Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-31-2024, 01:27 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 5
New 120v Outlets

Hey FR Forums,

I recently purchased a 2021 R-Pod 180 Hood River Edition and there is a very low number of 120v outlets around the kitchen. I've seen other trims/packages that have a few more installed and I'd like to put a few in myself. I know they will only work on shore/inverter power, but want the ability to use electronics while cooking.

It also looks like there are wires already run to the locations I'd like to install the pugs. I just need to know if they are 120 V or something else.
Unfortunately, I can't find a good wiring diagram for my model.

Can any of you please point me into the right direction for a wiring diagram, and/or weigh in if the below cables are likely 120v or not.
I will definitely use a multi-meter to confirm the voltage before installing anything, but don't want to cut into any wires if I don't need to.
I'm also happy to run new wires if needed.

Thanks!


First socket location:
I want to install a socket in the over kitchen cabinet, facing down. Many 180s already have 1 near this location, but on the side of the fridge.
When I look behind the fridge I see red/white wires that LOOK like they could be 120v power for the other models and I was hoping to just tie into these for the socket.
Anyone know if this would work? (yes, I may have to tie them into the fuse box not the other end)
Click image for larger version

Name:	PXL_20240331_173720550.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	316.9 KB
ID:	298241


Second Socket Location:
I also found this very long piece of yellow/black wire inside the shower access panel. Could this also be 120V?
I'd move the socket location away from the shower connections, but it'd be great if I can just tie into this wire.
Click image for larger version

Name:	PXL_20240330_195033036.jpg
Views:	25
Size:	351.9 KB
ID:	298242



Thanks for any help, and suggestions on adding 120v outlets!
Tpodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2024, 01:45 PM   #2
Pickin', Campin', Mason
 
5picker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,191
None of those wires look like 120v AC.
A test with a multimeter would tell but that is typically the type of wiring used for 12v DC accessories.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA

Days Camped '19=118 '20=116 '21=123 '22=134 '23=118 '24=90
5picker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2024, 01:49 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2023
Posts: 444
I don't know your brand or model but I just did an extensive electrical upgrade to our 2024 Surveyor, from front to back and as far as I could tell, all 120V wires were solid core wire, with single color sheaths, as you'd find in a house.

If it is flexible, then stranded wire and probably 12V.
__________________
2024 Surveyor 252RBLE
2023 F150 Powerboost 7.2KW 4x4 1658PL with a WeighSafe WDH
DJ252 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2024, 02:20 PM   #4
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 5
Thanks for the help!

Looks like i'll have to run my own wires! Luckily there is already wiring under the sink I can tap into.

Maybe that red/white in the fridge is for a 3-way connection (mines only 2-way). So at least I'll have some pre-wired cables! ;-)
Tpodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2024, 02:39 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,728
Yes, look for NM (Non-Metallic) cable, commonly called after a prominent brand, Romex. It will have AWG 12 or AWG 14 solid (not stranded) conductors.

You do realize that the present outlets are not like the residential/commercial outlets like you may be used to, right? They are Self-Contained Devices (SCDs) designed to attach to the NM cable with a punchdown tool, and to be mounted directly in the wall with no junction box. They can accept one or two cables; that is, they may be used in the middle or end of a run.

By the way, your outside walls are probably not thick enough for most standard junction boxes. You have two options:
  1. Use SCD outlets. The professional punchdown tool costs a few hundred dollars and crimps all the conductors at once. The $40 one from Amazon or eBay can be used, but you have to push each conductor down separately. Some people use two 1x3 scraps and a pair of clamps to press the back cover on.
  2. Use this tiny 1-1/8" deep P&S box or this tiny 1'1/4" deep Carlon box with a conventional screw-terminal outlet. Note that this must be used at the end of a run. There is simply not enough room for two sets of wires with these boxes. (The Carlon B117RSWR box DOES have enough room for two cables, if you can find one.)
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
Larry-NC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2024, 03:35 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
DogFather's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: MT & CA
Posts: 274
A little off subject, but a handy tool to have is a non-contact voltage tester (sometimes called a Wiggy). It will sense if a line or receptacle is live with AC voltage without contact with the wire. They're priced starting around $10.
__________________
John, KA6CHX
2018 FR Berkshire 39A
DogFather is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2024, 03:59 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
SailorSam20500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 5,067
I also added an outlet in my RV. I had an open slot in my power center. So I added a new breaker and ran the wire to where I wanted it. Helps prevent overloading the existing 15 amp circuit. Because the "wall" is so thin, I cut the hole for the box and glued lengths of wood paint stirrers above and below the opening on the back side for added strength.
__________________
Al
I am starting to think, that I will never be old enough--------to know better.
Tolerance will reach such a level that intelligent people will be banned from thinking so as not to offend the imbeciles. Fyodor Mikhailovich Dostoevsky, Russian Novelist
S.E. Mich. Flagstaff 26FKWS / 2022 F-150 3.5 EcoBoost SCrew Propride
SailorSam20500 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2024, 05:51 PM   #8
D W
Senior Member
 
D W's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: ALASKA (World's Biggest Campground)
Posts: 6,862
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
None of those wires look like 120v AC.
A test with a multimeter would tell but that is typically the type of wiring used for 12v DC accessories.
X2. Those wire are not 120 VAC. Most likely 12V which may suffice for your 12V accessories. You'll have to check them for voltage.
__________________
'07 K3500 Silverado LT Crew Duramax (LBZ)
2016 Salem 27RKSS
1984 CHEV SCOTTSDALE K20 2GCGK24J0E1XXXXXX (Chevrolet Legends-Class of 2019)
"...exhaust fluid? We don't need no stinkin' exhaust fluid"
D W is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2024, 07:55 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Tarpon Springs FL
Posts: 3,650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post



You have two options:
  1. Use SCD outlets. The professional punchdown tool costs a few hundred dollars and crimps all the conductors at once. The $40 one from Amazon or eBay can be used, but you have to push each conductor down separately. Some people use two 1x3 scraps and a pair of clamps to press the back cover on.
  2. Use this tiny 1-1/8" deep P&S box or this tiny 1'1/4" deep Carlon box with a conventional screw-terminal outlet. Note that this must be used at the end of a run. There is simply not enough room for two sets of wires with these boxes. (The Carlon B117RSWR box DOES have enough room for two cables, if you can find one.)
3.... choose the location for the new outlets wisely
so you can use a standard 120v boxes and outlet.
you can easily put standard or low profile boxes from hardware store in a cupboard


You could also use surface mount outlet under the upper cupboards
OR
install a popup outlet on the kitchen counter
------------------------------------------------------------------------

adding more outlets = good recipe for popping breakers

be aware of what else is turned on
air conditioner, water heater and converter will eat up a large part of your power sharing allotment

add a coffee maker and electric skillet ................... POP
__________________
Tarpon Springs FL
2022 Salem 24RLXL
Aussieguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2024, 08:00 AM   #10
Pickin', Campin', Mason
 
5picker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,191
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussieguy View Post
3.... choose the location for the new outlets wisely
so you can use a standard 120v boxes and outlet.
you can easily put standard or low profile boxes from hardware store in a cupboard


You could also use surface mount outlet under the upper cupboards
OR
install a popup outlet on the kitchen counter
------------------------------------------------------------------------

adding more outlets = good recipe for popping breakers

be aware of what else is turned on
air conditioner, water heater and converter will eat up a large part of your power sharing allotment

add a coffee maker and electric skillet ................... POP
X2
Not sure the OP ever said the amperage of their shore power but if just 30a, adding outlets for more than just a more convenient place to plug something in can quickly overload the breaker and a 30a supply.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA

Days Camped '19=118 '20=116 '21=123 '22=134 '23=118 '24=90
5picker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2024, 08:26 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 1,182
Quote:
Originally Posted by DogFather View Post
A little off subject, but a handy tool to have is a non-contact voltage tester (sometimes called a Wiggy). It will sense if a line or receptacle is live with AC voltage without contact with the wire. They're priced starting around $10.
Wiggy:
https://electricalconnection.com.au/...l-about-wiggy/

Non Contact Voltage Tester:
https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/bl...etector-basics

Both are good to have. A wiggy will test the circuit with a load. Never realized at least some are DC also. Will have to see if mine is as I only used it on AC circuits.
__________________
2022 Rockwood 2511S
2018 F150 3.5 Crew Cab 4x4
Max Tow Package 1855 Lbs Payload
Husky CenterLine WDH
GolfingDave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2024, 08:44 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2023
Posts: 444
"Will have to see if mine is as I only used it on AC circuits."

Same here. My Ideal Amp Clamp meter has a built in non contact voltage tester but I never thought to try it on DC.
__________________
2024 Surveyor 252RBLE
2023 F150 Powerboost 7.2KW 4x4 1658PL with a WeighSafe WDH
DJ252 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2024, 09:05 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 127
Last summer I added a 120V outlet to our 2022 Surveyor. I placed it at the end of the lower bunk near the slide out. The bathroom 120V outlet is a GFCI outlet and is full size, residential style, not one of the SCD type outlet. I was able to run some 14g Romex under the bathroom sink, through the wall to under the lower bunk and then up to the new outlet. I used a regular single gang box for the outlet.
__________________
2022 Surveyor Legend 19BHLE
2013 F-150 XL Supercab 3.7l V6
IPcamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2024, 11:01 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Hills of Northwestern PA
Posts: 2,386
I cheated and added an extra duplex outlet by the dinette. I used a thin box and an outside 15-20 amp inlet. Has a cover and has prongs like an extension cord. I just run an extra 12AWG cord from the power pedestal. No drag on the TT 30amp breakers. I use it for the toaster or sometimes coffee maker so I can use those while using the A/C, water heater, & microwave. I know, even that’s pushing it but I got to keep my coffee HOT. For long microwave cooking times I still shut off the A/C. Before adding this outlet, I always ran a seperate cord for outdoor use vice using the built in exterior outlet for the electric frying pan. Actually we most often use the toaster outside as it tends to set off the smoke detector ;(
__________________
2019 Cherokee Wolf Pup 16BHS flipped axle, 5K springs, 400AH LiFePO4, 3K inverter, 400 watts CIGS solar
2019 Ford F-150 S-Crew 5.5 bed V8 w/tow package, ITBC, Tow Mirrors, SumoSprings, 1990#CC
Husky Centerline TS WDH 400-600# spring bars
Boomerweps is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2024, 11:04 AM   #15
Site Team
 
bikendan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 34,028
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
X2
Not sure the OP ever said the amperage of their shore power but if just 30a, adding outlets for more than just a more convenient place to plug something in can quickly overload the breaker and a 30a supply.
The OP's trailer is 30 amp.
bikendan is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2024, 10:36 PM   #16
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 5
Hey everyone!

Sorry for missing all the replies. I ended up running my own 120v 10 awg cable and not tapping into those pictured. I'm pretty confident the yellow/black pair are 12v from the solar controller and the red/white are 12v that I'm guessing are for 3-way fridges (mine is only 2-way), but never confirmed.

I actually found an existing 120v outlet tucked behind fridge that supplies power to the microwave (I believe). Not sure how I missed it the first time.
Since the existing connection terminated here, I installed a residential plug/socket where I could run new cable from that socket to a new 20 amp GFI outlet above the sink.

My R-Pod 180 is 30 amp, so I'm pretty confident the 10 gauge cable can handle the load of the new outlet, it's securely attached/mounted in a box, and has the better screw down style residential connection than the original crappy "push/pinch" wire connectors that trailers have.

I've tested the microwave on the existing connection and running a vacuum off the new outlet. It works great! I do think I'd have issues if I put a major load on the new outlet while running the microwave, but it's all attached to a 15 (or 20) amp breaker and the 20 amp GFI outlet will limit excessive loads on the new plug

Let me know if you folks have any questions/concerns and I'd be happy to share pics of anyone is interested in the same thing!
Tpodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:03 PM.