000w pure sine. The original inverter had the residential fridge plugged into it, but there was also another cord hardwired into the inverter and the other end of the cord was plugged into a single outlet close to where the inverter is. Can someone tell me why it was like that?

The HF inverter only has the fridge cord plugged into it now, but I have a new Renogy 2000w inverter arriving tomorrow. I know the renogy has 3 outlets on it and a spot to hard wire a cord.
Just not sure why there would be another hardwired cord plugged into an outlet on the RV?
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Old 06-11-2024, 07:21 PM   #2
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I don't have a good answer for you but.... if you upgrade to a 200W inverter you WILL need to replace all the DC wiring and fuses leading to it. The factory wiring was probably barely OK for the 800W.

Jim M.
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Old 06-11-2024, 07:36 PM   #3
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I don't have a good answer for you but.... if you upgrade to a 200W inverter you WILL need to replace all the DC wiring and fuses leading to it. The factory wiring was probably barely OK for the 800W.

Jim M.
My father in law installed a 3000w renogy inverter/converter in his GD reflection and he didn't do any of that. He's been using it for a couple years now with no issues.
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Old 06-11-2024, 07:49 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by 82ndabnvet View Post
My father in law installed a 3000w renogy inverter/converter in his GD reflection and he didn't do any of that. He's been using it for a couple years now with no issues.
Doesn't mean it was done right.
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Old 06-11-2024, 07:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82ndabnvet View Post
My father in law installed a 3000w renogy inverter/converter in his GD reflection and he didn't do any of that. He's been using it for a couple years now with no issues.
the 12V wiring should be upgraded to the max you can get out of the Inverter.
the 120v can stay the same.


your Father in law may not have pulled the maximum output from the inverter

BUT if he ever does .... for any length of time... and the wiring is too small.

hopefully just a bit of melted insulation ...
but worse case you could burn down the
Hope he doesn't store flammable materials where the wiring runs...
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Old 06-11-2024, 08:02 PM   #6
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I can set up a quick demo on what 325A going through wire sized for an 800W inverter looks like. It won't be a very long video.
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Old 06-11-2024, 08:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82ndabnvet View Post
My father in law installed a 3000w renogy inverter/converter in his GD reflection and he didn't do any of that. He's been using it for a couple years now with no issues.
The good thing is that the fuse for the 800W inverter will protect you. Put in the 2000W unit and then plug in your microwave or Insta pot. The fuse will pop. Just don't replace it with a bigger fuse.

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Old 06-11-2024, 08:18 PM   #8
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there is a very common workshop equipment
uses moderate volts DC about 20 -30v
with 100amps or more

Its called a welder!
DC (battery) power is great at producing nice long hard to extinguish sparks
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Old 06-11-2024, 10:10 PM   #9
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Thanks for the info. Back to my question, does anyone know what the other hardwired cord plugged into the outlet is for?
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Old 06-12-2024, 01:28 AM   #10
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The original inverter had what's called a pass thru switch in it.
Power from the breaker box went into the inverter and back out to the fridge when on shore or generator power.
When shore or generator power was lost, the inverter took over sending power to the fridge.

Harbor Freight doesn't have that feature. Don't know if your new inverter will either but your fridge won't care if it's powered by the inverter full time.
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Old 06-12-2024, 08:17 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by 82ndabnvet View Post
Thanks for the info. Back to my question, does anyone know what the other hardwired cord plugged into the outlet is for?
As noted by Twinboat, that hardwired cord provides 120VAC power TO the inverter. When you have shore power, the inverter passes that power on to your refrigerator. When shore power is lost, the inverter will take your battery power and make 120VAC to run the refrigerator.

A cleaner install would be to wire the inverter to a circuit in your power panel rather than plugging into an outlet. Bumping up to the 2000W inverter leads me to think that you have plans for the output power beyond just the refrigerator. For more power out, you need more power in (bigger wires and fuses).
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Old 06-12-2024, 08:47 AM   #12
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if your new inverter does not have a built in transfer switch they make remote transfer switches that give you the ability to switch between shore (generator) ac power or inverter ac power. i know xantrex makes them (we have one of theirs) and i believe there are other manufacturers. do a search for 'inverter remote transfer switch'.

as far as upgrading the wiring i'd double check on this. the a/c output side may not need to be upgraded if the new inverter provides multiple a/c outputs and they are each not greater in amperage than the probably single a/c output from the original inverter. you may have more output circuits but they may be limited in how much current they can output. the dc side may well need to be upgraded. check and double check this.
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Old 06-12-2024, 03:56 PM   #13
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I appreciate the info. Thank you!
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Old 06-12-2024, 05:07 PM   #14
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I appreciate the info. Thank you!
No problem, I'm full of it.

I started with a 600W inverter to charge my computer and eBikes. It was wired to an outlet that I installed. Worked for me. Then I bumped up to a 2000W inverter, added a manual transfer switch and now run the whole trailer on it. Won't run the AC units but I'm up in the great northwest and don't need it. It is nice to have the microwave or coffeemaker running in the boonies.

My inverter is a GoWise PSW and it works great but one caution to look out for is that mine and I believe the Renogy have floating neutrals. I wired used a neutral-ground bonding plug to solve the issue. I could have done it with another set of contacts on the manual switch but the plug was easy.

When I run the whole trailer on the inverter, I turn off the converter circuit breaker so I'm not using battery power to charge my batteries. I also have the refrigerator breaker off and run it on LP.

I've run the gambit on power upgrades and always willing to share.
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Old 06-13-2024, 12:35 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by TacomaJoe View Post
No problem, I'm full of it.

I started with a 600W inverter to charge my computer and eBikes. It was wired to an outlet that I installed. Worked for me. Then I bumped up to a 2000W inverter, added a manual transfer switch and now run the whole trailer on it. Won't run the AC units but I'm up in the great northwest and don't need it. It is nice to have the microwave or coffeemaker running in the boonies.

My inverter is a GoWise PSW and it works great but one caution to look out for is that mine and I believe the Renogy have floating neutrals. I wired used a neutral-ground bonding plug to solve the issue. I could have done it with another set of contacts on the manual switch but the plug was easy.

When I run the whole trailer on the inverter, I turn off the converter circuit breaker so I'm not using battery power to charge my batteries. I also have the refrigerator breaker off and run it on LP.

I've run the gambit on power upgrades and always willing to share.
Good advice, thank you
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