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Old 06-20-2021, 01:32 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Laredo294 View Post
Great wisdom. Information is priceless. My issue is quite similar, but the trailer only gets energized when plugged into power outlet. It is fine when it runs off the generator. Could this be the inverter giving me the grief, or just the outlet i am plugged into
Plug an EMS into the outlet and it will tell you immediately if the outlet is good or bad.

I donít know how to say this without sounding preachy, but humans should not enter an energized trailer. Stay safe until fixed.
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Old 06-27-2021, 07:38 AM   #22
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Great read. Iím having an issue as well with 45 volts hitting the ground. Also when unplugged with batteries having 1/2 volt to ground. Another symptom is a ďpopĒ and a scorched prong on my main power cord adapter. Another issue is my brand new converter isnít working correctly anymore charging my batteries.
Iíve volt meter tested the hell out of everything. I turned off all breakers, still shocked. DC the converter same. My guess it is between the main plug and the sun panel. Iíve inspected. No rate chew marks, nada. Totally perplexed. Puzzling is I can get power to ground AC and DC.
Also not sure if this is correct or not but when my tester is set for continuity, I have continuity with the ground in the main plug and the frame of the RV. Is this correct?
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Old 06-27-2021, 07:59 AM   #23
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I've had 'hot skin' issues from time to time over the years - it generally comes down to a Neutral and Hot wire being switched. Sometimes when a shore cord Male end is replaced, it may be that the wires are installed incorrectly, and while the wiring may seem to 'work', it can also work to sometimes provide a small 'tingle' or 'shock' when you touch both a metal surface and while standing on the ground, ESPECIALLY in damp or wet conditions. It could also be a 30amp campground outlet that has these wires switched.

It would have nothing to do with an Inverter.
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Old 06-27-2021, 08:02 AM   #24
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... humans should not enter an energized trailer. Stay safe until fixed.

while this may seem to be common-sense, the reality is that the RV's tires provide protection to the 'humans', which is why you typically don't have issues WHILE you are in the RV, usually only when outside standing on the ground and touching a metal surface, coax cable, etc.
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Old 06-27-2021, 08:15 AM   #25
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This occurred at home with the same outlet, cord, etc. nothing has changed. Checked. No reversed wires. Def had my knee in water and my finger in the drain hole of the water tank and the tingle was low enough I thought I had a fiberglass splinter in my finger but I realized I became ground. Like I said earlier, I shutoff all the breakers and still have the issue. So it rules out the HW tank I presume.
Again seeming to isolate everything from the plug to sub panel. No changes that Iíve made have occurred between those points.
Getting DC to ground at 1/2 volt then says something but not sure if I had a hot AC touching something looking for ground, why is the DC side trying to find ground too?
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Old 06-27-2021, 09:19 AM   #26
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while this may seem to be common-sense, the reality is that the RV's tires provide protection to the 'humans', which is why you typically don't have issues WHILE you are in the RV, usually only when outside standing on the ground and touching a metal surface, coax cable, etc.
Thanks. Thatís why I said ďshould not enter.Ē You can ground out at the metal door step. Also when connecting the power cable, hose line, etc. you are touching the ground. Not a safe situation.

Certainly anyone with a pacemaker, defibrillator or heart condition should be quite cautious. Thatís not to say the rest of us are invincible to electrical shocks either.

For those wondering how to know, a non-contact voltage tester available at hardware stores will tell you if your frame is hot.
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Old 06-27-2021, 09:22 AM   #27
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This occurred at home with the same outlet, cord, etc. nothing has changed. Checked. No reversed wires. Def had my knee in water and my finger in the drain hole of the water tank and the tingle was low enough I thought I had a fiberglass splinter in my finger but I realized I became ground. Like I said earlier, I shutoff all the breakers and still have the issue. So it rules out the HW tank I presume.
Again seeming to isolate everything from the plug to sub panel. No changes that Iíve made have occurred between those points.
Getting DC to ground at 1/2 volt then says something but not sure if I had a hot AC touching something looking for ground, why is the DC side trying to find ground too?
An EMS plugged into your outlet and the adapter you are using will tell you if your base circuit is good or bad. If good, then you can plug the EMS into the receiving end of the RV power cord (in place of the RV) and check your power cord. After that, itís inside. Good luck!
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Old 06-27-2021, 10:31 AM   #28
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the test gun is known by the name " buck rogers gun" to some telephone repair men. it will keep you alive.
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Old 06-27-2021, 01:39 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Laredo294 View Post
Great wisdom. Information is priceless. My issue is quite similar, but the trailer only gets energized when plugged into power outlet. It is fine when it runs off the generator. Could this be the inverter giving me the grief, or just the outlet i am plugged into
Quote:
Originally Posted by Secondmanup View Post
Great read. Iím having an issue as well with 45 volts hitting the ground. Also when unplugged with batteries having 1/2 volt to ground. Another symptom is a ďpopĒ and a scorched prong on my main power cord adapter. Another issue is my brand new converter isnít working correctly anymore charging my batteries.
Iíve volt meter tested the hell out of everything. I turned off all breakers, still shocked. DC the converter same. My guess it is between the main plug and the sun panel. Iíve inspected. No rate chew marks, nada. Totally perplexed. Puzzling is I can get power to ground AC and DC.
Also not sure if this is correct or not but when my tester is set for continuity, I have continuity with the ground in the main plug and the frame of the RV. Is this correct?

Mike Sokol is the de facto expert on these hot skin chassis events. If you both will please read the OP of this thread above, Mike explains the causes and what to search for to find the problem.


He also explains how reverse polarity will NOT be the cause of this unless you have another wiring problem like someone who bonded the neutral and ground wires together at any place besides the electrical service entrance. The Service entrance will NOT be anywhere in the RV (it's a subpanel) and usually will not even be at the pedestal outlet.



After rereading the OP you will know you are most likely looking for a safety grounding issue and it could be in the shore power cord, any electric adapters, the shore power outlet, the inlet in your RV. etc.
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Old 08-30-2021, 01:35 PM   #30
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An update. Please help. So hereís what Iíve found.
1)with all breakers off I lose 45 volts to ground if my knee is in water. I backtracked the outlet, extension cord. 120 to 30 amp converter plug, and the 30amp cord that plugs into my rig. I checked continuity with each piece. All wires independent check out.
2) I used a plug in device that indicates up to the end of the 120 extension cord is wired cord is wired correctly.
3) However the outlet on rig says there is an open neutral.
4) I took apart the outlet on the rig. Tested each wire input separately for continuity. All good.
5) I have eyes on the 120 that goes from the plug, 24Ē run under the cabinet, and unde the floor where itís got spray insulation around. No room for a rat and no sign of poop or pee or shredded stuff.
6) The wire emerges in the sub panel. I ran a wire from the ground to the sub panel. I checked continuity and all is good.
7) I am totally puzzled. It doesnít appear open.

Doesnít open meanÖa break?
With thatÖwould an open ground be causing me to get shocked with my hand on the frame and my knee to ground?
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Old 08-30-2021, 02:07 PM   #31
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I don't whether you mentioned that you actually checked the OUTLET and Main Panel where you are plugged in - the outlet could have a loose neutral wire, or it could be loose at the Main Panel.
Yes, the loss of the Neutral can certainly mean that YOU become the Neutral when it is otherwise not functioning properly, which is why the 'tingle'...
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Old 08-30-2021, 02:44 PM   #32
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Why are you using an extension cord with your 30 A line? Thatís a bit of a red flag.. Is it an outdoor rated extension? If so, it may be ok within rated current capacity.

Also, there is no 120V to 30A converter or adapter. The 30A line is still 120V. You may have a 15A to 30A adapter. the terminology worries me.
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Old 08-30-2021, 03:01 PM   #33
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It’s a heavy outdoor rated cord. I’m not pulling heavy amps. I know better than to run an ac or a heavy load. It’s for the converter.
My household rated cord goes into the 30 amp supplied cord for the rig. It is down stream of the household cord.
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Old 08-30-2021, 03:04 PM   #34
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Another update in trouble shooting.
1) all receptacles report an open ground.
2) With all breakers shut off I get an 8v leak to ground.
3) As I turn on breakers individually I get varying amounts from 9, 11, 14, and the biggest 24 when I flip the AC breaker on
Essentially power is getting past all the breakers.

Question. If the rig is unpowered should there be continuity between ground and neutral in the panel? I don’t.
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Old 08-31-2021, 10:11 AM   #35
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Another update in trouble shooting.
1) all receptacles report an open ground.
2) With all breakers shut off I get an 8v leak to ground.
3) As I turn on breakers individually I get varying amounts from 9, 11, 14, and the biggest 24 when I flip the AC breaker on
Essentially power is getting past all the breakers.

Question. If the rig is unpowered should there be continuity between ground and neutral in the panel? I donít.
You should not have continuity between the neutral and safety ground in the RV if the power cord is disconnected. The RV's panel should have the two unbonded.....as its treated as a subpanel.

As explained by Mike Sokol above the only place these two are bonded is at the very main shore power panel...and not at subpanels.
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