inverter question ??

[melmax]

I have a 2020 Flagstaff EPRO 19FBS TT.
I have having some issues with the factory installed 1000 watt invertor.
I have answered some other members questions on this same problem and helped them out. So I don't need to know how to fix this issue. What I need is to understand why it is happening. Here's the problem.
I am in a campground and hooked up to 30 amp power. No issues there.
If I get careless and say, have a slow cooker plugged in to the 115 outlets, then plug in an electrical kettle, the breaker will go as there is to much current draw.
All of that makes sense. The problem is, I don't trip a breaker in my Convertor which would be an easy re-set. What happens is a breaker on my Invertor trip and needs to be reset. The Invertor is located inside a cupboard and secured behind a panel screwed to the wall. I now hve to empty out the cupboard, unscrew the panel and re-set the breaker on the Invertor, then replace the panel and everything back into the cupboard. No breakers in the Convertor trip, just the inaccesable one on the Invertor. That doesn't make sense to me. Whats the point of the breakers in the Convertor if its just the pain in the butt Invertor breaker that trips.
Maybe Im missing something here but this seems stupid.
I would appreciate any input from you RV Geniuses out there.
THANKS

[A32Deuce]

Ran into this myself. If on shore power, the inverter will not pass through any wattage over what it is rated for. Did it 3 times before I realized it. If on battery power, the inverter trips for the same reason before the converter would activate.
Generally, the inverter only draws power from the batterys without shore power. Pass through mode on shore power.

[cavie]

The inverter location is STUPID and also against the National Electric Code to which the RV is supposed to be wired. ALL electric devices must be accessible without the use of ladders or tools. The problem is with the fact that the RV world is not subject to inspections.

Your only recourse is to learn what plugs are on the inverter circuit and NOT over load them. OR Move the inverter. Learning what to use is easier.

If they had inspections from an independant source we wold not have anything to talk about on these forums.

[CHICKDOE]

i'm making some assumptions. from what you say you have a separate inverter and converter. it sounds as if your have some outlets that are powered by the inverter. it either passes shore power through to the outlets or inverts battery power and feeds it out to the outlets. as mentioned, the inverter output will be limited by the 1000 watt output rating of the inverter.

with a separate converter its main function is to recharge the batteries. if you are on shore power the inverter is passing shore power through to the outlets and is not inverting battery power. in this configuration your converter is just coasting as the batteries are not demanding a recharge.

how about plugging either the slow cooker or electric kettle into two different outlets, at least one of which is not fed by the inverter? may need a small extension cord.

[formerFR]

as a larger coach owner, with a 'whole house' Inverter setup, powering ALL OUTLETS in the coach, I suspect that your 'outlets' you are plugging your high draw appliances into are also run thru the INVERTER, which is a bonus when you need them when off-grid, but can also pose a problem when you try to use 'too much' amperage, even when plugged into full 30amp power...

here's why:

the INVERTER is set up to provide 1000w output power, and therefore will only allow that much, EVEN if you are on full 30amp campground power - BECAUSE, the outlets you have your appliances plugged into are being power by the inverter, or, in this case, the inverter is 'passing thru' the 120v power from the campground. REGARDLESS, though, if the inverter sees more AMPS than it is designed for, it will still TRIP it's breaker.

What can you do?

Find your outlets that are NOT powered by the Inverter, and use THEM to power your high draw appliances when you are plugged into shore power. This way, those outlets are not impacted in any way by the Inverter, only each circuit's individual breaker.

[tomkatb]

Educate me here.

A 1000 watt I thought was only good for 7-8 amps of power. Usually for a refrigerator only! No chance for using two items or an insta pot?

Also battery size matters. State of charge?

Also wire to the battery from the inverter matters.

It could be one if many issues.

[formerFR]

It's true that most 'smaller' Inverters of this size seem to be normally dedicated to the 120v Residential Fridge, but it's also quite possible that some factories are starting to listen to customer feedback and provide some other outlets that can also be used by the owner, thru the Inverter.

Under normal circumstances, the use of the Fridge and another appliance, a high-draw heating appliance, might work, but adding the second high-draw appliance certainly takes it over the amperage limit of the Inverter's fuse/breaker.
High-draw appliances, like the one's mentioned, tend to ask for a LOT of amps - and while a single one might work fine thru the Inverter's 'pass-thru' feed, adding additional amps may not, especially if the Fridge's compressor is running, or comes on during that time.

We found that with our Coffee Maker, it's not a 'constant' high-draw, but more of a slow On/Off over 5-10 seconds each time, while brewing. I can watch my Magnum Inverter VOLTS readout while it's brewing and see the effects. If off-grid, and only on the inverter, the Inverter CAN handle the power, but if it brings down the batteries to below 11.5volts for more than 30 consecutive seconds, the Inverter will automatically power off, saving the batteries from over-draw.

[ScottBrownstein]

The problem with a residential reefer is that they are supposed to be on their own circuit. If the manufacturer puts a couple of outlets on the output of the inverter as well, they will share the circuit, which is not recommended by the manufacturer.

[formerFR]

I would dare say that most Inverter Sub-panels in 'whole house' coaches don't dedicate a whole circuit just for the fridge, maybe the microwave, but not the fridge.

Mine has 4 - 15amp circuits for the Inverter...
1- outlets in the front of the coach, including the residential fridge
2- outlets in the rear of the coach
3- GFCI outlets for the bath and kitchen/outside
4- outlet for the microwave

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by formerFR

I would dare say that most Inverter Sub-panels in 'whole house' coaches don't dedicate a whole circuit just for the fridge, maybe the microwave, but not the fridge.

Mine has 4 - 15amp circuits for the Inverter...
1- outlets in the front of the coach, including the residential fridge
2- outlets in the rear of the coach
3- GFCI outlets for the bath and kitchen/outside
4- outlet for the microwave

Either way, it is a requirement of the NEC for major appliances...including refrigerators.