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Old 03-02-2018, 07:01 PM   #21
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Less than $20 with a shunt. China! Best value out there.

bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS..._owEMAbECN150D
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Old 03-02-2018, 07:13 PM   #22
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Less than $20 with a shunt. China! Best value out there.

bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS..._owEMAbECN150D
Don't know of quality, but problem with 100amp limit. Victron & others have 500 amp shunts. I run my AC via inverter - over 100 amp dc loads.


Might be good to monitor branch circuit lines if 100amp never exceeded.
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Old 03-02-2018, 08:19 PM   #23
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Don't know of quality, but problem with 100amp limit. Victron & others have 500 amp shunts. I run my AC via inverter - over 100 amp dc loads.


Might be good to monitor branch circuit lines if 100amp never exceeded.


$12 for a 250amp shunt. That’s good for 2,000w inverter.
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Old 03-02-2018, 08:26 PM   #24
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Battery meeter

Your wright 270S, you have AGM battery`s you have the money to by the new expensive gadget, there is no way out.
For me,that`s why I stick with 3 groupe 27 acid battery`s and 2 marine switch`s and never run out of juce.
I check with my densety acid tester and never go below 50%.
I also have a Rioby 2000 inverter generator and a 90 watts solar panel and a 700 watts inverter for the fridge when traveling on the road.
IT work good for me.
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Old 03-02-2018, 08:29 PM   #25
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I purchased, via ebay, a small monitor panel that displays battery voltage, wattage load, percentage used, and a few other things. You set the size of your battery bank (in my case 2x120AH = 240AH) and it takes it from there. You can change the display via 3 push buttons, which cycle through an array of possible data readouts, or you can turn off the display (the LEDs are bright). The panel is small, easy to wire in and has more data than my Projecta inverter remote control and readout panel.

Now the question will be, what make, model, etc. No idea. I will see if I can find the original packing and/or instruction sheet and get back to you.
This is it.








Battery Monitor DC120V 30A Dual Digital Voltmeter...

Item ID: 152279089945


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Old 03-03-2018, 12:41 AM   #26
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I went with the Victron 702. Like the ability to monitor battery temperature.
Now basically replaced by the 712 with built in bluetooth.
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Old 03-03-2018, 12:49 AM   #27
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larry2c and 270s, I am in complete agreement with you, and I don't use one either. I was just supplementing the other comment with the caution to be cognizant of other factors, such as temperature. I probably should have included something along the lines that you two pointed out as well. Thanks for posting them.
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Old 03-03-2018, 07:23 AM   #28
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I want to be more conscious of how my batteries are doing (going to be buying new ones before too long) so I'm looking at a way to better monitor them than the idiot lights on the main control panel. I have a friend who has one of these digital volt meters and he says "it does the job". Does the job is good enough for me, I just spent close to $300 on a PI EMS and shore power disconnect conversion kit so need to quit emptying the wallet for a while.

So if this is worth getting and installing, does it have any parasitic impact on the battery once you switch the battery disconnect to off?
We solved the power problem very easily. We only camp where full hookups are available, preferably with cable tv also. We stopped roughing it years ago. If we wanted to boondock it, we would have a tent. Fifty thousand dollars for a truck and thirty thousand for the trailer, at my age i am not going to worry anymore.
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Old 03-03-2018, 09:06 AM   #29
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Thanks all - pulled the trigger on the one sold on Ebay. I think it will do the job for what we need and if things change in the future, we'll see what else we need to do.

rlocicero - I get where you're coming from but we live near the desert and enjoy camping out there. Also, many of the state parks we go to don't have power or only have it in a few sites. Calling it Boondocking may be a bit of a stretch for some of those CG's but the DW still counts it towards the "where you like to camp" tally
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Old 03-03-2018, 12:46 PM   #30
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Now basically replaced by the 712 with built in bluetooth.
The 702 is still current. It's a lower cost version of the 712 as they left the bluetooth out. If you aren't going to use the bluetooth, why pay for it.
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Old 03-03-2018, 01:03 PM   #31
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The 702 is still current. It's a lower cost version of the 712 as they left the bluetooth out. If you aren't going to use the bluetooth, why pay for it.
According to Victron, the 702 is going to be phased out.

Same is happening with the solar controllers.
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Old 03-03-2018, 01:14 PM   #32
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According to Victron, the 702 is going to be phased out.

Same is happening with the solar controllers.

Time to buy one then if you don't need/want the bluetooth feature.
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Old 03-03-2018, 01:24 PM   #33
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Time to buy one then if you don't need/want the bluetooth feature.
For the people that don't understand the benefits of having bluetooth, that is very true.
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Old 03-05-2018, 04:26 PM   #34
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I run the Victron BMV700 as well and it’s worth the $150 price tag to me twice over.

On my first camper I tried the cheap eBay route, but the problem is, none of those keep track of cumulative amp hours used. So unless you are sitting there watching it with a calculator and timer all the time you don’t really have an idea of where your batteries are at. They are useful in seeing what appliances pull and then making estimates of how often and long they run. From there you can make a guesstimate of how long your batteries will last from normal usage based on capacity, but you’ll never be able to look at it and say my batteries are 75%.

On my last two campers I was tired of playing the best educated guessing game on battery status so I went with the Victron right off the bat on both. Money ahead in my book.
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Old 03-05-2018, 04:51 PM   #35
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I run the Victron BMV700 as well and it’s worth the $150 price tag to me twice over.

On my first camper I tried the cheap eBay route, but the problem is, none of those keep track of cumulative amp hours used. So unless you are sitting there watching it with a calculator and timer all the time you don’t really have an idea of where your batteries are at. They are useful in seeing what appliances pull and then making estimates of how often and long they run. From there you can make a guesstimate of how long your batteries will last from normal usage based on capacity, but you’ll never be able to look at it and say my batteries are 75%.

On my last two campers I was tired of playing the best educated guessing game on battery status so I went with the Victron right off the bat on both. Money ahead in my book.
The unit I showed earlier keeps track of wattage used and shows percentage of battery left.
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Old 03-05-2018, 04:57 PM   #36
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I run the Victron BMV700 as well and it’s worth the $150 price tag to me twice over.

On my first camper I tried the cheap eBay route, but the problem is, none of those keep track of cumulative amp hours used. So unless you are sitting there watching it with a calculator and timer all the time you don’t really have an idea of where your batteries are at. They are useful in seeing what appliances pull and then making estimates of how often and long they run. From there you can make a guesstimate of how long your batteries will last from normal usage based on capacity, but you’ll never be able to look at it and say my batteries are 75%.

On my last two campers I was tired of playing the best educated guessing game on battery status so I went with the Victron right off the bat on both. Money ahead in my book.
^^^ plus, the "inexpensive" monitors may use a shunt to measure current, and calculate amp hours etc, but you won't find one that implements Peukerts Law in the calculations. They assume that if you draw 50 AH from a battery and replace 50 AH with a battery charger, then the battery is back up to 100%. They don't take into consideration the inefficiencies of a Lead Acid battery when it's subjected to different rates of discharge or charge.

The Victron monitors should be OE on a MH where you can monitor not only house batteries but starter battery too. Not a pleasant feeling when your house batteries are "flat" and you go to start either coach engine or generator only to find them dead too.

I find it strange that the "industry" hasn't upgraded their thinking on battery systems. If one pays $40K and up for a TT (and a whole lot more for a MH) why not include a decent battery monitor, at least as a factory option?

Also, instead of BARE MINIMUM SIZE WIRE from converter to battery, upgrade at least one size (from #8 to #6, etc).
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Old 03-05-2018, 05:58 PM   #37
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The unit I showed earlier keeps track of wattage used and shows percentage of battery left.
I guess if you're within the amp limits of that unit and accuracy isn't all that important, go for it.

I run a 2000 watt inverter, so the amp limitations of those don't even put them in the running.
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Old 03-05-2018, 06:01 PM   #38
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^^^ plus, the "inexpensive" monitors may use a shunt to measure current, and calculate amp hours etc, but you won't find one that implements Peukerts Law in the calculations. They assume that if you draw 50 AH from a battery and replace 50 AH with a battery charger, then the battery is back up to 100%. They don't take into consideration the inefficiencies of a Lead Acid battery when it's subjected to different rates of discharge or charge.

The Victron monitors should be OE on a MH where you can monitor not only house batteries but starter battery too. Not a pleasant feeling when your house batteries are "flat" and you go to start either coach engine or generator only to find them dead too.

I find it strange that the "industry" hasn't upgraded their thinking on battery systems. If one pays $40K and up for a TT (and a whole lot more for a MH) why not include a decent battery monitor, at least as a factory option?

Also, instead of BARE MINIMUM SIZE WIRE from converter to battery, upgrade at least one size (from #8 to #6, etc).
I agree, but 90% of RV users always have hookups and the only need to have a battery at all is for when on the road. Hence why most travel trailers come with a single group 24 battery. Most people only use them to power the break away box when towing. Manufacturers aren't gonig to spend more money to cater to the 10% or less of customers that might get use out of it.
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Old 03-05-2018, 06:53 PM   #39
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I agree, but 90% of RV users always have hookups and the only need to have a battery at all is for when on the road. Hence why most travel trailers come with a single group 24 battery. Most people only use them to power the break away box when towing. Manufacturers aren't gonig to spend more money to cater to the 10% or less of customers that might get use out of it.
Did you note the part where I suggested it be an Option? A lot easier to install when unit is under construction.

For those who go from "hookup to hookup equipped campgrounds" I agree. For those who aren't afraid to pull off in a meadow or farm field and enjoy the peace and quiet (I do think we're a little more than 10%) then better monitoring is beneficial. Both to see if you are reaching the max desired discharge state or when to turn off the generator because the batteries are fully charged and you are now just burning gas.

The factories now pre-wire for backup/observation cameras, pre-wiring for a State Of Charge monitor like the Victron or Xantrex units would be no different.

All it would really take is someone at the "Factory" to say "You know, that sounds like a good idea" and then just implement it. In the case of a Victron it would merely be a case of routing the "Phone Wire" (multi conductor wire for display) from where the shunt could be installed to a vacant area on a wall panel.

For those who don't see the need or have the desire, don't hook it up.
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Old 03-05-2018, 11:40 PM   #40
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^^^ plus, the "inexpensive" monitors may use a shunt to measure current, and calculate amp hours etc, but you won't find one that implements Peukerts Law in the calculations. They assume that if you draw 50 AH from a battery and replace 50 AH with a battery charger, then the battery is back up to 100%. They don't take into consideration the inefficiencies of a Lead Acid battery when it's subjected to different rates of discharge or charge.

The Victron monitors should be OE on a MH where you can monitor not only house batteries but starter battery too. Not a pleasant feeling when your house batteries are "flat" and you go to start either coach engine or generator only to find them dead too.

I find it strange that the "industry" hasn't upgraded their thinking on battery systems. If one pays $40K and up for a TT (and a whole lot more for a MH) why not include a decent battery monitor, at least as a factory option?

Also, instead of BARE MINIMUM SIZE WIRE from converter to battery, upgrade at least one size (from #8 to #6, etc).
If you can see what the current (no pun intended) voltage is and the power consumed (what's watt), all else is just dressing it up. Who cares how the battery got back to full charge, whether it be by Peukert's or Parky's law, Einsteins theorem of relativity, Murphy's law of probabilities, or somebody else's grand gesture to science. Volts is volts. Current draw is load, that's all I need. The rest of it is just an exercise in pushing buttons.
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