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06-08-2013, 09:33 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 80
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No 12V
Okay. I just picked up my Rockwood 2703ws the day before yesterday. Got it home some 250 miles and all went well. Plugged in the power cord to the house. Everything works good. This morning, went out to put two slides in and...No 12V system. When I check the battery charge on the panel, it will show up for a brief second and then nothing. The electric tongue jack works fine but nothing else. When the 110 is hooked up, the batteries check fully charged. All the fuses I can see are good. I'm wondering if the converter is not switching over and need to know how to check it out.
Help would be appreciated.
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06-08-2013, 09:37 AM
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#2
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyoman
Okay. I just picked up my Rockwood 2703ws the day before yesterday. Got it home some 250 miles and all went well. Plugged in the power cord to the house. Everything works good. This morning, went out to put two slides in and...No 12V system. When I check the battery charge on the panel, it will show up for a brief second and then nothing. The electric tongue jack works fine but nothing else. When the 110 is hooked up, the batteries check fully charged. All the fuses I can see are good. I'm wondering if the converter is not switching over and need to know how to check it out.
Help would be appreciated.
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Sounds like possibility the resetable curcuit breaker by your battery.
Follow your positive battery cable it should lead to one of these.
It may or may not be resetable.
Btw this would be a great time to purchase a digital volt ohm meter for your camper.
Turbs
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06-08-2013, 09:40 AM
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#3
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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And furthermore your converter doesn't "switch" its either on or off depending on if you have shore power.
Did you check all 12 v fuses in the distribution center ?
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06-08-2013, 09:43 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 80
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Thanks. I'll go see if I can find a breaker by the battery and all the fuses I have in the converter are 15s, 1-7.5 and 2-40s.
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06-08-2013, 09:48 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,958
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The resettable breaker types like Turbo pointed out are usually bolted to the frame or such. Just follow the wires from your battery along your frame.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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06-08-2013, 10:15 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 80
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Found It
Okay. I found the the breaker you talked about, Turbo and it's not resetable that I can see. There are like, three wires running into and out of it. There are three 30A fuses right close to it and they are all okay. So if the guys that put the batteries on shorted the posts, then the breaker you're talking about has to be replaced?
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06-08-2013, 12:01 PM
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#7
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Be a good time to have a volt meter to check voltage !
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06-08-2013, 01:13 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 80
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No Luck
I think the breaker I found is a resettable. It's a 40A with a little black button on the end. I tried that and no luck. Pulled it and took it to an RV place(25 miles away) and was going to order another but the guy checked it and said it was good. I bought a volt/omn meter anyway, just got home and checked it myself and it's okay. I don't know where to go from here. I hate to pull the rig 25 miles to a dealer if it's a simple electrical problem but...Still looking for advice.
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06-08-2013, 01:22 PM
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#9
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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The jack works cause its direct power from battery.
Pull the distribution panel cover.
"2 screws" and see if you have any 12v power anywhere.
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06-08-2013, 01:31 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 80
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OK
Thanks for the help, Tubo. That's what I just did. I pulled the cover off the distribution panel and as soon as I eat a BiG MAN's TV Dinner, I'll be out with the new volt/ohm meter.
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06-08-2013, 01:35 PM
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#11
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyoman
Thanks for the help, Tubo. That's what I just did. I pulled the cover off the distribution panel and as soon as I eat a BiG MAN's TV Dinner, I'll be out with the new volt/ohm meter.
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Lol I've yet to be called tubo lol
Turds turns and now tubo !
All is well!
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06-08-2013, 03:17 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 80
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Well...I disconnected the battery cables and checked the terminals in the distribution center. It's putting out the 13.6 volts. I then reconnected the batteries and checked it to and through the breaker on the frame and the three fuses coming out of it. I don't know where to go from here.
Where's the next place to go?
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06-08-2013, 03:53 PM
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#13
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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What the heck are we missing here.......
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06-08-2013, 03:53 PM
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#14
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Do you have an electrical disconnect?
Under fridge in some cases a push pull lever ?
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06-08-2013, 04:25 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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Just to recap, and please verify these things:
If you plug into shore power, everything works fine.
If you aren't on shore power, only the directly-connected jack works.
If those things are true, Turbs has done a great job of checking everything and the only thing remaining (short of some hidden wire coming disconnected) is that you have a battery disconnect switch that they turned off at the dealer before you left and you don't know were it is to turn it back on.
I think I'll post over in the Rockwood area and see if someone will bite.
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06-08-2013, 04:32 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 80
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Bypass
I'm going to go bypass the disconnect switch. According to the RV people, there's nothing between it and the battery.
Thanks everyone and stand by! Please!
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06-08-2013, 04:38 PM
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#17
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyoman
I'm going to go bypass the disconnect switch. According to the RV people, there's nothing between it and the battery.
Thanks everyone and stand by! Please!
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On pins and needles !
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06-08-2013, 04:41 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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So you know where the bat-disconnect switch is. Someone on here complained the other day that they thought the switch should be "in" for ON instead of "out" for ON. You did try it in both positions didn't you?
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06-08-2013, 04:49 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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Where are you measuring voltages to? Perhaps the ground is open from Bat to frame. If you've been measuring from Bat Neg terminal all this time we'd have missed that.
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06-08-2013, 04:50 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 80
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I did try it in both positions by know it's supposed to be in to connect but on the chance that it might be a faulty switch, I just took it off and connected the two wires. Still nothing. I'll mention again that when I check the battery on the panel with only 12v, the bottom few lights will light up a fraction of a second then it's all dead again. I don't know if that's a result of having the 110AC on earlier but thought I'd mention it.
I reply to the last post by Barry: I measured the voltage from a postive to a screw on a metal junction box mounted on the frame. In the distribution box, I measured from negative to postive terminals.
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