No 12 volt cigarette outlet

[Bob K4TAX]

After reading and reading many posts pertaining to electrical issues, both 12VDC and 120VAC, 30A and 50A services, it has come painfully clear........

(a) If one doesn't know what they are doing, they shouldn't be doing it.

(b) If one THINKS they know what they are doing........they should seek the service of a knowledgeable and experienced person.

RVs, TTs, MHs, all have relatively complex electrical systems. The casual DIYer likely shouldn't be tampering with these systems. My point, if one does not own or know how to use a VOM, then the electrical systems should be taboo and off-limits.

[wabakami]

Originally Posted by Bob K4TAX

After reading and reading many posts pertaining to electrical issues, both 12VDC and 120VAC, 30A and 50A services, it has come painfully clear........

(a) If one doesn't know what they are doing, they shouldn't be doing it.

(b) If one THINKS they know what they are doing........they should seek the service of a knowledgeable and experienced person.

RVs, TTs, MHs, all have relatively complex electrical systems. The casual DIYer likely shouldn't be tampering with these systems. My point, if one does not own or know how to use a VOM, then the electrical systems should be taboo and off-limits.

X2

[wabakami]

Originally Posted by nvs4602

I made my own 12v to ??v it's adjustable so I can change it if I need to. Just buy a 12vdc boost converter.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08246FB...89DETGR6HZ0749

I bought the plastic box for it at Walmart in the hobby section. Here's a link to the one I got so you know what to look for.

https://www.thebeadery.com/shop/2184...04724121093750

The cigarette lighter plug has a 10a fuse built in.

A small problem....

See the black fin thingies.... well they're called heat-sinks, designed to radiate heat into the surrounding air which takes the heat away by convection currents. The heat removal process requires free air flow which you cannot get in a small closed container.

Component failure at the minimum, possible fire before the fuse fails at worst.

Minimum to fix this would be to move the heat-sinks to the outside of the case, then hardwire to voltage regulators direct to the PCB.

These cheap regulators waste a pile of energy to heat.


Take-away; Buy a good quality variable regulator designed for auto/harsh environs and sleep at night with the insurance the RV won't burn down around you.
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[wabakami]

Originally Posted by Midwest Ed

One could always add an inline fuse holder and fuse properly rated for the existing wire gauge or whatever is the "weakest link" (i.e. wire gauge or inverter rating).

Ed, you're quite correct.

The only issue is the second time they blow the fuse someone will assuredly put a larger fuse in it's place. Human nature. That's why we no longer has fuse panels in newer homes.
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