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Old 11-23-2014, 03:57 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
Sorry, it was a response to Still Kickin's post.

Cool beans. I assume it's impossible to know if this battery will support us for a night of furnace use... ?
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Old 11-23-2014, 04:14 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
Cool beans. I assume it's impossible to know if this battery will support us for a night of furnace use... ?
It all depends on the voltage before you go to sleep and how long the furnace runs that night.

The 30,000 BTU furnace pulls 4.5 amps when running at 12 volts. Suburban NT-30SP Furnace 30000 BTU 4.5 Amp Draw Trailer Camper RV

If the battery is at full capacity and ONLY the furnace is running (BS; I know but for example) the DP24 (at 75AH) will last for 75/4.5 (16) hours.

So if the battery is 50% depleted when you go to bed (battery voltage 12.1 or "G" light just goes out on the idiot panel), you will have 37.5 AH remaining. At 4.5 amps continuous, you will get 8 hours of furnace remaining till dead as a doornail.

If the battery is in poor overall health (less than 75AH Capacity - when new out of the box - Available when charged), low temperatures at the battery, actual "ON" time, and state of charge at the beginning of the evening, your actual run time will vary greatly.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-23-2014, 10:54 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
The kid yesterday when I dropped it off said it was reading 12.0volts when he put a voltmeter on it and told me to not have high hopes.
Unfortunately today, he was with a different customer as the kid I got today wasn't extremely helpful- he plugged in a portable machine, it did it's thing and he said it was showing good.

So that's where I'm at.

I did measure the compartment/battery box. Strangely, there's a huge amount of storage space down there, but only a small inset for a battery (12"x7" and maybe 10" tall).
12.0V is about a 20% state of charge... bad and damaging to let any 12V battery get that low. Did you charge it fully overnite and THEN let it rest for at least 24 hours before that measurement was taken???
If so...replace it. If not..DO THAT first then just check your own voltage with a multimeter...DO NOT MEASURE UNLESS THE BATTERY has been off charge and disconnected for 24 hours.
12.6-12.7V ....fine and dandy
12.4-12.5V....lost some capacity and aging.
12.3....or less...time to get a new one.

NOW...note that you have DP dual purpose marine max group24 battery. This is capable off storing around 75-80 amp hours of which you can USE half while out camping and without "shore power". That is NOT much. I would want at least double that to do overnite camping as 35-40 amp hours won't support much electrical use.
Note also that marine max makes a DC24 (deepcycle) which is a true deep cycle. You won't get more amp hours but you will get more cycles before death!
To get more amp hours you need to add another group 24, or replace the existing with a larger pair of 12V or 6V batteries...more if you want to boondock a lot.
Hope this helps a bit and lets you play more movies!
*******
Edit...Herk just beat me to the punch & he has it all right. I just note that while a single group 24 in great shape COULD power your furnace all nite...it would not do that and your lights or TV etc. without getting below the 50% threshold where damage gets done to battery life.
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:42 PM   #44
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Thanks guys. The battery was charged for a good 18 hours or so but it was unplugged right away and tested with their tester magic machine.

I need to have my father-in-law show me how to use my voltmeter. I'll do what you recommend- recharge it and let it sit for a bit before testing it.

Thanks again. If anyone has tips, I'm all ears!
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Old 11-24-2014, 03:51 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
Thanks guys. The battery was charged for a good 18 hours or so but it was unplugged right away and tested with their tester magic machine.

I need to have my father-in-law show me how to use my voltmeter. I'll do what you recommend- recharge it and let it sit for a bit before testing it.

Thanks again. If anyone has tips, I'm all ears!
My pair are 5 years old now and still going strong. There is a downside to taking care of your batteries; that is not getting that pair of awesome deep discharge 155AH gel batteries that have been in my Amazon wish list for 4 years.

Amazon.com: QTY 2 Vmaxtanks Vmaxslr155 AGM Deep Cycle 12v 310ah total at 12V (155ah ea) SLA rechargeable Battery for Use with Pv Solar Panels,Smart chargers wind Turbine and Inverters: Electronics


These are a few pounds lighter:


http://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Vmax.../ref=pd_cp_e_1
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Old 11-24-2014, 07:05 AM   #46
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I use a pair of the cheapest Walmart deep charge sealed batteries of which water level cannot be checked as the covers are glued down. So far no problems, but they're only 2+ yrs old. When they go bad, I will just replace them with the same kind. We don't boondock so we don't worry how long they will last without shore power. Just use them to power the lights, jacks and emergency break away brakes.
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Old 11-24-2014, 07:39 AM   #47
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OldCoot, I generally don't boondock either. Unfortunately I'm trying to get to Florida with as little time off of work as possible which means doing it with just one overnight stop. We'll be stopping very late the first night and I'd hate to be "that guy" arriving around midnight. We'll see...
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Old 11-24-2014, 07:47 AM   #48
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OldCoot, I generally don't boondock either. Unfortunately I'm trying to get to Florida with as little time off of work as possible which means doing it with just one overnight stop. We'll be stopping very late the first night and I'd hate to be "that guy" arriving around midnight. We'll see...
If your batteries are good, they will be charging all time you are towing provided your truck is wired properly, so a 5 or 6 hr stop should not deplete them using just lights and the jacks if you stop in a Walmart, etc. If you're worried, leave the truck running while you run the jacks.
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Old 11-24-2014, 07:50 AM   #49
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If your batteries are good, they will be charging all time you are towing provided your truck is wired properly, so a 5 or 6 hr stop should not deplete them using just lights and the jacks if you stop in a Walmart, etc. If you're worried, leave the truck running while you run the jacks.

Battery (single) is questionable. And it's more overnight furnace use in December that I'm concerned about. We'll see.

Worst case, we do just what you say: run slides and jacks while the truck is running. If the furnace makes it, great. If not, well, we'll just sleep cold.
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Old 11-24-2014, 07:51 AM   #50
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If your batteries are good, they will be charging all time you are towing provided your truck is wired properly, so a 5 or 6 hr stop should not deplete them using just lights and the jacks if you stop in a Walmart, etc. If you're worried, leave the truck running while you run the jacks.

Speaking of charging and wired properly- how do I test that?
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:12 AM   #51
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Here's a you-tube of how to check voltage...same on a big battery as a little one!

As to charging and wired properly...while charging and with the battery connected... do the same test...touch the two leads from the voltmeter to the battery terminals. You should read a MINIMUM of 13.2 volts OR a maxiimum of around 14.5V if you are charging. And the meter should not show a minus (-) sign if you are touching black to negative and red to positive terminals.
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:30 AM   #52
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As a general rule, the 12V aux wiring in most tow vehicles is not sufficient to add a significant charge to the battery while being towed if there is any reasonable 12V draw by the TT . The problem is that the wire gauge in the standard vehicle wiring harness and the length of the wire run results in the voltage at the battery being too low to add a significant charge to the battery. This is especially true if the battery is not fully charged and trying to add a significant amount of charge. If you have the need to have your TV recharge your battery during towing, I recommend replacing the 12V aux wire in your harness with a much larger gauge wire.
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:20 PM   #53
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I think I'm going to just replace the battery. I did some Googling and found that a fairly local battery shop has the Trojan 27TMH in stock for about $145. That's a lot cheaper than what I'm seeing them go for online and the only "shipping" is me running up there (or more likely sending my pretty lady).

From measurements, the battery will fit where my Group 24 was previously. It'll be snug length-wise, but it should just make it (space is 13").

My luck, I'll spring for the battery and we won't end up parking lot-docking it.
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:17 PM   #54
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I bought an analog voltmeter and decided to try it out on the new battery. I'll be honest, I've had to watch a video on how to read this thing (linked below)!

Since I have it on DC250, am I reading this scale correctly that the battery is showing7v? It's new and I haven't put it on a charger yet.

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http://youtu.be/9rGDx92McTY
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:29 PM   #55
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It's new and I haven't put it on a charger yet.
Just to clarify.. this is a new battery.. was it already filled when you bought it, or you just filled it yourself and are testing your meter?

You are reading it fine.
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:37 PM   #56
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Can't really see the selection on your meter. Put it down to a lower scale, on the selector switch it will read easier. Try it on it looks like 10 v dc. and see if it stills reads 7 volts. The link will really do you no good being they are using a simpson meter. Why would you buy a analog instead of digital meter? Just a question? If it is new battery it should read 12.8 or so if not take it back, you don't know how long it sat at the state.
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:50 PM   #57
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Just to clarify.. this is a new battery.. was it already filled when you bought it, or you just filled it yourself and are testing your meter?

You are reading it fine.
I just bought it. I don't know that they did or didn't fill it- do you mean charge it or with water?



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Can't really see the selection on your meter. Put it down to a lower scale, on the selector switch it will read easier. Try it on it looks like 10 v dc. and see if it stills reads 7 volts. The link will really do you no good being they are using a simpson meter. Why would you buy a analog instead of digital meter? Just a question?
Glenn, see if this larger picture of the selector dial helps. I'll try lowering it to 10v DC and see how it changes.

If the link is for a different kind of multimeter, what do I have to do searches against?

As for why analog? Because everyone on the forum said I needed one and I bought what WalMart had without really knowing what I was buying. You'd be amazed at how confusing this stuff is for me - even the "simple" stuff.


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Old 12-06-2014, 05:53 PM   #58
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I'm not criticizing you at all. Just wanted to point out that digital is lot easier to read. If your reading 7 volts, it's a lot easier to see it @ 10v then at 250 DC. I had a simpson, so I understand the video. As far a reading 7 volts brand new I would take it back. All batteries come full charged or they where not maintained during it being kept in stock. The battery could be damaged even being new. It would be the same as if you took your battery out and left it in garage all winter without charging it. I would be leary of it myself. Your manual will probably give you more help then y-tube. Please don't misunderstand my statement. Analog meters are hard to read unless you are use to them. I use to use analog but when they came out with digital I jumped for joy. I'm really more concerned if your battery is reading 7 volts out of the box. I new battery with electrolyte should not drop to 7 volts. Just trying to help you. If I were you and being a great IT person and not a electrician you would be better off with a digital. If you can take it back I would. Look up Amazon they have a digital UNI-T, it will read ac and dc voltage plus it has a clamp to read current. What I mean by that is you open the clamp and put it around your hot wire and it will show the exact amps your pulling it will also allow you to do that on the DC side. It cost I think 65.00. Surly didn't mean any harm or insult....
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Old 12-06-2014, 05:56 PM   #59
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No insult taken. We're all good! I'm ordering a digital one and am going to borrow my father-in-laws. I'll re-test it and see what it says. If it's that low, I know that they have another that I should be able to swap it out for.
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Old 12-06-2014, 06:37 PM   #60
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No insult taken. We're all good! I'm ordering a digital one and am going to borrow my father-in-laws. I'll re-test it and see what it says. If it's that low, I know that they have another that I should be able to swap it out for.
I would order the one from amazon, it is the only multi meter that I have seen that can read dc current in a circuit. You will find that very helpful if you put it around the charge wire to the battery and it will show you how many amps your really putting into it and what your charger is doing. Good luck Doug if you need any help just ask, I'll be glad to do what I can for you.....And when my computer breaks or something you can help me. I think a new battery will last you over night if your conservative. Just think a NEW ADVENTURE.....
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