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08-27-2018, 02:42 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 40
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I did something dumb. Going to have to do some repairs now
I forgot to plug my cord into my truck before I left the campground and the road chewed the cord up pretty bad. My wife was behind me and she noticed I didn't have any lights but didn't bother to say anything lol. Anyway, I can see where the cord goes up through the front of the underbelly but I don't know where it goes from there. Do I have to pull the underbelly off and also where is the junction box that it connects to. I've got a 2015 coachman Catalina 273 DBS. Thanks all.
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08-27-2018, 02:47 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 10,525
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You can find replacement RV cords on Ebay at a reasonable price. You'll just have to decide how deep you want to go to make the splice.
Looks like about $28 incl shipping.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Way-Trail...EAAOSwBnZbDvNs
__________________
Peace!
Dan & Rita D
2017 Nissan Titan 5.6L King cab 4wd
2016 Evergreen Everlite 242RBS
29' empty nest model. Blue Ox WD hitch
(1 queen bed, large main cabin and huge bathroom)
Camping days 2010-53, 2011-47, 2012-41, 2013-41, 2014-31, 2015-40, 2016-44, 2017-63, 2018-75, 2019-32, 2020-41, 2021-49, 2022-43, 2023-66
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08-27-2018, 02:59 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 40
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If I'm going to have to splice I will do it at the trailer tongue to avoid having to go into the underbelly. The damage is only about 2.5 feet behind the plug. I was hoping to be able to just replace the whole thing.
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08-27-2018, 03:07 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,786
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After you do the repair, make up a Departure checklist and post it by the entry door.
We've used ours for 15 years and it's saved us a number of times.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.) 
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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08-27-2018, 03:07 PM
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#5
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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I would bet you only have to drop the underbelly where the cord enters. Most of the cords go into a junction box on the inside of hitch. Your cord probably enters the underbelly next to a frame member then goes into a junction box attached to the frame. Then the individual wires go out from there to the various lights and brakes. The marker/running lights and tail lights will be on the same connection in the junction box. The brake lights will be on separate connections for left and right, some brake lights also serve as the turn signal for that side. The electric brakes will be connected on the wire in the box, but it will be separate from the brake light wires.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
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08-27-2018, 03:10 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 954
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There will likely be a junction box where the wire disappears into the underbelly.
If the coroplast material is too-large-to manage-one-piece just use a box knife to cut a 3-sided opening (hinge toward the front) to access the junction box. Give yourself an opening large enough to work in.
-Use scrimshield repair tape to reseal the opening when complete.
-Buy only the length of cable u need for the replacement (ie, cost)
-do not assume the color-coded wire is the same from cable set to cable set.
Don’t ask how I know....
__________________
2016 RAM 3500 DRW 4x4 LB LoneStar, w/RDS 33Gal Aux tank, Timbrens, Andersen Ultimate2, SwiftHitch SH04
2018 Chaparral 360IBL w/TST507 TPMS, Lippert GC3 Autolevel, Furrion Backup Cam, Progressive HW50C
2006 RAM 3500 DRW LoneStar Edition
2011 Starcraft 392BHUw/Andersen No-Sway
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08-27-2018, 03:12 PM
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#7
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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I see you pretty much have it figured out how to repair it, If it were me I would attach a junction box on the inside of the hitch and make the splice there.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
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08-27-2018, 03:59 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 2,303
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I did something dumb. Going to have to do some repairs now
you can also get a new plug that has lugs that you can connect the individual wires in to. I have had the same experience, except my plug disengaged on a sharp turn, then got dragged....luckily, I had a spare in the trailer.
The plug is about $6 at eTrailer.
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08-27-2018, 10:56 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 40
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Thanks for all of the info. Looks like I can just make it a project to work on in the upcoming couple of weeks.
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08-28-2018, 07:11 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 2,303
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08-28-2018, 08:52 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ Pete
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My plug is still good to go. Just the wires about 2 feet behind it are chewed almost in two. I'll probably need a whole new cord unless I want to splice it
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08-28-2018, 09:13 AM
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#12
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RV There Yet?
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Winona, MN
Posts: 1,139
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grab your multi meter and see which 2 wires are chewed up. if it were mine, i would cut the 2 bad wires out, solder and heat shrink the new wires in place, wrap everything with rescue tape (butyl rubber tape) and call it a day.
as an aside, i always put my cord over the tongue of the trailer, right at the latch. i then put the safety chains over the plug to hold it there. makes hitching easy. very hard to forget when its right at the hitch latch. plus they dont get all full of dirt.
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08-28-2018, 01:33 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 56
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If that is the dumbest thing that you do in your TT career, my hat is off to you.
Not a difficult repair, and readily available parts.
"Dumb" things just seem to go hand in hand with camping .... for those of us who admit it that is.
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08-28-2018, 01:39 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 78
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Second trip out with our new trailer the plug got hung up somehow on the hitch and rubbed through shorting some wires. I bought a new plug with 8' cord, found the junction box just under the front of the trailer and was able to make the repair at the campground pretty easily so it would be set for the trip home.
I had also read the caution about trusting the wire colors so I checked the old and new cords against each other with a multimeter before I proceeded.
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08-28-2018, 01:42 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 545
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IF you don't have a junction box, then definitely install one with the new pigtail. I put one of these on my race car trailer, and believe me, it's a lifesaver. Eventually, you're 7-pin connector is going to get gunked up and with this junction box, it's just a matter of screwing down the new wires to the right connectors - no crimping, or taping needed....
$27 and free shipping and you can get it delivered in 1 day...
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Hound-Aut...or+7+way&psc=1
__________________
George & Nancy, Allen, Texas
2015 F350 CC, DRW, LB, Platinum Edition
2018 Cedar Creek 36CK2
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08-28-2018, 03:16 PM
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#16
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Dobbs from WI
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper
I see you pretty much have it figured out how to repair it, If it were me I would attach a junction box on the inside of the hitch and make the splice there.
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X2
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08-28-2018, 08:10 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 5,058
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As par of our departure routine, the DW verifies that the turn signals and brake lights work. Verifies that the trailer is hooked up to the truck and that the connections are working. I caught some minor corrosion on one trip.
__________________
Al
I am starting to think, that I will never be old enough--------to know better.
Tolerance will reach such a level that intelligent people will be banned from thinking so as not to offend the imbeciles. Fyodor Mikhailovich Dostoevsky, Russian Novelist
S.E. Mich. Flagstaff 26FKWS / 2022 F-150 3.5 EcoBoost SCrew Propride
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08-28-2018, 08:50 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsykora
IF you don't have a junction box, then definitely install one with the new pigtail. I put one of these on my race car trailer, and believe me, it's a lifesaver. Eventually, you're 7-pin connector is going to get gunked up and with this junction box, it's just a matter of screwing down the new wires to the right connectors - no crimping, or taping needed....
$27 and free shipping and you can get it delivered in 1 day...
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Hound-Aut...or+7+way&psc=1 |
I would use this set up "Ahead of your hidden box", mount it inside the A frame!  Youroo! !
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08-29-2018, 06:39 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Brookings
Posts: 561
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How did you check the lights before leaving if the cord was not plugged in??
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08-29-2018, 07:22 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Maryville, Tn.
Posts: 594
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4' and $17
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ordered one for another trailer I'm adding brakes to.
__________________
2016 F150 XLT 4X4 SCREW 5.0
2014 Grey Wolf 21RR
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