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Old 10-23-2019, 02:54 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by babock View Post
I am not asking about the batteries...I am talking about the alternator. The isolation manager that BB recommends would at least reduce the duty factor for your alternator. It never allows 100% duty cycle.
I do not worry about my 175 amp alternator. That is more power than a 2,000 watt solar array. (14v x 175a = 2,250 watts) When was the last time you had an alternator fail?

The alternator duty cycle is controlled by a pulse width modulation voltage regulator. Duty cycle is a function of the PWM voltage not the amperage.
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Old 10-23-2019, 04:19 PM   #22
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I am not talking about how the alternator produces the correct voltage. I am talking about putting out 140A for a long period of time.

BTW, alternators fail all the time when they are operated at close to their max output for long periods of time.

If you aren't concerned, neither am I. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by rk06382 View Post
I do not worry about my 175 amp alternator. That is more power than a 2,000 watt solar array. (14v x 175a = 2,250 watts) When was the last time you had an alternator fail?

The alternator duty cycle is controlled by a pulse width modulation voltage regulator. Duty cycle is a function of the PWM voltage not the amperage.
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Old 10-23-2019, 05:50 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by babock View Post
I am not talking about how the alternator produces the correct voltage. I am talking about putting out 140A for a long period of time.

BTW, alternators fail all the time when they are operated at close to their max output for long periods of time.

If you aren't concerned, neither am I. Good luck.
Most of the time the amperage coming from the alternator is below 90 amps. This is well below the 175 amp max.
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Old 01-23-2022, 07:50 PM   #24
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rk0632,thank you for all of your info on your battery install and info on the SDC 107. Great job it really helped me out. Many thanks.
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Old 01-24-2022, 03:40 AM   #25
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rk0632,thank you for all of your info on your battery install and info on the SDC 107. Great job it really helped me out. Many thanks.
I have used the SDC 107 with the voltage adjustment for two seasons without any issues. I have also set my Samlex EVO-3012 Inverter/Charger 'Float voltage' to 13.25v.

I think the alternator over-amperage is limited by the small gauge of the wire from the SDC 107 and the alternator.


Thanks for the feedback. I am glad I was able to help someone.
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Old 04-18-2022, 08:06 AM   #26
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My coach batteries stopped charging from the alternator last month. I had to run the generator to charge my batteries when the sun wasn't shining. I found out I could start the generator at 8% on the Victron.

Finally after checking everything else, I pulled the cover off the SDC-107A to check the internal fuses. This is what I found:


I called to a RV Custom Products technician, today. The black hole is where the transistor that controls the BIRD was. I also learned a few thing about the SDC-107A.
  1. SDC-107A has only a is one year Warranty.
  2. Forest River no longer uses RV Custom Products. I do not know what replaced it. Maybe someone can tell me what BCC Forest River is installing now.
  3. RV Custom Products only sells a replacement COD with UPS.
  4. Cost:
$68.32 UPS ground freight is to Alaska.
$172.27 SDC-107A
$240.59 Total
I need to replace the SDC-107A as it powers the dash & radio.
The cover.
Attachment 215686
My first look at the damage with loose parts.
Attachment 215687
Blown Cap & transistor.
Attachment 215683
Hello RK, I am getting ready to tackle this with my 2017 GT. (Replace the interconnect relay) Originally, I was going to try and do this without removing the control box but after looking at it that might not be the best way to do this. What is your opinion since you replaced the board. Should I disconnect all power to the RV and chassis battery, take a pic of the wiring and disconnect everything going to the SDC-107 and remove it from the bay. Is the wiring behind the circuit board pretty straight forward once I remove the board? Is the screw in the middle of the board and the one in the top right the 2 attach points for the board? Just a little intimidated by the box
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Old 04-18-2022, 08:14 PM   #27
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Hello RK, I am getting ready to tackle this with my 2017 GT. (Replace the interconnect relay) Originally, I was going to try and do this without removing the control box but after looking at it that might not be the best way to do this. What is your opinion since you replaced the board. Should I disconnect all power to the RV and chassis battery, take a pic of the wiring and disconnect everything going to the SDC-107 and remove it from the bay. Is the wiring behind the circuit board pretty straight forward once I remove the board? Is the screw in the middle of the board and the one in the top right the 2 attach points for the board? Just a little intimidated by the box
Yes take pictures. I moved my negative chassis battery wires to a Victron BMV-712 shunt. The positive battery chassis cable goes to 500a switch & a Red bus bar.


The short soldered wires make it hard to repair the SDC-107.

I ordered a new SDC-107 black box from RV Custom Products. They sent it C.O.D. I still have the old SDC-107 in my junk pile.

Did you look at the downloads on the page-link above?
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Old 04-19-2022, 06:25 PM   #28
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Yes take pictures. I moved my negative chassis battery wires to a Victron BMV-712 shunt. The positive battery chassis cable goes to 500a switch & a Red bus bar.


The short soldered wires make it hard to repair the SDC-107.

I ordered a new SDC-107 black box from RV Custom Products. They sent it C.O.D. I still have the old SDC-107 in my junk pile.

Did you look at the downloads on the page-link above?
Update! Got the replacement solenoid and after a couple of hours getting the box out and replacing it I am working again! I think the heat build up in the BCC is too much for the solenoid to handle and I will probably be doing it again someday. I remember when it first acted up it was a brutally hot summer day and the battery bay was really hot - that was when the RV was about 2 years old. RK, thanks a million for posting the detailed process you went through. I don't think I could have or even would have attempted to get this done without your help. Much appreciated!
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Old 04-19-2022, 11:44 PM   #29
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Update! Got the replacement solenoid and after a couple of hours getting the box out and replacing it I am working again! I think the heat build up in the BCC is too much for the solenoid to handle and I will probably be doing it again someday. I remember when it first acted up it was a brutally hot summer day and the battery bay was really hot - that was when the RV was about 2 years old. RK, thanks a million for posting the detailed process you went through. I don't think I could have or even would have attempted to get this done without your help. Much appreciated!
The Catalytic converter is right behind BCC on the inside of the frame.
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