Looking for wiring diagram for a 2021 2511S

[CuriousGuy]

Hello,


I am looking for a wiring diagram to figure out why my refridgerator, docking lights ( and who knows what else ) is not getting DC power. Checking the fuses is my current method I am using to hopefully fix this issue. Unfortunately the power distribution box does not have a LED to indicate a blown fuse.

Just the "nerd engineer" who prefers to have a schematic/"wiring diagram" to figure out where to start to fix something.

[firephighter]

That engineer needs a multi meter, oh wait. Give him schematics, that's better. Sorry, just hazing you a bit. I hope you find your problem soon. A meter would really help though.


Wiring diagrams are often difficult to find for a particular camper.

[CuriousGuy]

Yes I do have a multi-meter, several of them in fact. Having a "wiring diagram"/schematic would really be helpful knowing what I am meassuring. You can get into alot of trouble if you put your tool any where it fits.

[bikendan]

Moved thread from the General Tech and Repair section to the Rockwood sub-forum since the OP is asking for model-specific information.

Unfortunately wiring diagrams for Towables are virtually non-existent. You can try contacting Rockwood but u doubt that they have them.
Sent from my SM-G781U using Forest River Forums mobile app

[CuriousGuy]

Hello,


Pulled out everyone of the DC fuses and I was not able to see any broken links. However I will return shortly with a multimeter to verify that the fuses are still good. So far none of the labeling indicates that one of the DC fuses is for the refridgerator, docking lights, etc.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by CuriousGuy

Hello,

Pulled out everyone of the DC fuses and I was not able to see any broken links. However I will return shortly with a multimeter to verify that the fuses are still good. So far none of the labeling indicates that one of the DC fuses is for the refridgerator, docking lights, etc.

You realize, don't you, that not everything that utilizes 12 Vdc runs through the fuse panel. There are a lot of things that are wired directly to the battery positive terminal. Many of them have inline fuses near the battery post (best practice). But there are some fuses that are located near the loads. Often the case for vent fans, for example. Our 2008 Cherokee has one for the propane detector, found by pulling the bottom kitchen drawer out and looking in the gap beneath it. Lots of reports for inline fuses on awnings, electric jacks, and electric steps.

Not sure what you mean by "docking lights", but if you are referring to marker lights or clearance lights, those are powered from the tow vehicle and have no connection to the trailer power system.

(There is no "d" in refrigerator.)

[doanshop]

They don't exist

The best you can do is get one of these to trace wires down


https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instru...28&sr=8-8&th=1

[Aussieguy]

you do know you can check the fuses without pulling them out?
look very carefully at the top of your fuses...
it should have a itty bitty teeny weeny, contact point above each leg of the fuse

you can put one probe of the multi meter on a negative screw then touch the contact point on the fuse with the other probe to read the volts
MOVE PROBE to the other contact point and compare volts reading..

OR turn multi meter to read OHMS ... one probe on each contact point

no pulling .... but can be a &itch if your hands got the shakes from the night before

[CuriousGuy]

Hello,



Thanks for getting beck to me, I assumed (you know what assume stands for) that everything should go thru the fuse panel. So I will have to start looking for in-line fuses. The "docking lights" on a Rockwood 2511S are on the front of the camper and are powered by the campers batterules. My wife and I would use the docking lights as a way to verifybtgat the battery is disconnected from the camera when we leave it at the storage area.

So it looks like I will have to start tracing wires in the camper look for inlins fuses in the wire bundles.
How does the factory produce the campers in large quantities if there are no camper schematics?

[JimM2109S]

Adding to Larry's post above - check both the battery positive terminal and the battery disconnect switch for additional loads that are not fused thru the DC distribution panel.

[rsdata]

could it be that you have a bad/discharged battery? Without a meter how do you know you have any juice in that battery at all, considering many things are not working... AND you should not be plugged into shore power while checking...

[Chuck_S]

AND you should not be plugged into shore power while checking...

nor the tow vehicle 'cuz some send 12vDC to the trailer all the time they're connected to each other.

Do these items get power on shorepower or when connected to your running tow vehicle? If so the power panel is fine. Battery voltage should be receiving 13.8 volts or so on shorepower (or truck) if connected properly. I just experienced a broken battery switch so don't ignore that.

-- Chuck

[01tundra]

There's two resettable breakers attached to the frame up front above an inspection hatch in the belly cover, near the front slide side stabilizer.

One is a 40A that serves the trailer and the other is a 30A fed from the 40A that serves the slide. They are next to the metal junction box where your 7-way plug terminates. There's a tiny black reset button on the side of the relays.

I'd check them.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by CuriousGuy

Hello,



Thanks for getting beck to me, I assumed (you know what assume stands for) that everything should go thru the fuse panel. So I will have to start looking for in-line fuses. The "docking lights" on a Rockwood 2511S are on the front of the camper and are powered by the campers batterules. My wife and I would use the docking lights as a way to verifybtgat the battery is disconnected from the camera when we leave it at the storage area.

So it looks like I will have to start tracing wires in the camper look for inlins fuses in the wire bundles.
How does the factory produce the campers in large quantities if there are no camper schematics?

"My wife and I would use the docking lights as a way to verifybtgat the battery is disconnected from the camera when we leave it at the storage area."

I'm going to assume this sentence was to say... "My wife and I would use the docking lights as a way to verify that the battery is disconnected from the camper when we leave it at the storage area."

If so... you do realize there are other parasitic loads that DO NOT disconnect from the battery using the disconnect switch? Things like the CO detector or radio memory.

On many units if you only disconnect the battery disconnect switch, you will return to storage and find a dead battery. The only way to completely disconnect those loads is to remove ALL the wires/leads from either the negative post or the positive post of the battery... or wire your disconnect switch to do the same.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Aussieguy

you do know you can check the fuses without pulling them out?
look very carefully at the top of your fuses...
it should have a itty bitty teeny weeny, contact point above each leg of the fuse

you can put one probe of the multi meter on a negative screw then touch the contact point on the fuse with the other probe to read the volts
MOVE PROBE to the other contact point and compare volts reading..

OR turn multi meter to read OHMS ... one probe on each contact point

no pulling .... but can be a &itch if your hands got the shakes from the night before

Not this! turn multi meter to read OHMS ... one probe on each contact point

If the fuse is blown and there's a load turned on, there will be 12 Vdc across the open fuse. If you put the multimeter across the fuse in this condition, you will damage the multimeter.

As you stated, one way to test the fuse in situ is to measure voltage from each contact to ground.

The other way (you almost got it right) is to leave the meter on a DC voltage range and put one probe on each blade of the fuse and make sure there's a load on the circuit. This will show 12 volts on a blown fuse and near-zero volts on a good one (as long as there are no breaks in the wiring--same as no load).

[BRinSCupstate]

Originally Posted by 01tundra

There's two resettable breakers attached to the frame up front above an inspection hatch in the belly cover, near the front slide side stabilizer.

One is a 40A that serves the trailer and the other is a 30A fed from the 40A that serves the slide. They are next to the metal junction box where your 7-way plug terminates. There's a tiny black reset button on the side of the relays.

I'd check them.

Thank you for posting this photo! I discovered our new to us camper had the 40A breaker jumped out, hanging loose as just a terminal, with another 40A mounted to the frame, not connected at all. Apparently, one of the previous owners had a tripping problem, tried to replace the breaker, and then just put both wires under the same terminal. I reconnected and bolted original breaker back in place. We'll see how that goes.

[CuriousGuy]

Hello,



got everything working, with help from the people on the thread.I decided to follow the hot lead from the battery box to the entry point of the camper. I found the reset-able circuit breaker underneath the camper, close to entry point, it was surrounded by several wires. I reset the breaker and everything works. Thank you to everyone that has replied to this thread. Thanks for the pictures of the breakers on your campers.