Juice Pack Upgrade

[Vernerjoe28]

Originally Posted by PFeezzy

I would advise you to not add a 100 watt panel to the 50 watt as they don’t share the same amps. You will not get a 150 watts. While the voltage will be similar, the 100 watt panel will put out more Amps. Because the 50 watt puts out less amps, you’ll only see the amperage of the 50 watt panel. It would be similar to adding a another 50 watt panel, so you’d just be wasting your money.

[tomkatb]

You need to know the math to answer the cpap question.

A 100 watt panel will average on its best day charging your battery 25 ah.

Generally these work better out west. In Ohio it is cloudy or dark a lot. Then too, those trees in the parks need removal.

Your cpap machines should run on 12 volts! They use a lot less energy. Inverters are not a great solution!

Get the data from the cpap for consumption. Like .5 amps. Or 55 watts. Keep in mind this ac amps per hour. To convert to dc multiply by 10. Or 5 dc amps per hour. Per unit. Or 10 dc amps per hour times 8 or likely 80 ah dc. That plus parasitic loads and normal usage is over 100 ah dc per day. Assumes you have a gas electric fridge. If you have an electric fridge then you need likely over 125 ah dc. That is three wet cell batteries per day.

My first step would be a big lithium battery. Amazon has a 400 ah dc one for under $2000. Add a battery monitor plus new converter.

Then buy a generator.

Solar is interesting. The math is not so great.

Living in Ohio we use 4 gc2 batteries on our fiver. Our Honda 2200 is used for recharging batteries. Every other day unless the furnace is running. I have a dc cpap machine. We would need 800 watts of solar to make a big difference. In Ohio it would work 50% of the time. Gas electric fridge.

[Mojaveoverland]

Originally Posted by kevinB24

I am a solar noob, so my questions are: did you use the existing panel with the 4 100w panels? Was the thing on the roof where the solar wires go into what you spliced into? Did you splice them together inside that unit? As for renogy controller is that the thing in the unit that displays your solar, or the thing by the battery? Did you use the existing wire for the controller? Do you have any pics of your set up?

Sorry for so many questions. Trying to under solar set ups and all the lingo, and how they work etc...

Here’s a delayed answer, but hope it helps. I left the juice pack 50w factory panel on the roof but didn’t wire it up since it is different amps than the 100w panels I used.

Yes, once you pull up the roof gland where the wires go into the roof, you’ll find an easy place to splice in the new wires and then reseal the gland with dicor.

A year in and the setup has worked flawlessly using the existing wiring from the juice pack system. We’ve had power for days running the fridge, lights, Starlink, etc etc. Even in full shade and rainy/cloudy conditions, the batteries will charge up to 100% within a couple hours of sunrise. Only use for the generator now is to run AC. Highly recommend the 400w setup wired in series with 40a mppt controller.

[Dodgeman8604]

So I just bought a 21 Cherokee Alpha wolf and it has the juice pack. I want to take the 50watt panel off and install 2-200 watt renogy panels and connect them to the existing wiring and controller. Can that be done? I’m new to all of this.

[Ballistic]

The wiring will be ok to connect to. What charge controller do you have? I would assume you have the Waaree 20A model. If this is the case, then it would be maxed if not over current. In my opinion it should be replaced with a minimum of a 30A MPPT model.

[Dodgeman8604]

Originally Posted by Ballistic

The wiring will be ok to connect to. What charge controller do you have? I would assume you have the Waaree 20A model. If this is the case, then it would be maxed if not over current. In my opinion it should be replaced with a minimum of a 30A MPPT model.

I was told it was a 30 amp but after looking closer, it is a 20 amp. So I can get a new charge controller. That’s no problem. My next question is do I run them in series or parallel? Also do I install mc4 connectors onto the existing wires on the roof to connect the new panels or is there another way I need to wire them?

[Ballistic]

If you get an MPPT controller, then it will accept either parallel or series. In your specific situation either will work fine, however there are a few points to consider. Parallel configuration performs better when the panels are partially shaded, while series configurations don't like partial shade at all. This is something you will have to choose. I'm not going to consider the wire gauge differences as you only have 400w.

The should be a roof gland with MC4 connectors integrated into it that the existing panel connects to, so you should be covered. If not, then you will need to install one.

[Dodgeman8604]

Originally Posted by Ballistic

If you get an MPPT controller, then it will accept either parallel or series. In your specific situation either will work fine, however there are a few points to consider. Parallel configuration performs better when the panels are partially shaded, while series configurations don't like partial shade at all. This is something you will have to choose. I'm not going to consider the wire gauge differences as you only have 400w.

The should be a roof gland with MC4 connectors integrated into it that the existing panel connects to, so you should be covered. If not, then you will need to install one.

Awesome. Thank you

[Duner733]

I don't want to make any big changes to my juice pack.
Can I buy one, larger amp solar panel without having to change the wires, controller or fuses?
Or is there a decent suitcase I can guy to add as needed?
I just need a bit more than I am getting.
Not a boondocker but it comes in handy at times.

[kidlowell]

Originally Posted by Duner733

I don't want to make any big changes to my juice pack.
Can I buy one, larger amp solar panel without having to change the wires, controller or fuses?
Or is there a decent suitcase I can guy to add as needed?
I just need a bit more than I am getting.
Not a boondocker but it comes in handy at times.

Based on mine, the wiring is 10 gauge and is fine up to 30 amps. You could probably go up to a 400W array, but please double check. Fuses should be fine. As others have mentioned, the controller is probably too small and would need to be replaced. I replaced mine with a Renogy 30 amp Wanderer, about 30 bucks. The biggest problem was getting enough wire length out of the wall to connect. I also added a shut off switch, but that’s another discussion.

[Duner733]

I was just told I could simply drop a lithium battery in. Of course, change the controller setup. I realize only 50amp charge is not much but based on my usage over the weekend and the amount of time(little) I spend boondocking I may be able to get away with just a lithium battery.
I will check the usage of the fridge to help determine which battery to choose.
Now accepting suggestions for lithium batteries lol

[unyalli]

https://www.amperetime.com/products/...ifepo4-battery

[Duner733]

Thx Jeff. I may look into this. Any general idea how much you can run off this?
I know there are charts and such.