High Voltage

[Duckogram]

This is a new one for me. I’m at SF RV Resort plugged into 30 Amp.
I have a hardwired PI EMS. Last night, I woke when my CPAP stopped only to find the the EMS was flashing E3 and PE3. The voltage was 133!
It’s in the high 50’s here so nobody is running A/C in the park.
So I know what to do for low voltage but no clue what to do for high voltage.

What I will not do is bypass the EMS mostly because I am running my AirCommand heat pump.

I am going to try my 50 A dog bone to see if its just the 30A leg in the pedestal.

Any ideas?

TIA Ducky

[ejohnson1144]

Is there a regular gfci on the pedestal? I would plug in the ems into that with adapter and see what it reads there.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by ejohnson1144

Is there a regular gfci on the pedestal? I would plug in the ems into that with adapter and see what it reads there.

Just finished trying all three legs on the pedestal and all three are reading 130 at this time. One of the staff came over with a good quality meter and all three are reading 122. So I broke out my deeply burried meter and sure enough, it read 122. So knowing that my power supply is good, I have switched off the PI and will be contacting them directly.

Never heard of that before.

Thanks
Ducky

[CedarCreekWoody]

My Progressive EMS reads a bit high on voltage and amps, but is apparently within specs. Yours is a bit high. I suggest you call Progressive about a replacement.

[Herk7769]

This is a campground problem. It happened to me as well and I caught it before it damaged anything. It was the straw that caused me to buy the Frank's Autotransformer and Voltage Guard.

They needed to do some maintenance on their transformer on that leg (according to the campground electrician) but since I was only staying the night and I had an extension cord, I plugged into the site behind us which was on a different circuit and OK.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Herk, this is a problem with the EMS reading too high. The voltage was fine at 122. See post number 3.

[Duckogram]

Called PI tech support. They were very helpful and suggested that I can do a manual calibration if I have the KSA or they can send me a replacement. I will try the calibration and post an update as soon as I can. BTW, when the PMS cut the power to the heat pump, my furnace kicked on automatically. It’s cold here brrrrrr.

[rk06382]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

This is a new one for me. I’m at SF RV Resort plugged into 30 Amp.
I have a hardwired PI EMS. Last night, I woke when my CPAP stopped only to find the the EMS was flashing E3 and PE3. The voltage was 133!
It’s in the high 50’s here so nobody is running A/C in the park.
So I know what to do for low voltage but no clue what to do for high voltage.

What I will not do is bypass the EMS mostly because I am running my AirCommand heat pump.

I am going to try my 50 A dog bone to see if its just the 30A leg in the pedestal.

Any ideas?

TIA Ducky

As I am read this thread and thinking of my own CPAP. I am using my Samlex EVO Inverter/Charger as my EMS, when voltage is high or low it acts like a UPS. I still have a PI surge protector for the spikes.

I sure you are tired as I can not get a good night's sleep without my CPAP. I put a 12v plug next to the bed for the CPAP.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

Called PI tech support. They were very helpful and suggested that I can do a manual calibration if I have the KSA or they can send me a replacement. I will try the calibration and post an update as soon as I can. BTW, when the PMS cut the power to the heat pump, my furnace kicked on automatically. It’s cold here brrrrrr.

What is a KSA and how would you do a manual calibration of the EMS?

[rk06382]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

What is a KSA and how would you do a manual calibration of the EMS?

Knowledge, Skills, and Abilities.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by rk06382

Knowledge, Skills, and Abilities.

LOL. You got me on that one. I should go to the john and take a load off my mind so I can think clearly.

[Duckogram]

Here is a pic I took back in February when I did the install.
The blue “block” is one of two calibration adjustments labled L1 and L2 on the main board. I can easily get to L1 but not sure about L2 as I will be working under the fridge. I will also have to do this “hot” so care must be taken to avoid “Fried Duck”.

[ejohnson1144]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

Here is a pic I took back in February when I did the install.
The blue “block” is one of two calibration adjustments labled L1 and L2 on the main board. I can easily get to L1 but not sure about L2 as I will be working under the fridge. I will also have to do this “hot” so care must be taken to avoid “Fried Duck”.

The blue block is a variable resistor.

[ejohnson1144]

Originally Posted by ejohnson1144

The blue block is a variable resistor.

Put some rubber gloves on and tape the shaft of small screw driver to insulate so you don't short something if you drop it

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

Here is a pic I took back in February when I did the install.
The blue “block” is one of two calibration adjustments labled L1 and L2 on the main board. I can easily get to L1 but not sure about L2 as I will be working under the fridge. I will also have to do this “hot” so care must be taken to avoid “Fried Duck”.

Your photo shows the PI_EMS-HW30C. With the EMS-HW30C you should only have L1. You have just 1 coil with the L1 hot lead running through it. The EMS-HW50C has L1 and L2. The photo below is the inside of a HW50C. If you compare the 2 photos you will notice your photo has 1 pickup coil and 4 terminals on the relay. 1 pair of terminals for L1 and a pair for neutral. If you look closely to the HW50C you will see 2 pickup coils and 6 terminals, 2 terminals each for L1, L2, and neutral. You can see the 2 variable resisters beside each other in the HW50C. BTW, the relay coil inside the HW50C is also used for 3-phase motor starter coils.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

Your photo shows the PI_EMS-HW30C. With the EMS-HW30C you should only have L1. You have just 1 coil with the L1 hot lead running through it. The EMS-HW50C has L1 and L2. The photo below is the inside of a HW50C. If you compare the 2 photos you will notice your photo has 1 pickup coil and 4 terminals on the relay. 1 pair of terminals for L1 and a pair for neutral. If you look closely to the HW50C you will see 2 pickup coils and 6 terminals, 2 terminals each for L1, L2, and neutral. You can see the 2 variable resisters beside each other in the HW50C. BTW, the relay coil inside the HW50C is also used for 3-phase motor starter coils.

That makes sense but its not what PI said. I think he forgot I said HW30C. I have been contemplating how I could sync two adjustments on one leg. I will of course, confirm that as soon as I open the box. If there is only one, life got a lot easier because I can safely reach it.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by ejohnson1144

Put some rubber gloves on and tape the shaft of small screw driver to insulate so you don't short something if you drop it

Gloves and insulated handle screwdriver are good advice.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

That makes sense but its not what PI said. I think he forgot I said HW30C. I have been contemplating how I could sync two adjustments on one leg. I will of course, confirm that as soon as I open the box. If there is only one, life got a lot easier because I can safely reach it.

I don't have a photo of the inner workings of my EMS-HW30C and I'm not going to be at the camper til Monday. I bought the EMS-HW50C for a friend who decided he didn't want to keep his TT, so it's in the box in my garage. I bought them at the same time in the fall of 2013.

[Duckogram]

Finally landed long enough to tackle the EMS calibration.
Started with a good quality digital meter reading at the pedestal.
119.4 - 120.2 Volts over 5 minutes.
Then plugged the meter into the coach interior line.
119.4 - 120.0 V over 5 minutes.
Then I plugged the meter into the Kitchen overhead outlet where my DW could see it an the PI display at the same time.
After removing the cover and verifying that there was only one variable resistor,
I checked the differential. Meter 119.7 PI 127
I began the calibration by turning the screw clockwise 1/4 turn.
The PI went to 128 so I turned the screw 1/2 turn counter-clockwise.
That took the PI to 125. Another 1/2 turn. Meter 119.9 PI 121
Then I let it settle for a minute. PI fluctuated 121-122 while meter remained constant. Another 1/4 turn. PI 120 meter 119.6. After settling, the PI read 120 even when the meter dropped to 119.4 so I gave the screw a little bump. Final results PI reads 119 with a 119.4 meter reading and 120 with a 119.6 meter reading. I’m calling that mission accomplished.
Pics below: Location under fridge. Clear view of the “guts”. The all important screwdriver. It’s 2” total length. You can buy it in an eyeglass repair kit at CVS.

[KenandCarol]

As a former Metrology (calibration lab) technician...GOOD JOB!!