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Old 02-16-2024, 05:21 PM   #1
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How many batteries?

Newbie here. Literally no knowledge of rving. Recently purchased 2020 Palomino 32RBFQ2 with 3 slides Previous owner always used shore power, never relied on battery except going down road. Upon getting trailer to house and unhooked from vehicle… no power. Checked battery and positive terminal completely corroded and broke. Fixed that..have power. Except… a few things don’t. I have checked all fuses etc and going to start with buying new battery. Question is… how many, what type? I’ve read gel better than acid and I don’t want to go to the extreme of having to rewire for lithium. I will be living stationary with available shore power for 5-10 months. I do not have shore power now at home to be able to test things.
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Old 02-16-2024, 06:48 PM   #2
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What are those "few things" that do not have power?

Best bank for the buck is two GC-2 (golf cart batteries).
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Old 02-16-2024, 06:51 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Myhaven2 View Post
Newbie here. Literally no knowledge of rving. Recently purchased 2020 Palomino 32RBFQ2 with 3 slides Previous owner always used shore power, never relied on battery except going down road. Upon getting trailer to house and unhooked from vehicle… no power. Checked battery and positive terminal completely corroded and broke. Fixed that..have power. Except… a few things don’t. I have checked all fuses etc and going to start with buying new battery. Question is… how many, what type? I’ve read gel better than acid and I don’t want to go to the extreme of having to rewire for lithium. I will be living stationary with available shore power for 5-10 months. I do not have shore power now at home to be able to test things.
The simplest, least maintenance battery for replacement is AGM. No need to worry about liquid levels like basic batteries. If you’re going to be hooked up to shore power almost always, just replace as many batteries as you have today.

If you’re at home with your rig, do you have an electrical outlet from your house nearby? A standard outlet will power the basics in your Palomino. Just buy this adapter and plug your RV into it, and then your house.

https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-55223-Po...5a1e71e947f207
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Old 02-16-2024, 07:13 PM   #4
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Myhaven2, if will always have shore power, any basic 12v dual-purpose marine battery will do.
Install a battery disconnect switch if the trailer didn't come with one. Then the battery won't be drained if you don't have any outlet to plug into at home.
Do you live in a condo or apartment? If not, don't you have a 15amp or 20amp outlet to plug the trailer into? All you need is a 30amp to 15amp adapter or dogbone.
I would think that your Palomino has a factory battery disconnect switch.
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Old 02-16-2024, 07:26 PM   #5
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Awning, tv, fireplace. Haven’t tried a/c because just trying to get familiar with things. But it’s just mind boggling that the slides will go in/out but awning,tv,electrical outlets don’t work
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Old 02-16-2024, 07:28 PM   #6
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I can not find a battery disconnect switch. I’ve crawled all under this trailer looking. And unfortunately I do not have any outlet because when it was brought to me I parked it out of the way����
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Old 02-16-2024, 07:32 PM   #7
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Yes… this adapter was in the trailer. But I’m not parked near receptacle. And… so everyone can laugh… I have no way to move trailer. I’ve recently sold house, no new house built yet… this is happening very fast and I’m just trying to learn and figure as I go
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Old 02-16-2024, 08:40 PM   #8
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This helps everyone……
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Old 02-16-2024, 08:59 PM   #9
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Awning, tv, fireplace. Haven’t tried a/c because just trying to get familiar with things. But it’s just mind boggling that the slides will go in/out but awning,tv,electrical outlets don’t work
The tv, fireplace and electrical outlets won't work unless you are plugged in to shore power or a generator. You do know there are two different power systems in a R/V?... 12v (battery) and 120v. (plugged in)
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Old 02-16-2024, 09:10 PM   #10
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Whoa!

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Awning, tv, fireplace. Haven’t tried a/c because just trying to get familiar with things. But it’s just mind boggling that the slides will go in/out but awning,tv,electrical outlets don’t work
Whoa! Whoa!

You need some basic education here before you run off madly in all directions at once.

There are TWO distinct electrical systems in your unit, 120 Vac and 12 Vdc. The 120 Vac is the same as power in a house or office. The 12 Vdc is the same as in a car or truck. The reason an RV has both is so that you can camp where there is no power available.

The 120 Vac typically powers the microwave oven, air conditioner, the electrical outlets, and the electric option for the water heater. The 12 Vdc typically powers the lights, furnace, fans, and the gas option for the water heater. Some televisions and refrigerators use 120 Vac and some use 12 Vdc. There is also an appliance (called a "converter") that charges the 12 V battery from 120 Vac.

So when you say that the awning and electrical outlets don't work, you are talking about TWO different concerns. If the RV is not plugged in, the outlets won't work--unless you have an option called an "inverter" which is not likely in an older or low-end RV.

The awning is a 12 Vdc appliance. It is possible that its fuse is blown, the wires to the motor have been pinched, or the motor is stuck. You can troubleshoot this yourself, but it's a low priority right now.

Do some research and report back on the model numbers for the TV and refrigerator, and we can let you know whether they are 120 Vac or 12 Vdc and how to troubleshoot them.
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Old 02-17-2024, 11:40 AM   #11
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Move toward 2 lithium batteries.
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Old 02-17-2024, 12:01 PM   #12
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2 batteries or more if possible of the biggest amperage in your budget if you have space in paralell for best power output
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Old 02-17-2024, 12:20 PM   #13
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If I’m reading this correctly, Myhaven2 has little to no real knowledge of how RV units operate with respect to electricity……12 VDC vs 120 VAC.

Ahead of that, it sounds as though someone, somehow delivered his Palomino to a property he hopes to build a real home on, but nothing exists yet. He has no access to ANY shore power, probably no water source, no sewer source. He has no way of moving it anywhere, so I’m guessing he has no tow vehicle capable of changing this. If things don’t change quickly, he’ll have no battery power for anything either.

Throwing battery solutions out is not the answer. I’m not hearing any way of keeping them healthy anyway.

Myhaven2 has to get back to give us a much bigger picture of what we’re dealing with. His last opening sentence said he’ll be stationary with shore power for 5-10 months, however I believe he’s nowhere near that situation for awhile.

If I’m wrong here, let me know.

Myhaven2……are you still out there? We need answers to help you.
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Old 02-17-2024, 07:33 PM   #14
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Whoa! Whoa!

You need some basic education here before you run off madly in all directions at once.

There are TWO distinct electrical systems in your unit, 120 Vac and 12 Vdc. The 120 Vac is the same as power in a house or office. The 12 Vdc is the same as in a car or truck. The reason an RV has both is so that you can camp where there is no power available.

The 120 Vac typically powers the microwave oven, air conditioner, the electrical outlets, and the electric option for the water heater. The 12 Vdc typically powers the lights, furnace, fans, and the gas option for the water heater. Some televisions and refrigerators use 120 Vac and some use 12 Vdc. There is also an appliance (called a "converter") that charges the 12 V battery from 120 Vac.

So when you say that the awning and electrical outlets don't work, you are talking about TWO different concerns. If the RV is not plugged in, the outlets won't work--unless you have an option called an "inverter" which is not likely in an older or low-end RV.

The awning is a 12 Vdc appliance. It is possible that its fuse is blown, the wires to the motor have been pinched, or the motor is stuck. You can troubleshoot this yourself, but it's a low priority right now.

Do some research and report back on the model numbers for the TV and refrigerator, and we can let you know whether they are 120 Vac or 12 Vdc and how to troubleshoot them.
😂. Thanks for breaking it down, even though I am aware of two different power sources. Did not know chow it was broken down. I’ve checked all fuses inside, underside you name it. No pinched wires. Basically just going to wait till parked and plugged to worry about awning. I’ve researched how to do manual so will give a try at some point
Fridge works so I’m good with it. I’ve been “practicing” set up functions when I get to park, but still a little intimidating.
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Old 02-17-2024, 07:35 PM   #15
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This helps everyone……
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Old 02-17-2024, 07:45 PM   #16
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If I’m reading this correctly, Myhaven2 has little to no real knowledge of how RV units operate with respect to electricity……12 VDC vs 120 VAC.

Ahead of that, it sounds as though someone, somehow delivered his Palomino to a property he hopes to build a real home on, but nothing exists yet. He has no access to ANY shore power, probably no water source, no sewer source. He has no way of moving it anywhere, so I’m guessing he has no tow vehicle capable of changing this. If things don’t change quickly, he’ll have no battery power for anything either.

Throwing battery solutions out is not the answer. I’m not hearing any way of keeping them healthy anyway.

Myhaven2 has to get back to give us a much bigger picture of what we’re dealing with. His last opening sentence said he’ll be stationary with shore power for 5-10 months, however I believe he’s nowhere near that situation for awhile.

If I’m wrong here, let me know.

Myhaven2……are you still out there? We need answers to help you.
You are absolutely correct.. no knowledge of rv but I’m no imbecile And it’s a she, not a him😂
The rv was brought to my current residence, which I am in the process of moving out I did this so I could learn as much as I can while stationary and no prying eyes watching your every move/mistake Admittedly, I had no idea these rvs could not just run off batteries. I mean… there aren’t plug ups everywhere. Lesson learned.
As far as towing… correct I have none. BUT I have friends standing with me on this new adventure who have gone above and beyond to aid when I need to move to semi permanent location. Which will have 50amp, sewage, water available
I have nothing running at moment… I disconnected battery… as in one… in hopes of getting new one. Because it is a larger rv I was thinking two would be better but I’m going to have shore power so why should I There is no battery disconnect switch.
As far as no where near that situation… I close on my house in 12 days. Gotta be somewhere
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Old 02-17-2024, 07:47 PM   #17
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Move toward 2 lithium batteries.
Are there any specific alterations that have to be done to wiring to convert to lithium? Every thing I’ve seen talks of larger wiring
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Old 02-18-2024, 10:33 AM   #18
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I strongly suggest you spend a lot of your downtime watching YouTube. Literally TONS on RVing. Decent search feature there.

12VDC RV electrical systems are still based on no hookup camping. It supplies power to setup and tear down camp (awning, slides, power stabilizer, ect.) & basic living items like water heater, stove, heater, and fridge. Many of these items are primarily propane powered and use 12VDC as control and fan power.
The home style luxuries or high electrical demand systems use 120VAC. Air conditioner, electric water heater element, fridge on AC (fridge uses heat to operate), microwave, TV, outlets for toasters, ect. You need to be plugged in for that to a power source.

Electrical power is one of three critical stationary RV items. The others are waste (black & gray tank) and fresh water.
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Old 02-18-2024, 02:36 PM   #19
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I strongly suggest you spend a lot of your downtime watching YouTube. Literally TONS on RVing. Decent search feature there.

12VDC RV electrical systems are still based on no hookup camping. It supplies power to setup and tear down camp (awning, slides, power stabilizer, ect.) & basic living items like water heater, stove, heater, and fridge. Many of these items are primarily propane powered and use 12VDC as control and fan power.
The home style luxuries or high electrical demand systems use 120VAC. Air conditioner, electric water heater element, fridge on AC (fridge uses heat to operate), microwave, TV, outlets for toasters, ect. You need to be plugged in for that to a power source.

Electrical power is one of three critical stationary RV items. The others are waste (black & gray tank) and fresh water.
Thanks… in between packing and property development, I’ll I do is watch videos. More than a few friends have come over to help with ins and outs associated with rv. It’s a learning process and I know I’ll make mistakes, but just wanted quality advice.
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Old 02-18-2024, 03:09 PM   #20
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You're getting good advice...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Myhaven2 View Post
Thanks… in between packing and property development, I’ll I do is watch videos. More than a few friends have come over to help with ins and outs associated with rv. It’s a learning process and I know I’ll make mistakes, but just wanted quality advice.
You're getting good advice. Take it easy and take care of the high priority items first. Don't worry about everything at once.

Your immediate need is electricity. Even great batteries, fully charged, will only last a handful of days. Getting power to your site is a number one priority. Once you have power there, a single so-called "marine" or "dual-purpose" battery is sufficient. No need to splurge on lithium unless you plan to disconnect from power for several days.

Next object is water. You can live off bottled water for an extended period of time, but running water is nice. Does your construction site have water? Or have you found a service that will bring water to your site?

You will learn that your water heater is tiny, likely 6 gallons. Compare this to a house with a 50 gallon unit, or an apartment with 35. Expect to take "navy showers." Run the water until its warm, get wet quickly, and turn it off. Soap up, then turn the water back on to rinse. Do this right, and you will be completely rinsed off just as you run out of hot water.

When you use water for washing or toilet, you create waste water. There are two kinds. The sinks drain into the "gray water" tank. The toilet drains into the "black water" tank. You should have plans to get the tanks emptied. Ideally there will be a sewage connection on your site. You will learn that it's a bad idea to leave the drain valves open. Better to let the tanks fill and then open the valves to drain them. Empty the black tank first, then the gray tank (to rinse the drain hose. Then, when the valves are closed again, run some water into the black tank before using the toilet to avoid a "pyramid of poop." What is your plan for sewage?

You will likely use propane for the range and water heater and furnace. Your trailer probably has two 20 lb. propane canisters, with an auto-changeover regulator that switches from one to the other when the first one empties. These tanks weigh about 37 lbs. when full. If you're fit, you should be able to wrestle your tanks to Walmart or Lowes or many grocery store and swap them for full tanks. Cheaper to let Costco refill them for you.

One last comment, because you mentioned the awning. Don't leave it extended if high winds are expected, or if you are leaving for an extended period. When you do extend it, don't set it perfectly level. Make sure one end is lower than the other. If you leave it even, a pool of water can form in the center, so heavy that it breaks or tears something. If you leave it with one end low, a valley forms in the center and all the water runs off through the valley.

Sorry this is long--there's a lot to learn.
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