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Old 03-26-2024, 09:08 PM   #1
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I've sorta lost track since I posted this.

http://https://www.forestriverforums...ar-269496.html

What comes to mind, is changing the lock cylinders to be all keyed alike.

Added a USB in the passthrough for the Levelmate Pro+

Added a 120V outlet in the passthrough for charging cordless tools, out of sight and out of the weather.

Added a new circuit with 2 outlets, one for the fireplace to come.

And just finished installing 600ah of lithium, a Multiplus 3K and upgraded the solar controller for the eventual 1200 watts on the roof.
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Old 03-26-2024, 11:25 PM   #2
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Moved thread from the Modifications and Updates section to the Electrical and Charging Systems sub-forum since the OP's post is specific to that sub-forum.
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Old 03-27-2024, 05:56 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ252 View Post
http://https://www.forestriverforums...ar-269496.html

What comes to mind, is changing the lock cylinders to be all keyed alike.

Added a USB in the passthrough for the Levelmate Pro+

Added a 120V outlet in the passthrough for charging cordless tools, out of sight and out of the weather.

Added a new circuit with 2 outlets, one for the fireplace to come.

And just finished installing 600ah of lithium, a Multiplus 3K and upgraded the solar controller for the eventual 1200 watts on the roof.
Nice work. But you would be well advised to use equal length battery cables to a buss bar and then to the load rather than short jumpers. If you want to know why I would be happy to explain. Or there are several threads on the subject
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Old 03-27-2024, 06:44 AM   #4
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Nice work. But you would be well advised to use equal length battery cables to a buss bar and then to the load rather than short jumpers. If you want to know why I would be happy to explain. Or there are several threads on the subject
Thanks but they are exactly the same length from the lynx distributor connection, to the battery. It may not look like it but they are. I even cut out the extra length of the fuse holder on the hot line, to assure that they stayed that way.

Other than that, this a common parallel connection and those cables are the same length too.

But perhaps I'm not understanding what you mean?
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Old 03-27-2024, 07:27 AM   #5
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Thanks but they are exactly the same length from the lynx distributor connection, to the battery. It may not look like it but they are. I even cut out the extra length of the the fuse holder on the hot line, to assure that they stayed that way.

Other than that, this a common parallel connection and those cables are the same length too.

But perhaps I'm not understanding what you mean?
They shouldn’t be daisy chained. Each battery should have equal Length positive and negative cables going to a common connection point like a buss bar. Then a primary cable from the buss bars to the loads/charging source. This eliminates the possibility of the first battery in the chain being over worked while the other is along for the ride.
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Old 03-27-2024, 07:32 AM   #6
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I think for 2 batteries in parallel, the diagonal connection works fine. More than 2 and the buss is the better way.

You don't need equal length positive and negative wires in your connection scheme. The equal length is a buss bar funtion.
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Old 03-27-2024, 07:41 AM   #7
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They shouldn’t be daisy chained. Each battery should have equal Length positive and negative cables going to a common connection point like a buss bar. Then a primary cable from the buss bars to the loads/charging source. This eliminates the possibility of the first battery in the chain being over worked while the other is along for the ride.
But thats why you connect the main (+) line to one end of the battery bank and the (-) to the other.

Epoch batteries have an app, recording cell balance conditions. It'll be easy enough to keep an eye on.
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Old 03-27-2024, 08:38 AM   #8
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I think for 2 batteries in parallel, the diagonal connection works fine. More than 2 and the buss is the better way.

You don't need equal length positive and negative wires in your connection scheme. The equal length is a buss bar funtion.
I continue to express best practices. But you can obviously do what you want

Good luck
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Old 03-27-2024, 08:56 AM   #9
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This paper is from Victron re battery connections.

Using buss bars, appears to be their first choice and while doing it the way I have is acceptable, they do note that "There may still be slight differences in the individual battery currents."

https://www.victronenergy.com/media/...3-19ec03dc8956
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Old 03-27-2024, 08:58 AM   #10
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Sorry, I seem to be having trouble posting a link.
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Old 03-27-2024, 09:38 AM   #11
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Sorry, I seem to be having trouble posting a link.
I had mine set up as criss cross applesauce. I can draw 327A with the Victron MPII 3000. That convinced me to go with a 2-1 main switch to buss the positives together. The negatives are bussed on the Victron shunt. No clue if it's better this way, but it was an easy fix.
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Old 03-27-2024, 09:40 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by DJ252 View Post
This paper is from Victron re battery connections.

Using buss bars, appears to be their first choice and while doing it the way I have is acceptable, they do note that "There may still be slight differences in the individual battery currents."

[URL=//https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/The_Wiring_Unlimited_book/en/battery-bank-wiring.html[/URL]
The two forward slashes right after URL= are your issue. (the two forward slashes after https: are fine)

Here it is correctly. (mouse hover over the words Battery Bank Wiring to see the corrected URL via your browser)

Battery Bank Wiring
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Old 03-27-2024, 09:45 AM   #13
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Thanks. Link works now.
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Old 03-27-2024, 04:09 PM   #14
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Just confirmed that if fully charged, this system will run the air conditioner for several hours, at least.

Also confirmed that my F150 Powerboost, will power the whole thing. It did before too but just wanted to confirm that there was no conflict with the new gear.
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Old 03-30-2024, 11:52 AM   #15
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Ran the new system through some paces yesterday.

Unplugged and with the solar off, ran the air conditioner for >5 hrs. and used the central vac. That took the new batts down from 95% to 57%.

Ran the fridge overnight (without precooling it). That took the batts down to 46%.

Side benefit of being able to move the batts inside, is that frees up the space used by the original LA battery.

Installed a trailer tongue tool box, to house the sewer hoses and fittings, black tank flush hose, gloves and hand cleaner, with room to spare, for the wheel chocks and jack block, for while underway.
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Old 03-31-2024, 06:40 AM   #16
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Ran the new system through some paces yesterday.

Unplugged and with the solar off, ran the air conditioner for >5 hrs. and used the central vac. That took the new batts down from 95% to 57%.

Ran the fridge overnight (without precooling it). That took the batts down to 46%.

Side benefit of being able to move the batts inside, is that frees up the space used by the original LA battery.

Installed a trailer tongue tool box, to house the sewer hoses and fittings, black tank flush hose, gloves and hand cleaner, with room to spare, for the wheel chocks and jack block, for while underway.
Totally off OP subject but this reminded me. Am I the only one that uses their back bumper for sewer hose storage. I’ve read all kinds of people putting them everywhere else but there.
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Old 03-31-2024, 06:41 AM   #17
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I had mine set up as criss cross applesauce. I can draw 327A with the Victron MPII 3000. That convinced me to go with a 2-1 main switch to buss the positives together. The negatives are bussed on the Victron shunt. No clue if it's better this way, but it was an easy fix.
I think that set up looks pretty good
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Old 03-31-2024, 08:26 AM   #18
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Totally off OP subject but this reminded me. Am I the only one that uses their back bumper for sewer hose storage. I’ve read all kinds of people putting them everywhere else but there.
I keep the cheapo hose that came in the owner's kit there, as an emergency but hoses with robust fittings and the elbow, will not fit there.

Didn't want them in the trailer and didn't much want them in the bed of the truck either.

The space was now available, perfect for something light.
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Old 03-31-2024, 09:30 AM   #19
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Totally off OP subject but this reminded me. Am I the only one that uses their back bumper for sewer hose storage. I’ve read all kinds of people putting them everywhere else but there.
I did on my pop up until I saw how much rust was developing inside the bumper. Now I use the plastic gutter slideout under the trailer frame. Works a treat and no rust.
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Old 04-02-2024, 10:01 AM   #20
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Installed a trailer tongue tool box, to house the sewer hoses and fittings, black tank flush hose, gloves and hand cleaner, with room to spare, for the wheel chocks and jack block, for while underway.
Would you have a link for that box? Need to do the same for my now empty FLA battery rack.
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