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Old 10-15-2016, 11:23 AM   #21
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This sounds like the best solution. Having most of the outlets hot scares me: my concern is training my kids (and monster-in-law) as to power savings when we aren't on shore power. Single battery and no generator to recharge makes me nervous. But, I do like the model/design.

Lots to think about- thanks to all who responded.

eplenty, what's to scare? size the AC OUT breaker to limit the load if you need to ... the inverter will protect itself... that is not to say kids on gaming devices won't run the battery down. I can set my Magnum to cutoff at a predefined battery voltage to prevent that from happening. Then they sell batteries every day.
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Old 10-15-2016, 11:27 AM   #22
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on post #21 I was trying to respond to #19
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Old 10-15-2016, 10:16 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein View Post
Oops, that is pretty marginal. A CPAP with the humidifier turned off draws about 50 watts, which is maybe 4.5 amps at 12 volts. Throw in a hundred watts for the TV for or 4 hours and you are going to draw down pretty fast. No generator and only charging via the TV will have a hard time replacing that in a reasonable time. My rig is a class A with 4 12 volt deep cycles and a residential reefer. Most of the time I end up using the inverter for the CPAP and a satellite receiver and a TV. Of course, when driving on the road it really doesn't matter since my alternator supplies more than enough power to offset any inverter use.



I would consider adding another 12 volt battery when you install.
I'll run the CPAP without the humidifier, so that cuts 1/2 or more of the power consumption.

There's no satellite and hopefully the Rokus don't draw much.

We'll see. I'm not against another battery- I'm constrained on weight (I'm already running the camper overweight) and the space for it is a right pain in the butt!).



Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfWhistle View Post
eplenty, what's to scare? size the AC OUT breaker to limit the load if you need to ... the inverter will protect itself... that is not to say kids on gaming devices won't run the battery down. I can set my Magnum to cutoff at a predefined battery voltage to prevent that from happening. Then they sell batteries every day.
WW

It's really a matter of running the battery down with random stuff being plugged in and used. Even before this, if we are actively using the camper- I don't get a ton of time in it. We have upgraded to LEDs all around and I'm hopeful that helps. I'll add a battery if I have to.
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Old 10-15-2016, 10:17 PM   #24
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I really can't wait for this inverter, though. Right this instant, I'm at a Walmart and here's how I have to power my CPAP (inverter plugged into truck and extension cord in thru camper window):

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Old 10-16-2016, 10:54 AM   #25
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That's awesome!
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:21 PM   #26
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I used to hang an extension cord out the window from my reefer inverter and run it into the bedroom window! At least you have proven that 40 feet of 110 volt line is not a problem!
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Old 08-30-2017, 03:43 PM   #27
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OK ependydad, you have a good start and a good inverter, now all you have to do is install it correctly. This may solve a little involved, but trust me, you will love it and it will do exactly what you need. I did this on my Georgetown 335 and it is probably the best thing I ever did. You have to do a real factory installation, not an after market add on. Here is what you need to do.

1) Plug into shore power and look at your power panel. You will probably find two 15 amp breakers for outlets, one for the GFIs (galley, bath, outside) and the other for the rest of the plugs. On my unit the one for the non-gfis powers all of the outlets in the bedroom and on the driver side of the coach. It also powers the bedroom TV and the living room TV. You can find out what you will get by turning it off to see what goes off.

2) Buy a Xantrex automatic transfer switch https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Inlin.../dp/B004S5Y158 You should be able to get it for 40 to 50 dollars.

3) from the breaker box find the wire that runs from the outlet breaker to the outlets and install an octagonal electric box and the two stripped leads from the transfer switch.

4) locate the inverter within reach of the plug on the transfer switch or run a good 12 gauge extension cord from that plug to the location of the inverter. This line is 120 volt and will not be subject to significant voltage drops, especially since it is 12 gauge.

5) plug it into the inverter and connect the DC side and fuses to your battery bank.

6) run the remote on/off switch to a convenient location.

Now, when you apply shore power or generator power, the transfer switch will automatically drop out and the inverter will idle (of course you can turn it off if you want to.) When the shore power drops or the generator is turned off, the outlets will automatically be powered by the inverter.

On my rig, which has both a rear converter and a rear power cable, the drop from the power panel was straight down and I powered the inverter by piggybacking it onto the converter output lugs (with a 100 amp fuse.)

Trust me...it is almost like they designed the RV to do this and there are no cords and no switches to throw. It is perfect and effortless.
Resurrecting this super old thread. I've carried that dang inverter around for thousands of miles.

I'm now upgrading my battery bank to 4x100ah lithium batteries. I'll have a generator for recharging.

I like the idea that you've presented here. I was considering cheating- turning off all of the breakers and just running a 15amp cord back to the camper's power inlet. Then turning on just specific breakers.

What you've presented is cleaner and automatic. It only makes outlets hot, but that is generally good enough for a vast majority of what I'm doing. The only real exception is that we like to use the fan on the A/C to move air and give us white noise... maybe we'll just reconsider that requirement.
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