Inverter fusing?

[Boomerweps]

Getting in a 2000 watt inverter to install. Currently (pun intended) I have two 100AH LiFePO4 batteries connected in parallel via terminal blocks with 2AWG cables. I plan to remount the batteries and connect them directly in parallel with shorter 1/0 AWG cables. Routing the inverter output via an external Marine outlet. Then I can use a cable from that outlet to my primary AC power inlet via adapters to run the microwave or TV or into my auxiliary power input that just feeds an added duplex wall outlet by the dinette for toaster and coffee maker. I ordered a 200amp DC circuit breaker with switch for the inverter positive lead. Is that appropriate? The inverter will be connected direct to the closest battery via the CB.
I also have two 50AMP DC CB I intend to put on the individual positive battery leads. Adaquate, appropriate?
The existing terminal blocks connect the TT 12vdc system via a battery disconnect and direct to solar controller output.
Looking for considerations missed. I might end up replacing the inverter supplied cables with thicker ones, won’t know till I have them in hand. I’ve read they are often a bit smaller than best.

[Homer Vista]

Following... similar situation... just installed solar, 570AH Li batteries and 2200W inverter. I also have a 200A breaker and 200A ANL fuse to install. The microwave will probably be the biggest draw at around 1400W surge. That an an induction cookplate.

[Boomerweps]

I just watched a couple Australian Utube videos. Seems using an induction cooktop is the current thing for overlanding there with the smaller trailers after adding solar and an inverter.

[PhilFromMaine]

Originally Posted by Boomerweps

Getting in a 2000 watt inverter to install. Currently (pun intended) I have two 100AH LiFePO4 batteries connected in parallel via terminal blocks with 2AWG cables. I plan to remount the batteries and connect them directly in parallel with shorter 1/0 AWG cables. Routing the inverter output via an external Marine outlet. Then I can use a cable from that outlet to my primary AC power inlet via adapters to run the microwave or TV or into my auxiliary power input that just feeds an added duplex wall outlet by the dinette for toaster and coffee maker. I ordered a 200amp DC circuit breaker with switch for the inverter positive lead. Is that appropriate? The inverter will be connected direct to the closest battery via the CB.
I also have two 50AMP DC CB I intend to put on the individual positive battery leads. Adaquate, appropriate?
The existing terminal blocks connect the TT 12vdc system via a battery disconnect and direct to solar controller output.
Looking for considerations missed. I might end up replacing the inverter supplied cables with thicker ones, won’t know till I have them in hand. I’ve read they are often a bit smaller than best.

Just remember the purpose of a fuse is to protect the wire. The wire should be sized to accept the max available amperage the batteries can produce.

https://www.altestore.com/diy-solar-...kers-or-fuses/

[Homer Vista]

Originally Posted by Boomerweps

I just watched a couple Australian Utube videos. Seems using an induction cooktop is the current thing for overlanding there with the smaller trailers after adding solar and an inverter.

And Van-Lifers...

[Homer Vista]

Originally Posted by PhilFromMaine

Just remember the purpose of a fuse is to protect the wire. The wire should be sized to accept the max available amperage the batteries can produce.

https://www.altestore.com/diy-solar-...kers-or-fuses/

Key word for this chart is CONTINUOUS... nobody runs a 2000W inverter continuously at 2000W unless they're testing it... my microwave and coffee maker run at around 1000W for minutes at a time...

[PhilFromMaine]

Originally Posted by Homer Vista

Key word for this chart is CONTINUOUS... nobody runs a 2000W inverter continuously at 2000W unless they're testing it... my microwave and coffee maker run at around 1000W for minutes at a time...

Homer, agreed, except if is by accident. For instance, wife and daughter are busily cooking in the kitchen using AC and I am using outside AC for something. Next thing is either the inverter shuts down, or it it is wired incorrectly, a possible fire.

[rk06382]

I installed a Samlex EVO-2212 in 2018 with 4/0awg cable. Rated Continuous DC Input Current of a 2200w is 266a. Power Boost up to 120% (2640W) for 5 min. I upgraded to a EVO-3012 Inverter/Charger in 2019.

The total feet is the distance to & from the Inverter. My Inverter/Charger is three feet from the battery bank. Total run is under ten feet. I used 4/0awg cables and a 400a fuse.

[Boomerweps]

Finished my inverter install. My inverter is mounted to the battery “bank”. With the 200 amp circuit breaker mounted to the same wood box. Have 1/0 AWG parallel cables and 2 AWG direct from one battery (positive via the CB) to the inverter. The wired inverter remote control is installed on the face of the front bed support near the door. Haven’t finalized boxing everything in for better protection in the storage area. I know, I committed sacrilege, two different brand batteries. Oh, the horror!
The plug in the inverter supplies an exterior mounted marine/boat receptacle. Then another cable is used to connect from the marine receptacle to main TT power inlet via an adapter.
12’ 12 AWG cable or my 25’ 10AWG regular shore power cord can be used. Both have similar line losses, under 1/2 a volt.
I also have a marine receptacle inlet 15 amp plug that supplies a single duplex receptacle by my dinette table. I could just use that and not have to worry about shutting off the converter when using the inverter. No microwave then but I could still use the coffee maker and toaster. I usually run a seperate 15 amp cord from the camp power pedestal to there, better power management on days when the air conditioning & water heater are on and I’m occasionally using the microwave.

[DES-1]

Is there a reason you chose not to power all the existing 110v outlets with inverter power, including microwave? It just a matter of feeding the shore power cable and the inverter output cable into an auto transfer switch, which then feeds into breaker panel.

[Boomerweps]

Originally Posted by DES-1

Is there a reason you chose not to power all the existing 110v outlets with inverter power, including microwave? It just a matter of feeding the shore power cable and the inverter output cable into an auto transfer switch, which then feeds into breaker panel.

I don’t think it’s worth the effort and parts cost on my 2019 Wolf Pup BHS16. Just sunk the $$ into two batteries, the inverter, some solar, and all the wire. I can run everything (but air conditioning) once tripping the converter breaker, by plugging my shore power cable into the marine receptacle connected to the inverter. IF boondocking, the fridge and water heater will be run on propane anyways.
Between COVID and age/health issues, we don’t use the TT anywhere near as much as I’d like. That has a major affect on cost effectiveness considerations.

Side issue, my TT only came with with one exterior duplex outlet, TWO exposed interior duplex outlets, and two hidden interior single outlets (water heater & microwave). Not even one near the TV mount, I have to run an extension cord from by the stove. Again, how much effort to gain those working worth it? My next project will be adding a lighted interior electric water heater switch.

[Bob K4TAX]

Inverters are themselves protected internally by fuses.

Since they are high current demand devices, anything in the POS or NEG path between the battery and inverter adds resistance of some small amount. Every piece of cable and every connector and every connection, although small, adds up. This can cause the inverter to shut down due to low voltage at the inverter, while the voltage at the battery is perfectly normal.

I don't favor adding fuses or circuit breakers in the DC path from the battery to the inverter.

Bob

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Bob K4TAX

Inverters are themselves protected internally by fuses.



Since they are high current demand devices, anything in the POS or NEG path between the battery and inverter adds resistance of some small amount. Every piece of cable and every connector and every connection, although small, adds up. This can cause the inverter to shut down due to low voltage at the inverter, while the voltage at the battery is perfectly normal.



I don't favor adding fuses or circuit breakers in the DC path from the battery to the inverter.



Bob

Interesting thoughts.

Every Forest River product I've had with an inverter (2) has had circuit protection in the 12v supply. My current Cedar Creek has a 100a fuse in the positive cable to the inverter from the battery.

My current WFCO inverter has a circuit breaker on the OUTPUT side but none on the input side. It does have reverse polarity protection. There is no mention of internal, fused input protection that I've read.

I don't believe I'd install one like mine without DC circuit protection, nor any other DC device.

[Boomerweps]

Originally Posted by Bob K4TAX

Inverters are themselves protected internally by fuses.

Since they are high current demand devices, anything in the POS or NEG path between the battery and inverter adds resistance of some small amount. Every piece of cable and every connector and every connection, although small, adds up. This can cause the inverter to shut down due to low voltage at the inverter, while the voltage at the battery is perfectly normal.

I don't favor adding fuses or circuit breakers in the DC path from the battery to the inverter.

Bob

Noted. Do NOT concur. I’d rather err on the side of safety. I’ve seen what happens when a battery is completely shorted. And I fear that.

While reviewing inverter installs and info, I saw several people replacing those internal fuses. They were a major PITA to replace, basically requiring field stripping the inverter to get to the fuse.