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Old 03-19-2014, 08:32 PM   #21
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Maybe I missed something along the way, but the GCFI outlets are going to only work when you are hooked up to a generator or shore power. They are not going to run off of a 12volt system. Only certain items will run on 12 volt power, outlets are not one of them unless, you have an inverter installed.

It seems like the GCFI is hooked up properly and I'm not sure if it would help or not, but you can purchase a GFCI circuit tester. I have one that has 3 lights on it and then it has a legend on it which gives different combinations of the light when you plug it into the outlet. It will tell you if it's hooked up properly, missing ground, neutral, etc. It might be worth trying something like that just to make sure, plus they are pretty handy to have around the house.

Mine also has a button on it which you can press the button and trip the GFCI, I bought it because my builder wired other outlets to a GFCI in a different room and I couldn't figure out where it was tripping.
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:50 PM   #22
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I'm having electrical issues with my Rockwood

If you have a volt meter I would start at the power cord and work to the panel. Then check circuit breakers for 115 volts to neutral (white wire). If that's good then press the trip button on the GFCI outlet. If it still doesn't work then continue here.
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:57 PM   #23
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I've been a licensed electrician since 1978. Please understand it is very difficult to trouble shoot electrical problems through someone else's eyes. While the problem may be obvious to me you may be missing it. Everyone has good intensions to help you but you may want to seek local help if you can't find the problem. Also the something you're missing may be dangerous later on. Whatever you choose good luck.
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:58 PM   #24
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Your ceiling lights and fans are 12 volt items. Most tent trailers have a switch installed on the drop down cabinet that will cut power to the ceiling 12volt. This is a safety switch so you will not leave a light on when the trailer is in the closed position (hot light and material could cause fire). Is the switch making contact and do you have a 12 volt fuse that might be blown? As stated you 120 volt outlets will not run on battery power. Plus when battery was replaced could the wires have been put on backwards (- wire on + side of battery)?
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:36 PM   #25
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Thanks for the info Caper but I checked that safety switch previously (Red Button under the drop down cabinet) Here's something...Can the "Red" switch installed under the drop down cabinet go bad?...
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:46 PM   #26
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It might be able to stop working. Have you tried pressing the switch manually while the cabinet is in the down position? The reason I am asking this is the switch could have moved out of position. Also the lights have a 12 volt automotive style fuse. The fuse is located in the power control panel and could be bad.
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:48 PM   #27
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checked the fuses...all good...and yes I've tried pressing it manually and the lights still didn't work...both the wires under the switch are tight and fastened as well
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:23 PM   #28
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I had a Coleman popup for years. The interlock DC switch on the cupboard got corroded and heated up causing it to deteriorate and stop working. That controls DC power to the ceiling lights and fan. Check the interlock switch with a meter to see if its really working.

There is also a fuse for that circuit. Sometimes a blown fuse will only melt a little and you need to replace them with a good one to see if they actually work.

The AC outlets are only powered by the shore power or a generator. There is something else wrong there if your outlets aren't giving AC. The breakers are for the AC outlets so turn them on and off to make sure they haven't tripped.

You don't need a battery to run anything in a trailer so you can disconnect it for these checks since you power converter provides AC to the outlets and converts AC to DC for the 12v lights and appliances.

If you Google trailer wiring for power you'll get a typical trailer power diagram example, they are very simply set up.

As suggested a local person may be able to help. I'm an electrical engineer but too far away to be of help.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:02 PM   #29
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Ok...I changed the safety switch (red button under the drop down stove/sink that makes the lights and fan work when pressed) and my lights/fan work...a Bad switch...but now I still don't have power to the outlets...I purchased a circuit tester and according to it I have an open hot somewhere...Maybe a wire somewhere melted and is touching another wire or a piece of metal?
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:29 PM   #30
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Good for you. Unfortunately those interlocks are still flakey. Mine was a simple copper tab ...

There may have been an issue with the generator that caused the popup line power issue. Does your generator have any special instructions for grounding? It may have caused a fault due to floating/bonded ground, neutral? See the Google references for these possible gremlins. The generator manual should have details on your generator. Your tester can tell you how the generator receptacles are set up.

The problem could instead be an open wire in you AC circuits or a damaged wire. Likely only an in depth check of the wiring (with the power off) is in order. Be very carefull if you test the circuits live or call in an electrical contractor.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:45 PM   #31
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I gotcha on those interlocks (Safety switch)...I thought about installing a manual switch but I just stayed with what the trailer was set up for. Maybe I'll go and buy some more of those switches and keep them in the trailer just in case another goes bad. As far as checking the wires its too dark at the moment here in Cali so I'll do some investigation on the Hot/White wires tomorrow. Big Thanks everyone for the info/Help!
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Old 03-21-2014, 05:16 PM   #32
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Checked the wires but no luck on finding any loose or cut wires through out the trailer...everything looks secure...I'm thinking maybe there's something wrong with my Converter...I definitely have power coming from my battery though...I checked that
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Old 03-21-2014, 07:48 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 33zkine View Post
Checked the wires but no luck on finding any loose or cut wires through out the trailer...everything looks secure...I'm thinking maybe there's something wrong with my Converter...I definitely have power coming from my battery though...I checked that
Yes I was thinking the converter may be the issue.

If you can connect shore power to the trailer, you can disconnect the battery and see if the trailer converter is putting out DC to the lights. If no lights, the converter is not working. Could be the breaker or a hidden fuse. If you also get no AC on the receptacles its likely a defective converter.

The converters usually carry on forever since there are no moving parts and little usage. But a voltage spike may have toasted it.
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:55 PM   #34
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Thanks for the troubleshoot beerjay!...I just tried that but lights and fan work...Whew...Thought I was going to have to buy a new "very expensive" converter
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:45 PM   #35
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I used to have a Forest River fiver. There was a bundle of wires in the front compartment near the battery that had a bunch of what looked similar to wire nuts. However, if you took one of the covers off, there were 12V fuses in them. One of those had a habit of blowing on my power rear stabilizer jacks if you retracted the jacks too far. You might check for hidden fuses like those somewhere. Good luck with your troubleshooting. Electrical troubleshooting in RVs is made more difficult by the fact that the units don't come with a wiring diagram.
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:48 AM   #36
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If you are getting a hot open reading check to see if the GFCI is reset. With no lights on the test plug tells me that you are not getting power to the unit. It could be a defective GFCI. Since you are getting power to the converter the problem is only with the electrical outlets. If all the outlets are not working then the problem is most likely a damaged GFCI.
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Old 03-22-2014, 08:40 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caper
If you are getting a hot open reading check to see if the GFCI is reset. With no lights on the test plug tells me that you are not getting power to the unit. It could be a defective GFCI. Since you are getting power to the converter the problem is only with the electrical outlets. If all the outlets are not working then the problem is most likely a damaged GFCI.
Or possibly the a/c circuit breaker feeding the outlets. Looks closed, but is it?
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:29 AM   #38
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Hey Caper...I changed the GFCI Outlet...Maybe the new one I installed is defective? I am concerned with the fact that when I press the test button on it (GFCI Outlet) the reset button won't pop out so I can reset it...
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:31 AM   #39
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The GFCI outlet has a line and a load side if it's wired backwards it will not work. If you can use a volt meter to check it out.
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:32 AM   #40
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Or possibly the a/c circuit breaker feeding the outlets. Looks closed, but is it?
Yeah VinceU, I checked both the circuit breakers numerous times and they both close each time I've checked
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