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08-03-2021, 09:57 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 225
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How to make sure the alternator charges house batteries
Hello fellow RVers,
(2004 Georgetown 308 XL)
This morning I swapped my house batteries (3 years old) that wouldn't hold a charge anymore for two spanking new golf cart batteries from Costco.
I have a distinct feeling that the alternator does not charge the house batteries. 2 years back I disabled the engine auto-boost feature because even when not engaged, the house batteries were still connected to the engine battery, which caused all the array to drain, leaving my engine stranded. Could it be the case that by doing so, I prevent the alternator from charging the house batteries.
Is there a way to verify my theory? How do I check if the alternator charges the house batteries when driving about?
Thanks a lot,
Maurice
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2004 Georgetown XL 308DL
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08-03-2021, 10:41 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Zephyrhills FL
Posts: 1,109
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It is very possible you disconnected the charge wire. It is an easy test. With the RV not connected to shore power, put a DC voltmeter on the house battery with the engine off and read the voltage, start the engine and read the voltage of the house battery again. It will be higher with the engine running if the engine is charging it.
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(Previous) Coachmen Mirada Select 37RB
(Previous) Coachmen Freedom Express 246RKS
(Current)2022 Grand Design Reflection150 226RK
2022 F150 Powerboost Hybrid.
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08-03-2021, 11:15 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Box elder
Posts: 730
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Use a volt meter. If charging the voltage should be above 13 volts.
The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)
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2015 silverback 31IK
2023 f350
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08-03-2021, 11:23 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,652
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The auto boost (aux start) and cross charging circuits are independent but both do energize the same relay. They are parallel interconnects. The previous post check will verify. Don't quite understand your boost switch and batteries issue. Your coach is a 2004 but think this area would be the same as later vintages.
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08-03-2021, 12:37 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 225
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Thanks for the suggestion, I'll run the test later this week. I might also invest in a new solenoid and reconnect the auto boost feature. BTW, if the house batteries are dead, can I use the auto boost to jump start the generator?
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2004 Georgetown XL 308DL
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08-03-2021, 01:28 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,652
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As long as there is enough power to energize the interconnect solenoid then I would think yes. Of course you could always start the engine and allow the cross charging to charge the coach batteries enough to a level that will start the genny (start it with engine running).
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08-06-2021, 01:37 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 225
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Hello,
So I ran tests and herés what I have:
When the engine is not running, I have 12.7V on the house batteries.
With engine running, same thing.
It means the selenoďd does close the circuit.
Ran to the parts store, the owner suggested I check the voltage at the actuator connectors, with the engine running I should have 12V, forcing the selenoďd to close the circuit and allowing the alternator to charge the house batts. So the selenoďd might still be good, but the ignition does send the 12V signal for it to close.
What’s next?
M
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2004 Georgetown XL 308DL
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08-06-2021, 01:44 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,652
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Not familiar with a 2004 GT. What kind of a battery control center (B.I.R.D/SDC-?) do you have?
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08-06-2021, 03:03 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 225
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I have the Intellitec BD0
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08-06-2021, 03:20 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 359
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If your boost switch was not disconnecting there’s a good change the isolation solenoid is shot. Put a new one in. It’s that silver canister in your photo.
Buy a continuous duty one. They’re expensive if you run down to your local auto parts store. $80+. If you can wait a day or two, they’re about $35 online.
__________________
2006 Dynamax Isata IE 250
420 Ah batteries
400w Solar
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08-06-2021, 05:13 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,652
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08-07-2021, 01:36 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric1514
If your boost switch was not disconnecting there’s a good change the isolation solenoid is shot. Put a new one in. It’s that silver canister in your photo.
Buy a continuous duty one. They’re expensive if you run down to your local auto parts store. $80+. If you can wait a day or two, they’re about $35 online.
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But if it is the relay that would mean it was always in the energized state and therefore he should have read the alternator output on the coach battery.
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08-07-2021, 02:16 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Zephyrhills FL
Posts: 1,109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbles
But if it is the relay that would mean it was always in the energized state and therefore he should have read the alternator output on the coach battery.
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That would be true except that in his first post he mentioned disabling the boost feature which probably means the old relay is no longer in the circuit and the battery cables are disconnected.
__________________
(Previous) Coachmen Mirada Select 37RB
(Previous) Coachmen Freedom Express 246RKS
(Current)2022 Grand Design Reflection150 226RK
2022 F150 Powerboost Hybrid.
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08-07-2021, 06:54 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougW
That would be true except that in his first post he mentioned disabling the boost feature which probably means the old relay is no longer in the circuit and the battery cables are disconnected.
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The picture in post #9 looks like all the battery cables are connected. I think he disabled the boost switch itself. I hope somehow the relay is the issue after he spends that much money. It's like changing parts till it's fixed, no matter how much it costs. Oh well.
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08-07-2021, 07:29 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbles
But if it is the relay that would mean it was always in the energized state and therefore he should have read the alternator output on the coach battery.
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His first post made it sound like the solenoid was always energized even though he disconnected the switch. At least that was my understanding.
__________________
2006 Dynamax Isata IE 250
420 Ah batteries
400w Solar
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08-08-2021, 07:30 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric1514
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Ah, looks good to me. I’ll consider this one seriously.
M
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2004 Georgetown XL 308DL
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08-12-2021, 06:43 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlafleur
Ah, looks good to me. I’ll consider this one seriously.
M
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Alright, the part is ordered. I should get it next Tuesday. The the fun will begin... I’ll report here.
M
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2004 Georgetown XL 308DL
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08-31-2021, 05:45 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 225
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Hi all,
I finally went ahead and swap the battery isolator today. Bad news is: I'm not sure it was the problem. Once the old part had been removed, and the new one was in (see attached pic), I applied 12V to the small connectors (actuator?) of the old one, and I heard the selenoid click. I also started the engine and the voltage at the small connectors was still 0V (slenoid NOT engaged)
So it's back to square 1. Could someone validate my hypothesis that the purple wire (on the right) is actually bringing the signal from either the boost button or the engine running signal as in the crude diagram below?
Thanks.
M
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2004 Georgetown XL 308DL
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