Originally Posted by camaraderie
The Trojan 24TMX is a fine battery...but it is still a group 24 which is kinda dead minimum since you only get to use 42 amphours before a recharge is needed.
Since you're replacing...now is the time to consider if you need more capacity, if you have room for more capacity & how you plan to make these batteries last.
BEST scenario would be if you have room for a couple of 6V golfcart batteries which would take you to over 200 amp hours@ 12V. They can be had at Sams/Costco under various labels typically made by Johnson Controls and for not much more $$ than the Trojan group 24.
BETTER scenario would be to see if you have space for a single Group 31 or Group 27 deep cycle Trojan and improve your capacity 20-30%.
GOOD scenario is as you suggest...subbing an excellent group24 trojan for a dual purpose dealer money saver.
If you don't boondock and are always plugged in...GOOD is good enough...otherwise think about going a bit further.
Get one of these too...so parasitic loads don't get you in the future!
8 bucks at Amazon.
I pretty much never boondock, every place we've been to has power, but I do occasionally go turn the fridge on on propane out at the storage yard about 24 hrs before taking off on a trip. I'm not opposed to boondocking, we might have for needed to for a concert weekend if DW could have gotten the time off work, but so far we haven't.
As far as size, I could possibly fit 2 Group 24s, as my battery box only takes up 1/2 the space on my tongue, the other half is my marker light switch:
This box could be easily moved somewhere else and then I'd just need to get a larger battery box. But considering we don't boondock, I don't know if it would be worth it at this time.
And I do have a disconnect, the plunger style under the fridge, that I use whenever I'm not hooked up except for that pre-24 fridge running time. So I don't think it was parasitic loads that pulled it down, but instead something that caused the battery to not hold a charge. To recap the whole scenario:
1) Put TT in storage for winter, hit disconnect.
2) Had a heck of a cold winter, worried about battery, started this thread.
3) Pulled battery once snow melted enough to get to TT, was at 12v.
4) Put on charger, charged up to 13.xx (don't remember exactly what)
5) Put back in TT, went out on first trip.
6) Parked after first trip, hit disconnect.
7) Went out on second trip, first location. Still no problems.
8) Went from first location to second location, still no problems.
9) Hooked up at second location, was plugged in so didn't pay attention to problems.
10) Came home, had no power to jack. Assumed I blew fuse like I used before I learned where to stop the jack, checked fuse. All seemed ok. Plugged in, jack worked fine.
11) Hooked up TT while plugged in so jacked worked, went to storage lot.
12) Still no power to jack. Put jack down plugged into TV.
13) Tried to put slide out to get to battery disconnect, no power to slide, plugged back into TV and put slide out, hit disconnect, put slide back in.
14) Unhooked from TV, checked voltage, 8v. Thought "Oh Sh*t" and revived this thread.
15) Went on third trip, used TV and/or plugged in for all power needs.
16) Came home, unpacked without unhooking trailer, dropped off at dealer's for other work (tagged a tree back in step 9 and needed to get the eaves-trough replaced)
17) Pulled battery to bring in. Checked battery, 1v.
18) Brought to Trojan dealer, left with him to see if there's any hope
and that pretty much brings us up to date.
So as far as I can figure it, all that time it was plugged in and/or hooked up to the TV it should have been charging the battery, but wasn't. As far as I know, it hasn't charged since I had it on the battery charger before my first trip. I've checked any resetable CBs and fuses in the TT that I could find, and all seem ok.
My assumptions are that since all my 12v works when plugged in that my converter is working fine, and even if it wasn't then the battery should have been charging anytime I was connect to the TV. Leading me to the final conclusion that yes, the battery is dead, and even if it wasn't, just by being purged down to 1v it's still probably dead.