Intermittent braking failure

[CedarCreekWoody]

I'm also a fan of liquid tape but I don't want to drift the subject from the OP's original issue. I do thanks for for the idea.

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

I was hoping to not cut the factory wiring but I expect that I will have to. You solution is sound.

You could replace the generic harness with a plug n play from one of the sources below;



https://www.reesehitches.com/product...d=35&group_id=

https://www.etrailer.com/t1-2019_Ram...oseneck_Wiring

[Mike134]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

I have made 3-ways for years by just taking 3 regular ring type connectors and joining with either machine screw and nut or just a pop rivet. Sometimes I've even soldered the rings after joining with screw.
Lots of liquid electrical tape to finish the job.

That is actually a better way than a 3-way held together with a pop rivet. When we connect 480V motor leads to the incoming wires the motor manufacturers have already crimped on ring connectors for us to nut and bolt them to ring connectors we have put on the end of the incoming wires.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by rracer5

You could replace the generic harness with a plug n play from one of the sources below;



https://www.reesehitches.com/product...d=35&group_id=

https://www.etrailer.com/t1-2019_Ram...oseneck_Wiring

I'm really liking this! I've ever liked the idea of splicing into the factory wiring. I think I will look into replacing the entire assemble and replacing it with one of those you mention. Thanks!

[kcmusa]

You can get a vehicular specific plug. I did and just unplugged the factory connection and used the adapter to have both running.

https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-...CABEgLq4_D_BwE

[CedarCreekWoody]

I replaced the faulty installation with the Curt direct fit cable referenced in post 22. It works perfectly as a plug and play install, replacing the mess shown in the photos below:

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

I replaced the faulty installation with the Curt direct fit cable referenced in post 22. It works perfectly as a plug and play install, replacing the mess shown in the photos below:

Yup....that was ugly!

[Lins]

Originally Posted by Mike Ambrose

Thanks to all for your thoughts. I have cleaned and greased the 7 pin connector again, and so far it seems to be working. If it happens again at least I know where to start looking, assuming I can stopped of course...
Now, to figure out why my batteries go dead in a week. Different thread of course.

I'm a bit late to this party, but I have some good info on how the factory Ram brake controllers work for an FYI.

I had a similar issue when I bought a used gooseneck trailer November 2019. The factory brake controllers need to 'see' the brakes via resistance (and I'm assuming continuity still) in the brake circuit. If the controller doesn't see that, it won't even try to apply brakes which is frustrating. I've used dielectric on a couple trailers that I know have good brakes and wiring with excellent results. As for the gooseneck I ended up having to rewire the brakes for it to work properly. New low temp pigtail from the junction box forward and then new brake wires from the junction box back to magnet wires. It worked properly after that.

[Mike Ambrose]

Thank you for all the replies. I still have the problem, and it doesn't help that it is intermittent in nature - I THINK it happens every OTHER time I apply the brakes, which makes it even harder to diagnose. Though we are having a California winter (72 degrees yesterday), I haven't been able to work on it for a while. I plan to test the truck's 7 pin with a testing tool, next will trace the trailer wiring back to the junction with the trailer wiring. Hopeful that I will find a fault somewhere in there as several folks have suggested.
AMAZING the knowledge out there on this site, thank you all.

Mike

[CedarCreekWoody]

Mike is the 7 pin connector on your truck a factory install or an add on? If it is an add on check where the wires are connected to the factory wiring. It could be clipped on as I've described above. I had the same intermittent braking and error messages.

[D W]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

I replaced the faulty installation with the Curt direct fit cable referenced in post 22. It works perfectly as a plug and play install, replacing the mess shown in the photos below:

That's what's commonly referred to as a "butcher job".

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by D W

That's what's commonly referred to as a "butcher job".

Well named!

[Relaxin in the woods]

I think butchers are much more precise than that. My first thought on seeing the pic was mice.

[CedarCreekWoody]

No, not mice. That is what I found under the tape as I disassembled it. I'm just showing the type of clips used, the damage it does to the wiring, and the reason the connections are intermittent.

[nayther]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Many, if not all, trailers have a junction box where the 7-wire cord joins the wiring in the trailer. Not unusual to find a loose connection there on any one of the wires. Mine had "wire nuts" wrapped with tape. When I decided to do a more professional job with a terminal strip, several of the wires separated when I was removing the tape. So much for "solid connections".

Similar on mine, found where the 7 pin/breakaway switch, was connected to the hot lead to the brakes they jammed too many wires into a crimped "wire nut" style connector and only a few strands were actually inside the crimp, could not get decent voltage to the magnets, redid the connection and they work. To make them REALLY work the wire gage needs to be upgraded from the j box to the magnets, the little 22 gauge wire is a joke.

[Mike Ambrose]

Cedar Creek Woody:
The wiring is original Ram, not an add on. Super annoying because it is so intermittent and therefore hard to trace. I have decided to trade in my 1500 for a 2500, as is so often suggested in these pages. Hopefully that will solve the other problem...

[DaveAlb]

Originally Posted by Mike Ambrose

I have a 3 month old FR Heritage Glen Wildwood 271RL, tow with a 2019 Ram Classic 1500 (I have weighed it all, reduced tongue weight by 360 lbs and am under on every number, but not by much LOL) for the weight police out there - Too many folks don't understand there is much more to it than "Towing capacity" - but I digress.

Recently started having intermittent dash notifications come up to "Check trailer wiring" or "Trailer brakes disconnected". When one or the other appears, I suddenly have NO trailer brakes. They don't activate manually either. Then for no reason, they work again. Seems like it should be a bad 7 pin connector, but I have cleaned and used contact grease on it, so don't think it's the problem.

Anyone have any ideas? It's a long tow and a long wait at the dealer, so hoping to be able to correct it before I actually have to stop...

Thanks

I’m having an intermittent braking problems with my 2018 hyperlyte and my 2016 Ford 150. Getting the trailer brake wiring fault. Can anyone recommend a good content cleaner? Do I have to disconnect the power to use the cleaner?
DaveAlb

[DaveAlb]

I mean a good contact cleaner for my camper pigtail and it’s male counterpart on the truck.
DaveAlb

[dedobias]

All grease is not equal. Contact grease is very different from dielectric.

Dielectric grease, or tune-up grease, is a silicone-based grease that repels moisture and protects electrical connections against corrosion. ... The grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn't be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection.

[dedobias]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NB14C2C...WYDWSCJ2CVN35T