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Old 07-04-2020, 11:21 AM   #1
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Low voltage problem-please help me!

My knowledge is very limited but I can use a volt meter if told where to place it.
My battle born batteries have 13.4 Volts when fully charged and no shore power. But inside our 2016 Sunseeker 2290S voltage is low as the Carbon monoxide alarm is chirping about every 3 seconds and lights flashing red/green. I have tried to take voltage readings inside the Battery Control center located beside the stairwell but really have no idea where to put them! I get about 1 volt when contacting converter breaker, nothing at Isolator Relay, and haven't messed with Isolation manager. Can someone explain how to test each part in the control center? I can reset the converter breaker by starting the RV and holding the reset button and then normal voltage returns to system. But then when I use the water pump, or try and start generator, or just wait a few hour, the system trips again and CO alarm resumes chirping.
Many thanks in advance!!

My battery control center #00-100330300D
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Old 07-04-2020, 11:25 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Gidler View Post
My knowledge is very limited but I can use a volt meter if told where to place it.
My battle born batteries have 13.4 Volts when fully charged and no shore power. But inside our 2016 Sunseeker 2290S voltage is low as the Carbon monoxide alarm is chirping about every 3 seconds and lights flashing red/green. I have tried to take voltage readings inside the Battery Control center located beside the stairwell but really have no idea where to put them! I get about 1 volt when contacting converter breaker, nothing at Isolator Relay, and haven't messed with Isolation manager. Can someone explain how to test each part in the control center? I can reset the converter breaker by starting the RV and holding the reset button and then normal voltage returns to system. But then when I use the water pump, or try and start generator, or just wait a few hour, the system trips again and CO alarm resumes chirping.
Many thanks in advance!!

My battery control center #00-100330300D
How old is your CO detector? They age out around 5 years.
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Old 07-04-2020, 11:34 AM   #3
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original CO detector but problems started before CO started chirping. I can't start generator without tripping house batteries.
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Old 07-04-2020, 11:37 AM   #4
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Whatever your other problems, I’d say it’s time for a new CO detector. I’ll leave the other problems to more knowledgeable folks.
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Old 07-04-2020, 12:48 PM   #5
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I have a 5er and had same problem. Check converter. Mine would work but when it heated up the fan would not come on on the back of it and it would kick out on over heat thus stopping charging of battery. Changed converter and so far so good....
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Old 07-04-2020, 12:58 PM   #6
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The first thing I would do is to take the CO detector off the wall and see that you do have low voltage between the 2 wires powering it up. If it is still at or above 12,5V, then it is probably past it's expiration date and needs replacing ( I would go with a CO & Propane sensing type.) With the other problems, you need to make sure the negative side of the battery has a solid connection with the chasis as that will be the common or ground reference from which to measure voltage from all the other things you want to check with the multi-meter. Always start trouble shooting from the power source and work your way down the circuitry to the device in question. Make sure the connections on the batteries are clean and tight.
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Old 07-04-2020, 05:56 PM   #7
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Reverse polarity fuses blown?
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Old 07-06-2020, 09:49 AM   #8
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Update

So I checked voltage at CO alarm and other places inside RV-11.5 volts. But when I start engine, after about 2 seconds I hear a loud ‘click’ sound coming from ‘resettable converter breaker’ inside the ‘ battery control center’ by the RV steps. Now voltage returns to 13.2 volts inside RV. However when I stop engine, I again here a less distinct click and voltage again is about 11.5 inside RV. I assume the ‘click’ sound is the breaker resetting? Do these breakers often go bad?
Hoping to take RV to a new local shop I found yesyer day to get some help!
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Old 07-06-2020, 10:27 AM   #9
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So I checked voltage at CO alarm and other places inside RV-11.5 volts. But when I start engine, after about 2 seconds I hear a loud ‘click’ sound coming from ‘resettable converter breaker’ inside the ‘ battery control center’ by the RV steps. Now voltage returns to 13.2 volts inside RV. However when I stop engine, I again here a less distinct click and voltage again is about 11.5 inside RV. I assume the ‘click’ sound is the breaker resetting? Do these breakers often go bad?
Hoping to take RV to a new local shop I found yesyer day to get some help!
I think the click you are hearing is an interconnect relay energizing which ties the coach and chassis batteries together for charging both from the engine alternator. When you shut the engine off the click would be the interconnect relay de-energizing.
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Old 07-06-2020, 10:33 AM   #10
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By "resettable converter breaker" I think you are referring to the coach battery disconnect switch which disconnects the coach batteries for coach storage.
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Old 07-06-2020, 11:49 AM   #11
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My house batteries (lithium Battleborn and VictronConnect inverter/charger ) are not charged while driving. The VictronConnect App confirms this as I drive. Only charges when on shore power or generator.
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Old 07-06-2020, 06:57 PM   #12
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By "resettable converter breaker" I think you are referring to the coach battery disconnect switch which disconnects the coach batteries for coach storage.
Resettable converter breaker is located battery control center which also has the battery isolation manager and battery isolator relay. I tried to attach pictures but not sure I succeeded at that?

As you can see the diagram shows the reset button with an arrow. Im almost positive it is this breaker that is making the "click" noise since it makes the exact same noise when I manually push the reset button to renew house power.
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Old 07-08-2020, 10:23 AM   #13
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I believe you have the same or a very similar BCC to the one in my 2012 Solera. The one time I tripped the resettable converter breaker it did not reset itself - I had to press the button in manually to reset it. I tend to agree with Bubbles - the click you hear on starting the vehicle engine is likely the battery isolator relay, which is right next to the breaker.

If, with the vehicle not running, you measure 13.2 volts at the Battleborn but 11.5 volts at the propane detector, you have a significant voltage drop somewhere.

Edit: Thinking more about this, one thing - and I believe the only thing besides wires and connections - between your Battleborn and your BCC is the shunt for your Victron monitor. If the shunt is blown, defective or improperly hooked up it could cause your symptoms.

With your voltmeter negative lead connected to ground (upper right with white wires on bolt in BCC) you can check the voltage coming into the BCC from both your Battleborn house battery and your chassis battery - probe the two large terminals of the battery isolator relay with your voltmeter positive lead with the vehicle engine off. You should read identical to the reading at the Battleborn on the “Coach Bat” terminal. If you show lower voltage at the BCC than at the battery, battery connection problem - ground or positive - indicated.
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Old 07-08-2020, 12:01 PM   #14
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I see what you're talking about. There is one thing though; there is nothing connected to the other post of the converter breaker and therefore it is not used except for the junction on the one post of the converter breaker.
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Old 07-08-2020, 12:13 PM   #15
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I see what you're talking about. There is one thing though; there is nothing connected to the other post of the converter breaker and therefore it is not used except for the junction on the one post of the converter breaker.
Good point. Related to his changing from a converter to his “Victron Inverter-Charger” maybe?
The areas I suggested measuring and inspecting are all ahead of this connection and still valid, I believe.
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Old 07-10-2020, 02:36 PM   #16
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I believe you have the same or a very similar BCC to the one in my 2012 Solera. The one time I tripped the resettable converter breaker it did not reset itself - I had to press the button in manually to reset it. I tend to agree with Bubbles - the click you hear on starting the vehicle engine is likely the battery isolator relay, which is right next to the breaker.

If, with the vehicle not running, you measure 13.2 volts at the Battleborn but 11.5 volts at the propane detector, you have a significant voltage drop somewhere.

Edit: Thinking more about this, one thing - and I believe the only thing besides wires and connections - between your Battleborn and your BCC is the shunt for your Victron monitor. If the shunt is blown, defective or improperly hooked up it could cause your symptoms.

With your voltmeter negative lead connected to ground (upper right with white wires on bolt in BCC) you can check the voltage coming into the BCC from both your Battleborn house battery and your chassis battery - probe the two large terminals of the battery isolator relay with your voltmeter positive lead with the vehicle engine off. You should read identical to the reading at the Battleborn on the “Coach Bat” terminal. If you show lower voltage at the BCC than at the battery, battery connection problem - ground or positive - indicated.
PC Tech says the new BIM will replace the current battery isolation manager and isolation relay.

I have taken voltage for both chasis and house batteries- chasis 12.5v and house batteries usually 11.5v, but today taken again now saying 12.6v. That's the thing is I can get full momentary house voltage but then it'll go back to 11.5 if I try to start generator or even water pump.
Ive been chatting with tech support at Precision Circuits and he has recommended that I install their lithium specific BIM 225 which is made to properly charge both batteries. I ordered the BIM and will hope.

It would seem to me that if I sometimes get good house battery voltage, then it is more likely not a loose connection.
Thanks much for the comments and ill try your suggestions! I'm learning a lot!
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Old 07-10-2020, 03:30 PM   #17
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I believe the lithium BIM or some similar method of managing the different charging profiles of the chassis (probably AGM) battery and the Battleborn coach batteries while charging via your vehicle alternator is a good idea - I disabled the battery isolation relay and I use a Renogy dc-to-dc converter for alternator charge of my Battleborns. That alternative limits the load on my alternator to the maximum draw of the Renogy dc-to-dc device.

Having said that, I doubt that is your problem. If, as I understand, you measure 11.5 volts at your propane detector and (at the same time) measure 13.2 volts at your Battleborn, there is a voltage drop in the system. If you measure the 11.5 volts at the battery isolation relay “Coach” terminal, the problem is between the battery and there - getting a “full voltage” reading that drops under load is actually a likely indicator of a bad connection. As I noted above, the problem could be on the ground side - which includes the shunt resistor for the Victron monitor and its connections.

If, however, you measure “full coach voltage“ (13.2 volts from what you said) at the relay, but 11.5 volts at the detector (at the same time), the problem is further upstream. I would next check voltage on the input and output of the house disconnect switch. The switch could be failing - however, you said your generator won’t crank; on my 2012 the generator will crank with the house disconnect turned off ... - yours may be wired differently.

A final thought - if the voltage at the Battleborn is dropping to 11.5 volts when a load is applied, you may have tripped a safety cut-off in the Battery Management System internal to the Battleborn. A single Battleborn is limited to 200 amps peak, 100 amps continuous discharge, I believe. The generator starter may exceed these limits. I think you need to supply a charge voltage of over 14.2 volts to the Battleborn to reset the BMS (this is an assumption from what I’ve read - if you suspect this is the case, probably best to call Battleborn and ask).

Good luck!
Jim
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Old 07-11-2020, 10:44 AM   #18
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Question Automotive Electric Repair Near Portland Oregon??

Anyone here can recommend a place near Portland Oregon that might be able to diagnose and repair my electrical problems? I'll of course google it but somewhere with recommendations would be nice!
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