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Old 10-08-2016, 01:38 PM   #21
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How many times i needto tell you guys I'm not charging a bad battery, I dont have batteries yet. And why? Isn't that the point of the converter, to convert shore power into 12 volts
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Old 10-08-2016, 02:09 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by pavetim View Post
How many times i needto tell you guys I'm not charging a bad battery, I dont have batteries yet. And why? Isn't that the point of the converter, to convert shore power into 12 volts

Sorry... your "I'm working on batteries I just moved back from Japan" in post 15 above suggested otherwise and I didn't read the whole thread.

Converters may put out enough current to charge a battery over 6-24 hours when plugged in...but NOT have enough current to drive the big electrics/hydraulics of a campers larger 12V needs alone. So....even if you don't have a battery...you need one.

Now...if you would like to check your CONVERTERS output and workings you can take the 12V battery from your car or truck (starting battery is just fine for the test.) Hook it up...then plug in to AC and put a volt meter on the battery terminals. You should see at LEAST 13.2V... and as much as 14.5 volts. If you do...the converter is working properly. If not...there is your problem...could be a simple fuse or breaker...so go back to the converter output terminals and check voltage there when plugged in. If you don't see more than 13.2 ...check the fuses and also check the AC voltage at the input to make sure the converter is GETTING AC120V...might be an AC circuit breaker. If you DO see more than 13.2V at the converter output but not at the battery..the problem is in the wiring or a fuse/breaker along the wiring. A continuity test on each wire is he first step.
Some campers require BOTH the converter and the battery to be working and you'll know once installing a battery whether your converter is working and if it is necessary because once the battery is in...you can test the jacks/slides.
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A CLAMP AC/DC multimeter can show you how many amps your converter puts out to your installed battery....and how many your Tow Vehicle puts out which is good info to have so if you don't have a basic voltmeter already...suggest you get the AC/DC clamp version at about $50 bucks on Amazon.
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Old 10-08-2016, 02:11 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by pavetim View Post
How many times i needto tell you guys I'm not charging a bad battery, I dont have batteries yet. And why? Isn't that the point of the converter, to convert shore power into 12 volts
Since the slideout is 12v DC, it may need a battery to operate, even with shore power.
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Old 10-08-2016, 03:03 PM   #24
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Ok so if converter is bad which I think it is, if i hook a battery up from my car temporarily willcit bypass the converter? I don't think so cause when i had truck hooked up the jacks acted the same.. Judy planning ahead in case my jacks don't work when i leave. I see a manual port in the pump but not sire how sure to use it or even if its for the jacks
If your lights work inside your trailer then the converter is working. I know you don't have a battery so that is why your slides and jacks won't work. The motor for those require much more current than the converter will supply. Even when you are connected to your TV the TV can not supply the high current needed to drive those motors.

You have 3 options..
1. Go buy a battery $100
2. Don't have $100, then pull the battery from TV and get slides and jacks set.
3. Run the jacks and slides manually. There is a way but I'm not familiar with what unit you have and if they are electric or hydralic.

Folks on here are trying to help you so keep that in mind and stay away from being snippy...
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Old 10-08-2016, 03:05 PM   #25
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Ok that makes sense now. Amd the slides and jacks do work on shore just not correcltlu. I'll get nee batteries once i get converter replaced, don't want to hook new batteries to bad converter. Thanks for all the info, good info
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Old 10-08-2016, 03:26 PM   #26
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Ok that makes sense now. Amd the slides and jacks do work on shore just not correcltlu. I'll get nee batteries once i get converter replaced, don't want to hook new batteries to bad converter. Thanks for all the info, good info
Pavetim, how do you know the converter is bad? You mentioned in an earlier post that nothing was working but then you said you reset a micro-breaker. If you don't have a battery installed and your TV is not connected to your RV and you can turn on lights with the converter on then it is putting out 12 volts.

A bad converter is not going to hurt your battery, it is just not going to charge it. If you connect a good battery (by good, I mean an almost fully charged battery) to your RV you should be able to read the voltage at the terminals to be in the 13 volt range. While measuring the terminal have someone turn off and on the main shore power breaker. You should see the voltage drop slightly when off the rise slightly when on. The difference is these levels will be determined by how well your battery is charged. But the point being you will see that the converter is or is not supplying charging current to your battery.

If $ are short I hate to see you buy a converter if it is not bad.
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Old 10-08-2016, 03:33 PM   #27
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If everything that is 12v works while plugged into shore power, your converter is working. The converter will not put out enough juice to power everything like if you had a battery that was full charged. Just get 1 or 2 batteries, charge them and everything will work as it should.
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Old 10-08-2016, 05:16 PM   #28
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You MUST have a battery,just go get one and put it in.
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Old 10-08-2016, 05:22 PM   #29
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You MUST have a battery,just go get one and put it in.
this has been said a few post,
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