LiFePO4 converter/charger (C/C)

[corn18]

Just ordered a single 206aH LiFePO4 battery. I have a WFCO 8955 C/C chassis mount that is not Li capable. Might add solar later, but not sure when.

Based on threads I have read on here, I think I want a Progressive Dynamics C/C. But when I go to their website, the lithium C/C's are lithium only. I don't think I want to lose the capability to do FLA batteries.

So, do I just get the PD C/C and have lithium only charge capability or go with the WFCO 9855LIS that has FLA and Li capability?

[01tundra]

You don't want to mix battery chemistries, so why would you need both at the same time?

Keep the factory converter to reinstall in case you decide to sell your rig.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by 01tundra

You don't want to mix battery chemistries, so why would you need both at the same time?



Keep the factory converter to reinstall in case you decide to sell your rig.

Plus 100.

Once you realize how smart you were to "go lithium" you'll never want to touch another FLA battery. Except for a starting battery.

Like 01tundra said, keep the old converter and if you sell just put it back in. If you kept the old batteries on a maintainer and filled with water, put them back in too. Most who purchase previously owned RV's end up buying new batteries soon.

[corn18]

I like that plan. The current WFCO is about 12 ft from the batteries. Since I am ordering a chassis mount anyway, I was thinking of putting the Li C/C up in the front storage compartment where the batteries are. I can easily run a 110V romex line up to where the current C/C plugs in. Just unplug the WFCO and leave it where it is. How's that sound?

[corn18]

I took a look at my wiring with the current converter. It is plugged into a 20A receptacle on the back of my power panel per the power panel wiring diagram. But the breaker on the front for the converter is only 15A. Can I replace that 15A breaker for the converter with a 20A breaker? Not sure I need a 20A breaker, but it would allow me to look at 100A converter/chargers.

Also, it looks like I can just mount the new Li C/C up with the batteries and I'm done. Just unplug the current converter from 110V and the short 12V line running to the power panel. The current line running from the batteries to the power panel will carry the converter 12V to the panel when hooked to shore power.

[01tundra]

Originally Posted by corn18

I like that plan. The current WFCO is about 12 ft from the batteries. Since I am ordering a chassis mount anyway, I was thinking of putting the Li C/C up in the front storage compartment where the batteries are. I can easily run a 110V romex line up to where the current C/C plugs in. Just unplug the WFCO and leave it where it is. How's that sound?

That works.

I installed a Progressive 9160ALV 2-stage Li deck mount behind our power center.

You can simply remove the factory converter input wires from the breaker and use it for the new wiring. Or install a new larger breaker if required. I've found that GE breakers fit a little tighter than others in our panel.

Plan on setting a receptacle for the new PD converter, if you cut the plug off it voids the warranty.

Here's how I worked around that detail -

[corn18]

Originally Posted by 01tundra

That works.

I installed a Progressive 9160ALV 2-stage Li deck mount behind our power center.

You can simply remove the factory converter input wires from the breaker and use it for the new wiring. Or install a new larger breaker if required. I've found that GE breakers fit a little tighter than others in our panel.

Plan on setting a receptacle for the new PD converter, if you cut the plug off it voids the warranty.

Here's how I worked around that detail -

There's an actual 110V 20A female plug on the back of the power panel that my current converter is plugged into, so even if I get the 80A PD C/C that requires the 20A plug, I won't have to cut the PD plug. I think I will stick with the 60A PD C/C because of the two stage power, though.

[Rich570]

I have a 2019 Forest River Sandpiper sierra 5th wheel and my main control panel went dead

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by corn18

I like that plan. The current WFCO is about 12 ft from the batteries. Since I am ordering a chassis mount anyway, I was thinking of putting the Li C/C up in the front storage compartment where the batteries are. I can easily run a 110V romex line up to where the current C/C plugs in. Just unplug the WFCO and leave it where it is. How's that sound?

I thought I could "easily" run 120v power to the front compartment where my batteries, switches, and solar controller is mounted.

The "easily" part, at least in my case, wasn't exactly easy. Rather than run romex I ran some "Liquid Tite" Non Metallic conduit down into the belly area and then up into the forward compartment. I used existing wiring holes (thanks to the factory installer making nice large holes). That part was relatively easy but since there were at least two 90 degree "sweeps" and three smaller radius 90's both running the fish tale and three #12 awg wires was a bit of a struggle.

My PD9060 ALV converter now sits on a fabricated bracket above my two Battleborn batteries, hanging from the drawer frame at the top of the compartment. Wire connecting the converter to the 12 volt power bus bars is about 12" of #4 awg welding cable. Bus bars are connected to the batteires with approximately 2 feet of 2/0 awg welding cable. Voltage drop in the new setup isn't enough to even bother calculating.

Mounting a deck mount converter as close to the batteries is in my book the only way to go. Multi-Stage chargers for Lead Acid batteries will function as designed without voltage drop in long wires interfering. LiFePo4 batteries will charge in the absolute minimum amount of time possible, limited only to the size of the converter/charger.

When finished and power turned on my Battery Monitor showed almost 58 amp flowing into my two Battleborn 100 ah batteries from my 60 amp Converter. The remaining 2 amps were being consumed by lights, and the usual 12 volt parasitic draws.

Batteries went from 82% SOC to 100% SOC in just over 30 minutes. For Lead Acid it would have taken more like 2 hours +