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Old 10-08-2016, 01:41 AM   #1
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Need help asap, no slides

Ok I was overseas for 1.5 years and before i left i was having electrical problems like batteries wouldn't charge and even manual charging batteries the lights didn't work nor the control panel to check tanks. I got back and set up camper and everything seems to work on shore power except slides, leveling system and awning. I had the level working a little in truck power but nothing now. And now I'm stuck cause cannot leave campgrounds until stuff is fixed
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Old 10-08-2016, 02:26 AM   #2
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Oh figures it out, micro breaker popped. Still getting low voltage and clicking on pump motor when I try to level tho
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Old 10-08-2016, 05:16 AM   #3
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If you haven't already done so, replace your battery(s).
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Old 10-08-2016, 09:15 AM   #4
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I don't have batteries yet just running off shore power or hookedcuo with truck running. It even does it with shore power
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Old 10-08-2016, 09:38 AM   #5
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Hello,
The convertor does not have enough current to run slides etc properly. The TV should be plugged in and running to make sure the charge line is working to help.
I would suggest you get batteries ASAP as the low voltage/current will cause issues with the motors and possibly burn them out.
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Old 10-08-2016, 09:39 AM   #6
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I don't have batteries yet just running off shore power or hookedcuo with truck running. It even does it with shore power
becarful not to fry the alternator in your truck if your trying to charge dead batteries in the TT
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Old 10-08-2016, 09:40 AM   #7
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Also you need a battery to be safe on he road. Your breakaway will not work if the trailer becomes detached. In some if not all states/provinces it is against the law.
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Old 10-08-2016, 09:59 AM   #8
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X2 to what B and B and toslow said ...
If your battery has been sitting idle, for 1.5 years, it could likely be "sulfated" or otherwise not able to take a charge / come up to full voltage. There are other possible explanations but same symptom / problem.

The "tech" of it is, there isn't enough current, figuratively enough water pressure coming out of the pipe if you will, to spin those motors under their full load. The motors will try harder but with the low voltage, they will draw more current, which will heat the wire in them more than design spec, and can cause failure (expensive repairs.)

The fact you ate (blew) a fuse (circuit breaker) supports the low voltage theory. This is a protection feature operating as designed.

The service manuals will indicate that the mechanism "may" operate under the lower voltages but also say that there will be increased current and problems as just noted above. In some cases (i.e. trying to use "jumper cables" or just the converter,) there will not be sufficient current.

The 12 volt connection from the truck to the camper has similar issues, voltage drop (length of relatively thin wire) and low current availability (relatively thin wire.) Think of how thick the primary wire is from truck battery to chassis and starter.

You could temporarily swap battery from TV to the Camper, BEING CAREFUL ABOUT POLARITY + / - connections of course, and that could provide enough electricity to get the sliders back in. Again figuratively, this is like using a fatter, shorter hose instead of a long, skinny garden hose, you get more water.

There are also manual methods for getting the slides and awning retracted; our chassis manual does not have info the levelers. Actually found "youtube" videos of some slide and awning procedures.

Best Luck ...
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Old 10-08-2016, 11:34 AM   #9
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As I have said I don't have batteries, I will get them once I settle in here. What's that about the tv? Tv works fine, I noticed too when slides put strain on the motor I wants to kill the power. I am thinking it's the converter as I learn more how it works.
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Old 10-08-2016, 11:46 AM   #10
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As I have said I don't have batteries, I will get them once I settle in here. What's that about the tv? Tv works fine, I noticed too when slides put strain on the motor I wants to kill the power. I am thinking it's the converter as I learn more how it works.
First you need a good battery, second do you have a multi meter? I will attach a trouble shooting guide for a WFCO converter not sure which you have but pretty much the same for a progressive. The size of the wire from the TV is not big enough to carry all the amps you need...Lets see if I can attach them so you will have a look.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf TEST FOR LOAD.pdf (24.1 KB, 39 views)
File Type: pdf WFCO Testing For Loads.pdf (26.9 KB, 57 views)
File Type: pdf WFCO_WF_-_8935,8945,8955_Power_Converter_Manual.pdf (2.53 MB, 66 views)
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:05 PM   #11
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Your camper battery is bad. But if you have or can borrow jumper cables jump to your Tow Vehicle. The heavy cables will give you the amount of power needed. 12 gauge wire from the plug at back of truck restricts amp output.
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:10 PM   #12
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Your camper battery is bad. But if you have or can borrow jumper cables jump to your Tow Vehicle. The heavy cables will give you the amount of power needed. 12 gauge wire from the plug at back of truck restricts amp output.
OP stated 2x that he does NOT have battery.
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:16 PM   #13
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As I have said I don't have batteries, I will get them once I settle in here. What's that about the tv? Tv works fine, I noticed too when slides put strain on the motor I wants to kill the power. I am thinking it's the converter as I learn more how it works.
I'm not sure where you are trying to settle in but I would suggest you jump into your TV and drive to a store and buy a battery or pull the battery from your TV and put it temporarily into your RV...
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:22 PM   #14
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Tv = television
or
TV = Tow Vehicle
Gets confusing sometimes
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:28 PM   #15
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I'm working on batteries I just moved back frim Japan so kind of any expensive move so broke. I am also researching batteries I seen i think usa battery but would have to order. Ill have to ask dealer is there is manual way to get jacks up and down
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:39 PM   #16
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Tv = television
or
TV = Tow Vehicle
Gets confusing sometimes
Lol.. but a Tv does not have a 12v battery...
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:40 PM   #17
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Ok so if converter is bad which I think it is, if i hook a battery up from my car temporarily willcit bypass the converter? I don't think so cause when i had truck hooked up the jacks acted the same.. Judy planning ahead in case my jacks don't work when i leave. I see a manual port in the pump but not sire how sure to use it or even if its for the jacks
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:45 PM   #18
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restate you need batteries. Don't wait until you settle in. You need batteries to make everything work. Most of you 12 volt power things on your RV work strictly off battery. Some may work when plugged into your TV, but, they may blow your 12 Volt fuse. Get a good battery(s) and I think your problems will go away.
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:51 PM   #19
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Ok so if converter is bad which I think it is, if i hook a battery up from my car temporarily willcit bypass the converter? I don't think so cause when i had truck hooked up the jacks acted the same.. Judy planning ahead in case my jacks don't work when i leave. I see a manual port in the pump but not sire how sure to use it or even if its for the jacks
You don't need to turn your converter on. Disconnect from shore power and then converter will not come on. Then put in TV battery and the 12v will still work without the converter on... I understand the short of $$.
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Old 10-08-2016, 01:07 PM   #20
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Look...you need to break out a $100 bill and buy ANY 12V deep cycle battery. You're gonna need one immediately and there is NO better or cheaper solution that won't end up costing your more money. Your existing battery is TOAST. Trying to charge it can only turn other things to toast. Autozone, and AAparts or Napa will all carry deep cycle batteries. A Group27 wll be $90-110 bucks typically. Good luck!
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